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Boskabouter

Devcon 2-ton vs. Zap Z-poxy 30 min.

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Well, obviously nobody has tried it! What makes Devcon Two Ton a good clearcoat is that it levels out very well after you brush it on, and it cures crystal clear. Why not try the Z-poxy as a sealer and see how it does? If it levels and is clear, it should work fine. If not, you've got the sealer on there anyway. Sand it smooth and look for another clearcoat.

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D2T doesn't require thinning at temps above 70 degrees but you can add A FEW DROPS of denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner in cooler temps. Stir it in after you mix the 2 parts. I generally use denatured alcohol because it flashes out of the epoxy a little slower, extending the brushing time. I also use a 50/50 mix of D2T/DN for waterproofing/sealing. The Etex (Envirotex Lite) is an epoxy formulated to refinish table tops and comes with some solvent in it. It's much thinner than straight D2T. Buy it at home centers or at Michael's Crafts in 2 8oz bottles for around $12. Personally, I like the D2T because it will cure in 6-8 hrs even when thinned while the Etex takes considerably longer.

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Bob,

I use Etex to top coat my jointed lures. I was thinking about using 2 ton to coat the joints first, as this is always a problem when I do it at the same time as the rest of the lure.

Do you know if I will have any problems with Etex bonding to or delaminating from 2 ton?

I'd use Etex for the joints in a separate operation, but it take soooo long to set. At least, with the 2 ton, I think I could do the joints, and then coat the baits the same day when it has set.

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There may be different chemistries used in the hardeners but I haven't heard of epoxies that were incompatible, so I think it's an excellent bet it would work. You could probably coat with D2T and then use Etex an hour later, just after the D2T was past the "spin cycle".

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