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Utra deep divers
25 replies to this topic
Posted 16 February 2008 - 03:37 PM
My solution to this problem..... make a crank bait, that has a huge lip, out of solid lead.
Posted 17 February 2008 - 08:05 AM
I have to echo what BobP mentioned.......I fish a lot of deep brushpiles that are up to 30 ft. deep - - no way I'm going to try to get a sinking crankbait through that. The floating quality of a crankbait is also a big trigger for strikes.
Sometimes a crankbait will nail big fish out of these things when they won't even look at a jig or worm.
Posted 17 February 2008 - 03:02 PM
Rofish, could you go in depth about this x location? Is it the bottom hook hanger and the tow eye, rear hook hanger that makes up this x? Please explain. The cone shaped belly weight sounds like a really good idea.
Posted 17 February 2008 - 08:57 PM
You can most certainly build a crank to get down to 25 feet and still float. The trick is to use a long enough lip and make sure everything is balanced. That is all there is to it, no different than building a shallow crank. You will have to switch the line you normally use to a thin dia. braid. The real trick is being able to cast a 1oz bait far enough to get down to depth with 3+ inch long lip sticking out of the nose of your bait.
Posted 18 February 2008 - 02:31 PM
With all the input you have, I think you do not know what to believe.
Let me answer your question first. A crankbait wobbles (or wiggles?) from side to side. The imaginary lines which show the head to tail lines when the lure is maximum to the left and maximum to the right, form an “X”. The place which is best to place the weight is at the middle of the “X”, in order to avoid the swinging of the weight left-right to hamper the action (there is a lever there). This is not totally true (I usually put the weight in front of the belly hanger) but I will not elaborate.
This middle of the X becomes more important if you think to put more weight in a crankbait in order to make a sinking one. This is just my ideea, not something that I tested, that in such a case you should take care to put as much weight as possible (for a certain type of crankbait) in the place where the weight would have to rotate the least, and that’s exactly where the 2 lines of the “X” meet. That place is not necessarily the center of gravity of the bait.
Second ideea. I assume that the crankbait has only one belly hanger. The hook hanger and the hook are also weights, and if the belly hook wiggles over a longer distance (left-right), it will also hamper the action. So the best would be that the weight and the belly hanger would be placed at the same place. Some use belly hangers with weight to make their crankbaits.
The shape of the weight I was thinking of, is a cone, larger to the belly (for stability) and less towards the back of the lure. I hope you understand that I did not make such a lure yet, and perhaps I will never will, because I don’t have such deep lakes around my area. If I had, this would be the way I would try to make a sinking crankbait. It does not mean that a floating one could not be built this way. You just put less weight.
Now let’s get back to floating vs sinking crankbaits for your need.
Sinking crankbaits have, in my oppinion, at least 3 advantages over floating ones, as much as your deep lake fishing is concerned:
1)It can go as deep as the bottom of the lake. When you retrieve it, it will swim upwards, going through all the layers of water that can hold bass.
2)Even if you retrieve a sinking crankbait at a depth where a deep diver floating one can swim, the sinking one will swim at that depth over a longer distance
3)You can cast a sinking crankbait longer than a deep diver floating one, due to 2 reasons:
-as benton B has said, it is difficult to make a long lip cut through the air
-a sinking crankbait is heavier than water, compared to a floating one which is lighter
The advantages of floating crankbaits ove sinking ones have already been mentioned here.
If I were you, I would make or buy both types of cranks, and let the fishes decide.
But there might be another point of view about the right crankbait to use. You think that in order to catch the bass, it is necessary that you present a crankbait just in front of their nose, and they hang around at 25-35 ft (with all this help aimed at their possible death, I’m not sure anymore, maybe they got scared and you should try now at 200 ft+ ?). Sight is not the best sense that fishes have. But any vibration of the water is sensed by their lateral line, from a long distance. And fishes are curious. Maybe you do not want to have the right depth crank, but the right vibration crank. I attach a photo which I posted already on TU, with a crank that I tested with the lead glued to the belly (to find the right location for it). I think this one can easily go at about 10 ft. deep. It rises quite quickly to the surface. What is different at this one compared to my other crankbaits, apart depth, is that you need a considerable force to retrieve it, which could mean that it has a strong vibration. The lure has a very tight action.