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Posted 15 May 2008 - 07:53 PM
I know this is an old post but I thought the following info would be interesting to you all. The reason for wiping the epoxied lure down with alcohol is to remove something called amine blush. It is a waxy/oily/maybe even tacky substance that appears on the surface of epoxy after it cures. Alcohol removes it. Almost all epoxies get this. Only one or two brands of a specific marine epoxy do not get it. If you have got a good smooth level first coat you shoudnt need to sand....just wipe with alcohol before the 2nd coat. You can substitute with most any good solvent. You all seem to have the right habbits for sucess....I just thought you might want to know why it works............
I am not an epoxy expert......in fact I dont use it on my lures....but I did build a fiberglass over wood boat many years ago.
Posted 15 May 2008 - 10:07 PM
And all this time I thought I wasn't mixing it well enough.
Posted 16 May 2008 - 12:30 AM
In my short experience in coating baits, I've found that heating after applying my clear coating to the balsa (urethane in my case) creates tons of bubbles.
I hand turn my baits (for now) and have dried them in front of my space heater with horrible bubbly results that I end up sanding out. I like to dry them with no heat now.
I can also agree that blowing on the bubbles will Plaster of Paris them, but you have to be careful not to accidentally fling a drop of spit and ruin the finish all together
I've also successfully use a lighter for about 1/2 a second to Plaster of Paris some bubbles out of my urethane finishes. This doesn't work so well because you can't really control the heat direction coming off the lighter. I prefer the breath method.
Edited by Tacklejunky, 16 May 2008 - 12:32 AM.
Posted 16 May 2008 - 03:22 PM
To answer the earlier question about thinning Devcon, yes you can thin with various solvents. I've tried acetone, lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. All work but denatured alcohol works the best for me. It flashes out of the epoxy mix slowly enough that it extends the brushing time by a few minutes but when it's cured, the epoxy seems as glossy and hard as regular unthinned epoxy, to me at least. And it cures in about the same time as unthinned epoxy takes. I dip my brush in DA and shake A FEW DROPS into the mixed epoxy, then blend it in. Not too much! Now that we're coming up on summer, I'll mostly apply Devcon unthinned. I don't run a flame over epoxy to expel bubbles but I know some guys who turn out beautiful baits do so. I think the key is to use a flame sparingly and quickly. And it needs to be a clean flame, like you get with an alcohol burner. I just breathe on mine to Plaster of Paris the occasional bubble. I believe you can make this whole thing too complicated. My basic rule is: The more things you do to a bait, the more often you'll screw it up. KISS
Posted 23 May 2008 - 09:16 PM
Well what I have noticed in the last several batches where I was using D2T it really helped to be mixing for a small batch on the bottom outside of an aluminum can versus mixing in plastic measuring cups or paper.
I wipe out the bottom with acetone to remove the date and information and then add a couple drops of acetone to the epoxy before I stir. The aluminum doesn't seem to be affected by the acetone and it is smoother than the mixing cups I was using and allows me to stir the epoxy without generating the bubbles into the mix. Also right after I have mixed the epoxy I use the dryer on the epoxy itself before I ever start and it helps to remove the bubbles before they are stroked on the bait. I have been much happier with this approach, but it is for small batches.
Now if I would just quit knocking them off their holder and onto the floor / rug after I have applied the epoxy, which basically ruins them