Please Help, Im Going Crazy
15 replies to this topic
Posted 16 March 2008 - 03:08 PM
I finally got my compressor working so I could finally paint my first lure. I heard hear that createx paint works the best ,so Igot pink florecent paint and green opaque to paint my rainbow trout . the green paint whent on completely fine, but when I added the pink it came out so watery it ran right off the bait. I have a water trap that works so It cant be thatso I thought I just got a bad can of paint so I bought transparent orange and the same thing happened.Can I only use opaque colers and nothing else, and If so where can I buy them because every where I go they almost only have transparent and florecent. So any advice please, I want to be apart of lure making addiction but evey time I try to make one somthing goes wrong:mad:
Posted 16 March 2008 - 03:14 PM
Transparent colours should work as well as opaque.
Did you thin them and if so how much?
Posted 16 March 2008 - 03:15 PM
I get my paint at hobby lobby you can but it in a set of opaque or in just the bottles
Posted 16 March 2008 - 03:43 PM
Idid not thinn the colors at all I bought them and used them
Posted 16 March 2008 - 04:05 PM
I have never used this stuff, but it may be the first coat is slightly glossy. You could give it a light coat of 'artists fixative' to matte it down, then colors should stick. Maybe you did not mix properly and the matte base/binder, in the paint is still on the bottom of the container, which happens with paint sitting on shelves in the shop for months. I know how you feel, these little problems drive you nuts. Also fluros are best painted over white. Hope there is a solution here . pete
Posted 16 March 2008 - 04:29 PM
I use 2K auto acrylic's but also use createx now and then. I find the water based createx very odd at times and completely different to the 2K paints that I love. From my experience you cannot lay createx down on anything but a matte base coat otherwise it just runs off also you need to build it up with several layers before you will see any coverage. I have heard it said on many occasions on this board about guys using createx straight from the bottle, well, I think it must be a different createx to mine as I have to thin at least 50% before I can shoot. Try thinning with Windex it will assist in breaking the surface tension of the paint.
Hazmail is dead right with the floro paint, it must be over a matt white base otherwise you are wasting your time with it. Are you using a dual action airbrush ?? If you are try cutting down the paint flow a little as I suspect you are shooting too much paint in one go. Also it would be worth cleaning the receiving surface in case there are any contaminants present that may hinder adhesion of the paint.
Dont despair as it will happen in the end we all learn from our mistakes . By the way createx paints are not the be all and end all of airbrush compatible paints, a lot of guys here swear by them but myself I am not impressed with their performance but they do have the advantage of being a 'healthier' paint.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 05:25 PM
I buy mine at a local paint supplier who deals in all types of paints and will supply me with small amounts. Do a Google search and you will find a wealth of info on 2K's, they are now standard paints in the auto industry. Bear in mind though the safety precautions needed with these paints. I am sure there will be a supplier very close to you. The ones I use are manufactured by 'Mipa' a German company. Have a look at some of the auto custom paint web sites to see why 2K acrylics lend themselves well to lure decor.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 05:45 PM
Try backing off on your air pressure when you shoot transparents. I shoot the transparent orange between 10-12psi. I shoot one light layer then hit it with the heat gun and just build it up one layer at a time until its the way I want it.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 05:53 PM
You may be looking for a while, Phil's local supplier is in Leeds, UK. Save yourself some time and did a site search automotive paint. Mind the safety precautions and invest in a good respirator... you only get two lungs and one brain.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 05:55 PM
warm the bait slightly after the first coat is dry. water bases run less, in my opinion
Posted 16 March 2008 - 06:47 PM
A really easy one might be did you shake the paint really well before you used it? Sometimes, some colors sit on the store shelf long enough to have the pigment settle to the bottom, and you have to shake it for a half a minute or so. If you have some copper or stainless steel bb's , drop a couple into the plastic bottle as agitators.
Did you heat set the first coat? Heat setting with a hair dryer not only dries the first coat quickly, it will warm the bait for the second coat, as recommended here.
Also, as suggested, use less air. If you have a single action air brush, turn the regulator down to 10-15lbs for transparents and test how it sprays. If you have a dual action, adjust the air flow restricter (mine is at the end of my brush opposite the spray nozzle) down so the trigger can't be depressed as far and the amount of air/paint is reduced. Test the spray on something white to see how it looks.
I spray transparents all the time, and don't really have a problem.
I sometimes have trouble with paint running if I have too much air flow too close to the lure, so the paint builds too much and the air pushes it around while it's still wet.
When that happens, I quickly and gently wipe off the runny paint, and move adjust the air flow and move back a bit from the lure. You can also just do multiple light coats, hair drying between coats.
You should heat set between each coat, anyway. You don't want any water trapped under the final topcoat, or it will fail.
If I'm trying to do a fine detail, no small feat in my case, I adjust my dual action brush so the air flow is just enough to spray paint, and play with the distance on my spray board before I try again.
P.S. If you're just starting, stick with water based paints. Sovent based paints may be more versatile, but there are really for experienced painters who have all the necessary safety equipment. There are so many health risks with the solvents that it's just not worth it for a beginner.
Stay with water based until you're good with the airbrush, and then build a vented spray booth, buy a good respirator with a charcoal cartridge rated for the solvents you want to spray, and then have at it!
Good luck. And don't dispair. It really isn't that hard. And everyone makes mistakes.
My mistakes have given the paint manufacturers their profit margins for the year.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 08:59 PM
I too shoot with Createx transparents and can only really ditto what Mark said. Once you make certain mistakes enough in this area you'll get the "feel" of the paint coming out of the brush. I am by no means an expert and the attached pics are of my third session & third attempt at these colors. To start out, I played around with 3 color jobs and some scaling. I tried to paint at least 5 or 6 plugs at a time in different schemes to get some decent practice in. Stick with it, if I can halfway do it anyone can! Both of these paint jobs were applied to a Lucky Craft RC 1.5, without a primer coat, directly to the factory paint job by the way. A risk gone ok I guess...
TU Homepage - Luremakers Photo Gallery - Third Attempt
TU Homepage - Luremakers Photo Gallery - Third Attempt
Good Luck...you're at the right place to learn. There are some guys on here that will blow your mind...I'm still trying to pick up what's left of mine.
One piece of advice, when you use the Opaque Black...thin it 1:1 with water. You will be really surprised at the difference it makes.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 11:51 PM
I use Createx transparent all the time and haven't had any problem. Are you shooting too much to make it opaque? Are you holding the brush too close to the surface? Are you thinning it with something? (I don't). Are you laying down a white color basecoat before adding your colors? (I do).
Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:33 AM
Sounds like you were shooting too much paint with too much air pressure. With transp and flor. paints you have to shoot very thin layers and build up to the level of color you want. I've done that same thing 100 times, it's part of the learning curve.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 08:54 AM
Totally agree with this statement.
Also,what i do is imerse the bottle of transparent in a cup of warm water.
My shop is in the basement and its winter.
Also,seeing that you might just be starting this hobby,slam on the brakes and take it slow.
You will learn little tricks over time.
Nothing worse than getting frustrated.