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Posted 12 April 2008 - 11:35 PM
Today I tried to foil a bait using mylar foil, instead of the duct foil or aluminum foil. Since it doesn't have the metallic bending and contour-retaining properties of either of those, I found it was MUCH more difficult to glue to the bait and smooth down. I used Elmer's spray on glue (same as I use with aluminum foil with no problems) but just couldn't get it to smooth down. It's a mess. I would like to figure it out, though, because the foil comes in several different colors from Hobby Lobby.
I know a few other guys use mylar foils. Help a poor dummy out?
Posted 13 April 2008 - 12:17 AM
I recently tried some Mylar from a "space blanket". I glued it with contact cement, the kind used for Formica countertops and it worked OK. You want a thin layer of glue. I brushed it on then wiped most of it off with a finger.
Posted 13 April 2008 - 12:50 AM
All foils have inherent limitations; some have more than others.
Holographic foils don't seem to have that little bit of stretch to them like the furnace foil does. You'll have to account for that when choosing which surface of the bait you'd like to place them upon. Rounder surfaces are going to be problematic.
Posted 13 April 2008 - 10:37 AM
I had the same problems using foil which is not made out of metal. Once you bend a metal foil, it will stay so. This is very helpful when you cover round surfaces in metal foil. When wrinkles inevitably appear, you can "fold" them down and smooth them, even though they do not have glue on the upper surface of the foil. You simply cannot do this with foil which is not metallic. The Mylar can be used on flat surfaces, because the contact cement will keep it on the surface.
I wanted to answer the post written by Hazmail, which was indicated by Vman, but missed the opportunity. I will do it now.
Hazmail, I have used both contact glue (I hope we are talking about the same kind of glue here) and spray adhesive (which I finally bought in another country). Both have "tricks" which you need to learn, in order to have the best results. When working with spray adhesive, keep in mind one thing: when you think you have put enough glue on the bait, it is already too much. I also had the problem with glue not "landing" evenly on the surface. When I saw that the first layer of thinned epoxy, as topcoat, was very uneven, I thought I was unable to remove the air bubbles from the epoxy. It was only after a long period of time that I realized the air bubbles were not the culprit (since they did not exist in the topcoat). The culprit in this case was the spray glue. I solved this problem this way: immediately after spraying the lure body or the foil, I wipe the body or the foil with the edge of a little piece of printing paper. This way, the surface of the glue will be even, and very thin.
BopP says the same thing referring to contact cement
Posted 13 April 2008 - 05:04 PM
Rofish- yes it has to be a very thin coat of glue, and yours sounds like a good solution- I just wet my finger in mineral turpentine and quickly wipe it over. Like you say, it does not need much of an uneven surface to show up on top, and I have not completely solved it- dust appears to be another, even the finest speck shows through the mylar.
I have been able to persuade mylar to cover curves on 3" lures, it just needs good glue on both surfaces and time/patience to stretch it. pete
8 DAYS TO CLINTON
Edited by hazmail, 13 April 2008 - 05:05 PM.
Posted 14 April 2008 - 04:54 AM
Hazmail, nice to know you have managed to "trick" mylar foil into covering round surfaces. After a failure, I did not try it anymore. I think I am being too lazy.
But since it can be done, I think I will try it again. You know how crankbait makers are ...