siebler_custom_baits Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 I have experience making plastics but am now getting a lee pot ( a step down from what im used to ) but want to make a senko type mold out of plaster. how well do these work? also do you have to use an injector with these molds ( senko, chunk, 2 piece) or am i ok with just the pot. does anyone have a 2 piece chunk trailer mold, if so do you like it? thanks, siebler custom baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 Judge for yourself. The worm in the forground is the penworm with grooves made with a soldering iron and recast again with plaster. Both smooth and segmented worms work as good as a Senko. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted November 25, 2003 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 WELL IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD BUT DO THE MOLDS LAST? SENKOSAM; how do your 2 piece molds stay fit together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senkosam Posted November 25, 2003 Report Share Posted November 25, 2003 While the plaster is setting up, place popsicle sticks (as shown) in the firm plaster. You only need 2" of embedded stick. Use vaseline to smear the sticks and entire top half of the mold, once the bottom half is solid and dry to the touch. (Depends on room humidity and water:plater ratio, but usually 1/2 hour is enough for the second pour.) Put strips of aluminum along both sides for fool proof separation of the halves. Pour the next 3/4" of plaster. Inset thin straight edge screw driver and turn. (The aluminun defines the edge of the halves.) Slowly work the parts apart ( the sticks will slide out of the top half slits and serve as an exact guide. In fact, only one stick is needed, but two are nice.) Coating the top surfaces of each half with Mod Podge, allows for a slick surface which prevents plaster from sticking to the plastic or vice versa. Using epoxy is permanent, but expensive. Using spray-on stone-sealer (craft or Home Depot) is the way I seal the mold. I always brush on some worm oil (Original Fish Formula - anise) into the cavities for a slick surface, every 3rd pour. I've poured over 100 lures from my first plaster mold made in 3/03 -(Senko copy) and occasionally recoat. It's nice to have fully rounded baits since a full profile may be seen better at different angles. (Angler preference, not the fish's, necessarily)! For smaller diameter worms, one part molds are fine and you may only want one textured side. You're the boss, you decide. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_hide Posted November 26, 2003 Report Share Posted November 26, 2003 I have about 20 or so two piece molds, only on one or two of them do you need an injector of some sort. Only really tiny little baits seem to cause me any grief. I just use the jans netcraft injector for 10 bucks , it does the job ampily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted December 9, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2003 I had many 1 piece molds but sold them on ebay. I have decided to pour trailers (for the jis i sell) and senko style baits on ebay. Thanks for all the help. also, if i want a different colored tail on a stick bait (senko) with a main color,(pumkinseed/chart) what is the best way to do this WITH A @ PIECE MOLD. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted January 1, 2004 Report Share Posted January 1, 2004 I have had great luck with 2 piece molds. I pour about 1" of plaster in a suitable container about 2" high. Place your pattern and 2 marbles ,(coated in a light film of Vaseline) down in it as soon as you pour it about half way down or a little more. Tap the container to get the bubbles out and flatten the plaster. After an hour or so you can remove the mold from the container and take out your pattern and the marbles. Let this dry for day or bake it for about 2 hours on a temp of 250 deg. before you finish the mold. You can sand this a little if need be to get it totally flat on a flat table with a full sheet of sandpaper. , Now put the pattern and marbles back in a coat everthing again with Vaseline along with the top part of the plaster that shows. Pour the other half of the mold and repeat the other steps but to not sand this half or your mold won't fit right anymore. Now you need to make a pour hole ( about 3/8" or larger or it blocks up before the mold is full)and a vent hole (1/16") in each of the cavities in the mold I have found if you put all the pour holes on one side and all the vent holes on the other then block up the mold about 1" on the pour side you get perfect baits every time. Your pour hole HAS to be the highest point in the mold. Here is a mold I made, however it has the pour holes on each end and I have to pour one side then turn it around to block up the other end to pour it. The marbles work great to line up the 1 halves and they just stay in the mold. If you look close at the top of the mold you can see the pour holes on each end and the small air vent holes towards the middle. The pour hole has to be on one end and the vent hole on the other. After I got all that done I put a light coat of fiberglass resin over the whole mold.(Note I tried Varathane and modge Podge first, They just didn't hold up, but the fiberglass resin works great) It makes it stronger and makes the baits come out really nice and shiny. Blocking the mold up on the pour hole side is the key thing to getting a great pour. Here is the finished baits out of this mold. Good luck and let me know if this works for ya. Got any questions just ask. Tnx Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassnG3 Posted January 1, 2004 Report Share Posted January 1, 2004 Fish-N-Fool do you lose any detail when coating your molds with the fiberglass resin? Do you thin it with anything and do you apply it with a brush? Just curious. Thanks and Happy New Year to all !! BassnG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted January 1, 2004 Report Share Posted January 1, 2004 Hey bassn, I have not noticed a loss of detail. I just heat a small amount up in the micro wave in a plastic cup then add hardener and brush it on. heating it thins it out some. make sure you use an old brush cuss I haven't found anything that will clean the resin out yet. I leave my bruch in paint thinner and it keeps it from getting hard to fast. so I can use it more then once. If someone knows of something that would thin the resin and clean the brushes, I would like to know about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicBob Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 Try alcohol for cleaning up unset epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattbell Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 I no longer use plaster since I forun Durhams water putty. It works the same as plaster but you don't need to coat it with anything and they are stronger molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercury Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 Hey Mat, I am going to try super plaster, (3x stronger than regular plaster) But never used the water putty. How long does it take you to make a mold from start to finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 Clean as much resin out of the brush as you can and then use lacqure thinner to finish up. I do this all the time when working with fiberglass in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattbell Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 The water putty works just like plaster. The time depends on how thick you mix it. You can get one done in a half hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassnG3 Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Mattbell, are you making two part molds out of the Durhams and if so are you making them similar to the way that Senkosam has illustrated? BassnG3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grab Bass Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 Fish-N-Fool ,hi,its GB from Riv. Sm. Starting to dabble in this stuff too.For brushes,go to Home Depot plumbing and buy acid brushes @ $.10 or less and toss them.No chems to mess with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzerr Posted January 12, 2004 Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 I guess I am lazy but the best Senko type 2 piece mold is on DelMarts web site. It is aluminum, you don't need an injector and the bait looks perfect. http://www.del-mart.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm Posted August 8, 2005 Report Share Posted August 8, 2005 acetone seems to work also for cleanup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass1cpr Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 Aceatone is what we use for fiberglass resin clean up of our brushes and tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siebler_custom_baits Posted August 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 dang this is an OLD subject Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
