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23 replies to this topic
Posted 07 February 2008 - 08:19 PM
Where do you guys get the foil you use on baits? I have looked at Hobby Lobby and Wally World, maybe I just missed it.
Posted 07 February 2008 - 08:28 PM
I use heavy duty renyolds wrap and just glue it on, also have used the foil duct tape from Lowes or Home Depot in the past.
Posted 07 February 2008 - 10:43 PM
that was one of the most comprehensive explanations of foil, to paint, to finish, I have ever read. Very helpful!
Posted 08 February 2008 - 09:13 AM
Great source Pete. Come to think of it, I've seen prezzy wrapping paper that would skin a lure nicely, from card shops, back in the UK.
Since I joined TU, a trip to the shopping mal has taken on new meaning. I see possible bait applications everywhere.
Posted 08 February 2008 - 09:15 AM
Candy makers foil works very well and comes in Gold or Silver. We have a cake and candy making supply store locally. A large pack of foil is very reasonable. Comes in differest sizes, I.E. 3" X 4", 4" X 4". I use a glue stick to adhere the foil to the bait. Coat both the bait and one side of the foil, then stick em together. I smooth it out with an exacto handle or something similar and then add the scale pattern with a knurling tool. Look at a ratchet handle in your toolbox. Any questions PM me.
Posted 08 February 2008 - 10:27 AM
candy foil works nicely. it's thin and malleable, yet strong enough to fit contours without tearing. you can find it at craft stores carrying food making supplies, such as Joanne's or Michael's.
Posted 08 February 2008 - 12:04 PM
Yes, mylar baloons are as good as anything else. I think it is stronger than the candy wrapping (which I like also) but the color combinations are endless.
Posted 08 February 2008 - 04:19 PM
I use foil duct tape it has adhesive on the back and works great..you can get it at any Home Depot, Menards, Ace, etc...MuskyRuss
Posted 08 February 2008 - 04:21 PM
I just use Wendy's hamburger wrappers... !!! Me and Mikey eat alot of hamburgers so we thought we should recycle!! Ok im lying but we do eat alot of hamburgers and I bet that wrapper would work!!!
Posted 09 February 2008 - 07:42 AM
We only got Burger King, White Castle, and Micky D... I don't thing paper or cardboard wrappers will cut it. But I've seen some your work since you hired a lure consultant and a lure analyst... a monkey, hummm, any ways, you could probable get paper or cardboard wrappers to work for you these days. Agree with Dean and Fatfingers, you ain't a rookie any more, what are gong to try to change to next???
Posted 09 February 2008 - 10:56 AM
Bruce, maybe you could do a tutorial on using the slider boxes from White Castle as a stencil
I miss those fresh gut bombs here in Florida!
Posted 10 February 2008 - 04:14 AM
How many hard baits have you seen me post to date??? Maybe, I could mash the cardboard in the first part of a two part epoxie then add the second part and add a through wire setup, then form it into a gluider for musky. Before it sets up, I could wrap two slider logos on the sides. After it is hard enough to use, I'd be curious to see if would actually catch anything. I guess a few thick coats of top coat and I'd have a "SliderGlider" Spike-A-Pike@Copyright 2008
Posted 12 February 2008 - 05:22 PM
Has anyone ever tried using a bag from snacks like Doritoes or other chips? Turn the bag inside out and it is just like foil, very reflective. Talk about recycling!
Posted 13 February 2008 - 05:48 AM
Kribman –I have been away and just catching up on all the posts. You asked “how to get the Mylar off the paper bags”. I just cut a square/rectangle the size I need (oversize) then get a small jar of mineral turps and keep I just for this. Quickly dip the Mylar into the turps and remove, dry off the paper backing, leave it for about 30 seconds and then you will find the Mylar can be peeled off – after you peel it off lay it flat on a cloth (shiny, face side down), with some sort of weight to keep it flat, as it will curl up as the different surface tension between the glued side and face side fight each other. The residue turps should dry in about 10 minutes and then you can use the Mylar.
The secret I have found when laying this stuff on a lure is DON’T use spray adhesive on the lure - spray adhesive leaves just that, spray marks, when the glue dries you get high spots where the adhesive has landed and low spots where it didn’t, this will show up on your finished lure. Instead of spray adhesive, I have been using plain old contact glue, which I reduce with turps @ about 5:1 so it is very fluid (mix well). I use my finger to spread this all over the lure in a thin even coat, don’t stuff around with it, just put an even coat all over, if you start trying to smooth it, it will create lumps etc. Because the glue is watered down it is very workable and shrinks quite a bit when dry to a semi-gloss even coat- let it dry for 12 hours (the longer the better). If you lay Mylar (or anything else) over the glue before it is dry you will get blisters where the glue is still trying to “gas off”, these will show as a blister on the finished lure and be a weak point in the finish.
The reason I like using the Mylar with the paper backing as opposed to chip wrappers etc, is they have already put the coating of contact on the Mylar for you, and if you read the directions for contact glue it says ‘You must coat both surfaces’. This is why you give the Mylar a quick dip in the turps and don’t soak it, or all the glue will be washed off. You should find when laying the Mylar, (if all the glue is dry) with glue on both surfaces, that it will stick like crap to a blanket, if you only glue the lure or the Mylar, bond is marginal and the Mylar cannot be stretched around bends etc. Just so happened I am half way through doing four 2" lures tonight, I'm going bream fishing in 3 weeks. pete