oscarsteel

etex troubles

17 posts in this topic

What would cause etex not to harden? The first time I used it was 12 hours until I could touch it without any tackyness. I used it again yesterday and it is still tacky after 18 hours. I have a heater in a small room to keep it 80 degrees to speed set time. Can I recoat them if doesn't harden? Thanks

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Oscar.. I have been messing around with etex for the first time... it takes a long time to harden.. well that is what fatfingers told me.. I just did a few baits to give it a test run.. one took about 24 hours. if its not hard in 24 hours.. Try a different pill.... I mean mix!!!!!

The Rookie..

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Yes, you can recoat and the new coat will cause the soft coat to cure also. The most frequent causes (almost the ONLY causes) for epoxy not hardening are 1 - not mixing it thoroughly or leaving incompletely mixed epoxy in the pot and brushing it on the lure. This is the most prevalent problem. 2 - not measuring the two parts accurately. It doesn't have to be exact exact but you want to get very close. I use a piece of a credit card and mix the crap out of mine, disregarding bubbles. Sometimes it looks milky there's so much air in it. But if you use a good brush and work it properly, the bubbles will disappear as you apply it.

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Yes, you can recoat and the new coat will cause the soft coat to cure also. The most frequent causes (almost the ONLY causes) for epoxy not hardening are 1 - not mixing it thoroughly or leaving incompletely mixed epoxy in the pot and brushing it on the lure. This is the most prevalent problem. 2 - not measuring the two parts accurately. It doesn't have to be exact exact but you want to get very close. I use a piece of a credit card and mix the crap out of mine, disregarding bubbles. Sometimes it looks milky there's so much air in it. But if you use a good brush and work it properly, the bubbles will disappear as you apply it.

BobP is right, you have not mixed thouroughly or not done a 50/50 mix. The correct amounts are critical. Etex, as with all epoxies, is a chemical hardening process assisted by higher temps. I use syringes to measure so you always get the correct amounts. After mixing in the pot, transfer the contents to a second pot and mix again, this prevents contamination from unmixed epoxy or hardener that is stuck to the sides. Within 18 hrs it shound be curing nicely but it will be between 24 and 36 hrs before you should be thinking of removing from the drying wheel and will be (truth be known) around 72hrs before it will be fully cured.

philB

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I just had a similar problem w/ devcon 2 ton on my swimbait (icon). This was to be my 2nd and final coating and for one reason or another it is still tacky as well. I've experienced this problem once before and I try to make sure I do mix it quite thoroughly. So here is my question. Since 2 coats are no on the bait (and devcon is pretty thick) should I thin out the Devcon for the 3rd coating and then apply? Is this even worth trying? This bait has been problematic from the beginning... can't wait to make another one! ;)

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Problematic yes, but just look at how much you and I and just about everyone who reads this thread have learned. Can't wait for the next one!

Because the best solution was to remove the fins, this leads me to believe that IF vortices are in play, they are only active at the nose. If the vortices were active as they travelled along the body, then the fins would have helped, not hindered the movement.

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Problematic yes, but just look at how much you and I and just about everyone who reads this thread have learned. Can't wait for the next one!

Because the best solution was to remove the fins, this leads me to believe that IF vortices are in play, they are only active at the nose. If the vortices were active as they travelled along the body, then the fins would have helped, not hindered the movement.

Etex with fins and vortices, it's different anyway :huh:

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Yes, you can recoat and the new coat will cause the soft coat to cure also. The most frequent causes (almost the ONLY causes) for epoxy not hardening are 1 - not mixing it thoroughly or leaving incompletely mixed epoxy in the pot and brushing it on the lure. This is the most prevalent problem. 2 - not measuring the two parts accurately. It doesn't have to be exact exact but you want to get very close. I use a piece of a credit card and mix the crap out of mine, disregarding bubbles. Sometimes it looks milky there's so much air in it. But if you use a good brush and work it properly, the bubbles will disappear as you apply it.

Thanks Bob for the info. I mixed another batch of etex this time I used a bigger stick to mix with instead of a toothpick and made sure I had it mixed well. I could tell I had not mixed it well enough when looked in the cup I used for mixing. The center was rock hard and the outer edges are still tacky. Just like the baits. I have learned a lesson about etex the hard way.

Thanks to everyone for all your replys..........Oscar:)

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Problematic yes, but just look at how much you and I and just about everyone who reads this thread have learned. Can't wait for the next one!

Because the best solution was to remove the fins, this leads me to believe that IF vortices are in play, they are only active at the nose. If the vortices were active as they travelled along the body, then the fins would have helped, not hindered the movement.

What does this have to do the curing of e-tex?:yawn:

have you miss-posted or maybe sniffed the bottom of one to many Vodka bottles?:tipsy::sauced:

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There's one thing I don't like about epoxy on swimbaits or any other lure - it tends to draw away from any sharp edge during the cure process. It LOOKS fine initially but a little use quickly shows the weakness. Best cure = round off all the sharp edges or find another clearcoat. This really came home to me on some crankbaits I made with carved detailing but it applies across the board - for instance, at the tail hook hanger on wood crankbaits.

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BobP- have you made any flat sided cranks and had the same experience? I did my first bait with etex the other night, and the "edgeds" are considerably thinner than the sides and top/bottom. Other than that, I was pretty satisfied with the results.

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i make a flat sided crank. I've been turning them in a drill gun, squeeze clamped at the slowest revolution possible (~1revolution per 4 seconds). I'm using devcon, the finish is perfect. I do 2 coats but one coat is good enough if the bait is covered adequately.

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Bemidjibasser, I make mostly flat sided cranks but that doesn't mean sharp edged shoulders or bellies - I round them off so it looks natural and isn't a problem with epoxy. It's like that Gorton fish commercial on TV when the crew hauls in a net full of square fish: "Now that just ain't natural".

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Wow that was strange, I guess I miss-posted. Only discovered it now as I am behind on my reading. Sorry for any confusion.

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If Vodkaman can explain vortex's while drinking or smelling vodka for that matter,he is a better man than I.I barley can spell it and I am sober as a judge.Don't know if judge was a good example though...Robert

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