Tman2

repair lure

10 posts in this topic

I have a lure that I bought a few years ago, and after only a couple of uses (with no fish), the front 'bill' came out. I believe it would be made of expanding foam, as it's not wood. I actually sent the company an email with pics (no reply), and even tried to switch out with a new one (they don't seem to carry this specific one any more).

Any ideas on how to fix? Screws pulled straight out leaving nothing for them to 'bite'.

IMG_6164.jpg

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I am not familiar at all with foam, but I guess that if the screws could stay in place for some time, they would be surely safer if you would put them in place using epoxy. You could even put some epoxy between the bill and the body (after sanding a little what can be sanded there).

Others may have better ideas.

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you could try epoxying some thing into the holes then the screws have something to bite into,but to be honest as the line tie's on the bill i wouldn't trust it and would throw it away,maybe use the bill to make your own version with 2 hook's instead of 3

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woodie might be on the right track, JB Weld has a new product called Water Weld that is the marine version of JB Weld J-B Weld Company - WATER WELD Product Information

I know first hand regular JB Weld does a good job if taking care of cracks in aluminum boats and fuel tanks; you can file, sand, and grind it after it cures. The Water Weld is supposed to be the same only better with fiberglass and foam, it also cures in water.

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I'm with Bezyb. Three tiny screws to carry the load of a world record bass and all the fame and fortune that goes along with such a feat! I would be nervous about even a good contact surface. Lots of big surface for leverage. Any rocky bumps on that lip will be directly attacking the integrity of your joint.

For peace of mind, I would give it a load bearing test. Hang a bucket of water off it for 24hrs. If it survives, you can relax.

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You can't tell because there is no size reference, but it's a muskie lure. I think I paid 8 or 9 bucks! Now that I look at it, I do think the chances of those screws holding were slim. I like your idea for 'stress test'. Since I have the epoxy, I think I'll try loading the holes and screw threads with it, and re-inserting into the holes. Then the stress test.

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Adding small amts of gorilla glue into the rear of the holes and if possible upsize the screws. Possibly consider tapping a couple new holes in the bib also.

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I would consider increasing the sizes of the screw-holes and epoxying some harder material into the bait such as some short dowel pieces, and then epoxying the screws, or some larger screws into the wood... one thing about it, you have nothing to lose here, and I would want to have 100% confidence in it when I set the hook on a muskie.

Dean

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How about drilling two more holes through the lip , in a way , that you would get three holes in a row in the center of it . Then close the now unused sideward holes in the lurebody as suggested below , the top hole of the row you might deal with accordingly to Dean McClain's suggestion .

Into the two new holes you could set in new screws in new pilot holes , probably you 'll find better ones with a deeper thread for better grip .

Into the center hole and especially into the bottom hole you might also place longer screws , there is space enough all the way through the center of the lurebody , off course you should epoxy them as stated below . I have made such lures before , but the whole affair stands or falls with the density of the material of the lurebody , so don't leave out the waterbucket-test .

Good success with anything you're up to , diemai

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