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Guest Anonymous

Stainless.... Brass is too soft.

I dont use screws, I make my own eyes using stainless steel wire.

I make a fish eye bend, loop and twist the tag down to the bottom (thus making a screw) cut it off, screw it in with epoxy. Never had a failure.

Chip

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IMHO...it really depends on what you're using the hardware for. As a general rule, you need to make sure the screws are:

(1) not off-center

(2) Open eyes will be round after closing

(3) Have the smallest possible eye diameter (smaller = stronger)

(4) Will last..and

(5)...and if you're selling them..."look good" is important!

Most the lure companies and catalog folks buy their lure screws from a company called "HEB Manufacturing" in Vermont (no...I don't work for them...but they're great folks to deal with). They sell screw eyes, weed guards, etc. in bulk to most of the lure making supply shops and this used to be the company we bought our lure making supplies from for our shop too...

Once you get the hardware, there is also a science to the angle that you put the screw into the bait. Contrary to popular belief (and some popular books!) the screw is actually strongest when it goes in at an angle. If you make it perpendicular to the lure, it is weaker than if you it goes in at about 15 degrees off perpendicular...heading in the direction away from the line tie. If it is a tail screw, it should actually point down toward the belly about 15 degrees.

Hope that helps! Happy fishing!

- Erik

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I twist my screw eyes out of 180 lb test stainless steel leader wire (I think it's .029" dia) and use #2 split rings. How long? Any length screw eye you want to make. I personally don't like the commercial screw eyes because I end up bending the split ring getting it on/off that thicker wire. I think the #2 rings are the size most often found on medium bass baits. You can go down to #1 rings on small baits with #6 or #8 trebles if you like, and you can go up to #3's on big baits like Poe 400's, but I stick with the #2's 90% of the time.

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