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justwannafish

Another D2T question

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I've searched and found a lot of information on Devcon 2T. A lot of what I read will really help. My question is: How forgiving is D2T in terms of mixing ratio? I use the twin syringe type dispenser and can tell that both sides do not dispense equally. If I put a teaspoon of each out to mix can I just trust the portions that come out of the syringes or do I have to be more exact? :?

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Let's just assume I'm going to get shutdown for this, but I've found (so far) that as long as they look relatively close to the same amounts they cure well. With that said I always watch when they're coming out and make sure that there appears to be the same amount coming from both tubes. If you mix it on the bottom of a pop can instead of a small cup you can also compare the two separate piles before mixing. Hope this helps! If I'm completely off-base somebody correct me for justwannafish and my sake's.

Mike

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Thanks for the help.

Last night I clear coated my first lure with the D2T and looked at it this morning and very happy with the results. The lure isn't the masterpiece that a lot of guys are able to produce but for my first lure I was happy with it. I'll put a second coat on tonight and next week I 'll see if it still floats like it did before I painted it.

Who cares if this one catches fish - I'm just happy it resembles a fishing lure :yeah:

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I agree with you Bob that 2 coats on the final finish can tend to be overkill even with musky lures. I tend to use it when I am not happy with the original final coat.

On the other hand I have become a really big fan of using a pre-coat on bare wood before painting. There are three advantages that this provides:

1) Since epoxy forms an excellent bond with bare wood, using it as a pre-coat layer I think goes a long way to protect the lure from hook rash. Even if the hook gouges through the epoxy, you still have a very good bond in the surrounding area that will prevent water from penetrating along the surface and larger chunks from separating from the lure.

2) You can test the lure before final finish. If you need to do something different with weighting, you can do so withouth compromising your finish.

3) During final finish, the precoat eliminates the tendency for air bubbles to form which allows me to use some heat and flash off the small bubbles in the epoxy. The heat really allows the epoxy to flow and level and gloss up nicely with no bubbles. Basically you get through the bubble stage during the pre coat process which seals everythign off before you get to the final stages. This is a big plus!

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I put a second coat on for a couple reasons,

1) After the first layer cured I noticed a couple spots that didn't get covered

2) This is my first lure and I don't know what I'm doing.

I am going after muskie but, to be honest, that didn't factor into the second coat.

Yake, I am going to pre-coat my next lure tonight with D2T. As you mentioned this will allow me to see how it swims before I spend much time painting it.

It's been said before by a lot of other guys but I'll say it, too. Thanks to all for all the information that is posted at this site. I am amazed at how my first lure turned out. I couldn't have possibly done it without the all the wisdom I found on TU. My work doesn't come close to some of the stuff I see here but it's a lot more than I expected. :yay:

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