rlcam

Paint description ????

7 posts in this topic

Maybe it's just me but I still have a little trouble with all the paint choices.Could someone here give a short description of the several types of paints.For example the differences between enamels,latex,lacquers,

acrylics,auto paints etc.What are they oils,waterbase,etc.Which ones can be mixed,what kinds of clears can be used with what paints.I am fairly new to this type of painting and so far I am using rattle cans,but would still like to know this for the can paints and for when I get an airbrush.I got a few pretty nice(I think) looking paint jobs from the cans ,I will post some pics in a few days.I'm not saying i'm good,but it's amazing how good they can look even from the cans if you take your time.

P.S.Thanks guys for supporting another addiction,my family thinks i'm crazy,all I talk about is plug making.Like Vodkaman said,going to the mall has taken on a new meaning,everything I look at is a potential color,stencil,or tool.

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Well, here's some info from Wikipedia: lacquer is a paint containing lacquer thinner and usually nitrocellulose (a wood product) with resins to provide flexibility. Acrylic latex is water based paint containing synthetic polymers like acrylic and vinyl acrylic as binders. It has no actual latex content. The more acrylic it has the better the paint and higher the price. Enamel is a generic term that nowadays means only "hard surface paint". It formerly was a term used to describe generic oil based paint but now there are water based "acylic enamels".

As to what primers/paints/clearcoats can be used in combination, it's a crap shoot unless you use matched products from one family of one manufacturer's coatings. You can largely avoid the issue by using epoxy as a waterproofer and a clearcoat (it is basically inert after curing) and sandwiching color between them. That lets you spray acrylic latex paint that contains no VOC's and has very few toxic effects. The other "school" of crankbait paint is lacquer based paints. They have a nice sheen and color quality that some prefer over acrylics, but of course you should wear a NIOSH approved face mask when spraying them. You have to experiment with solvent based coatings to see if they are compatible. It's not possible to tell from just reading the contents on the can. Typically, you need to use an extended drying time between solvent based coatings to allow all of the VOC's to evaporate before the next coating is applied.

IMO guys make crankbait paint harder than it has to be. I stick to epoxy or propionate for undercoats, acrylic for color, and Devcon 2T or Dick Nite polyurethane for clearcoat. It works for me and I don't have to worry about paint disasters very often.

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Lacquer based paints will go over water based fine, but will melt oil based paints like rattle can enamels. Lacquer thinner is a solvent for enamels, but not for water based paints, and Lacquer thinner is the carrier for lacquer paints.

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Thanks guys for the replies.Bobp,that was what I was needing.I tried to do what you done but didn't come up with the same.I guess it helps if you know how to use a computer:lol:.Also thanks Mark Poulson,maybe one day i'll get that airbrush and won't have to worry about it too much,but it's rattle cans for now.....Robert

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I use auto air paint for everything, but I really only paint jerckbaits. They have a ton of different color options. It is easy to work with, and easy to clean up. The auto air paint can be expensive though. Once I am finished painting the lure, I use FLex Coat Eplox. Make sure you use the LITE though.

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