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spray on clear coat
16 replies to this topic
Posted 10 March 2008 - 05:32 PM
Has anyone found a good spray-on clear coat? I am wanting to find a spray-on clear for my swimbaits and was hoping to find something like an auto-clear that's tough.
Posted 10 March 2008 - 05:39 PM
Jed, there are numerous high solids urethane clears that will work, they are all expensive! With limited shelf life once opened. PPG and Dupont are most likely easier to find here.
Just about all the major automotive paint manufactures have an high quality clear.
Posted 10 March 2008 - 06:25 PM
Look at "spar Urethane". You can find it at Home Depot. It comes in spray cans or dip cans. It is definitly not epoxy but it is the toughest spray on I have found. It takes about 5 coats to get a good finish.
Posted 10 March 2008 - 06:44 PM
The 2-part clears are designed to be sprayed. The best method for applying to lures would be with a detail gun, conventional or hvlp will work. However with conventional guns the paint is atomized more which translate to slicker finish. A conventional gun uses more material than a hvlp which don't shoot clear as slick. You will need a good full face respirator and a booth capable of dispatching with the fumes and overspray.
Posted 10 March 2008 - 07:50 PM
I currently spray D.N.'s topcoat with my airbrush.I thin it a little with high quality lacquer thinner and and spray light coats rotating between lures. About 5 coats works pretty well for me, sometimes waiting 24 hours and spraying 2 or 3 more thin coats. I've had pretty good results so far, and almost eliminated the use of my lure turner. Just be sure to thoroughly clean your gun immediately after you finish.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 06:26 AM
automotive clears do not yellow. they also do not allow flex. they sure are clear though.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 09:36 AM
I have been using Omni Clear for about 3 years. You can not follow the mixing directions or the clear will be to hard. It is very clear but thin so you would have to apply 3 to 4 coats. The issue I see with this is the flex that you would need. If this stuff flexes it will crack all over. Just my opinion. I have been looking for a better clear to use on crankbait with out buying epoxy.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 01:13 PM
I tried Minwax spray on urathane and it failed on me. I put about 10 coats on as well. First dunk in the drink I had a swell crack. Just my experience though.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 06:30 PM
If you are talking about a clear to go over your paint-that is after you have sealed primed and painted the lure try a couple fo automotive clears-
UPOL-this is in a gold can, you can find it on ebay
Sherwin Williams Cut In-this is in a white can. If you have a SW store near you this is easy to obtain.
Each of these are $8-$12 can. They spray fine coats. You will need multiple coats for a better finish. These are good easy quick options, but NOT as sturdy as an epoxy clear like devcon or etex or mirror coat and it will wear off fairly easily if you are going for musky or dragging over rocks.
Drop by a body shop and see if they have any cans of cut in (generic term-not the SW product though they may have it). If they have some ask to buy a can of it and see if it does what you want it to do.
Posted 11 March 2008 - 08:25 PM
Get yourselves some MSDS sheets on ANY clear you get, especially the Urethane clears. Is is NOT to be played around with, and really shouldn't be sold to inexperienced people like us. They contain icocyanates, not sure on the spelling, but look it up. It's deadly, is absorbed in through lungs, nose, even your SKIN, and no, just gloves are not enough. It's tough stuff to handle. If I am not mistaken, there is even some in Dick Nite, at least according to the definition of Polyurethane according to Wikipedia
Use what you want, but please protect yourself, I don't claim to be completely safe, but I try, as I need to be around to finish watching my kids grow up, and you should too.
Posted 12 March 2008 - 07:35 PM
I am experimenting with three different clear coats. A spar urethane made by minwax, an expensive acrylic clearcoat from an auto detail shop, and Rustoleum lacquer. I have applied three coats thus far and like the spar urethane the best....it's clear and looks thick and if it hardens up good it should be fine.
Posted 13 March 2008 - 06:19 AM
Let me know how they turn out. I am looking for a new clear coat to use. I am using a Automotive clear right now. It is PPG Omni. But it seems to work but it just does not have the depth to it that I want. So please keep me posted on the spar. Thanks
Posted 13 March 2008 - 10:29 AM
The safest and best clear coat you can use is some kind of brush on epoxy. Fumes are minimal, and results are outstanding.
One coat is usually enough, but most put two.
The only drawback is the lure must be turned after coating, until the epoxy sets. With Devcon 2 ton, which I haven't tried yet, I've read that it needs to be turned anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, depending on the temperature of your drying area.
For Envirotex, which I have used, it takes 8 to 12 hours to
set, and 24 hours before you can handle it.
But you won't cough up a lung, or wind up with cancer, as long as you use both in an open, ventilated area.
I like the longer working time with Envirotex, since I make jointed baits, and it's a bear getting the epoxy into all the little recesses when I'm doing five or six at a time. I don't think I could manage that in 20 minutes.
But I did just order some Devcon 2 ton to see if I can coat the insides of the joints first with 2 ton, and then coat the rest of the lure with Envirotex after the joints are already coated.