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New to making my own lures, gotta few questions
9 replies to this topic
Posted 28 April 2008 - 10:12 PM
A buddy and I are going to make a 4" and 6" jointed swimbait, it will be slender. What is the easiest wood to get a hold of and the most durable wood to use? What type of paint do most people use? If I want to make a mold of the fish I am going to imitate could I do it and how? Any help would be greatly appreciated I am trying to record all of my steps and try to use it as a project for one of my classes at school. Thanks
Posted 28 April 2008 - 10:19 PM
I can't be a lot of help here, as I haven't made a swimbait and am relatively new to the whole game as well, but try using the search feature. Up at the top right corner of your screen, you should find lots of information on the numerous topics you mentioned. If you can't find something more specific ask it, I'm sure someone here knows.
Good luck! It'll start as a school project (or in my case a bet) and end as an addiction. Welcome to the support group.
Posted 28 April 2008 - 10:19 PM
Not an expert by any means however I personally use basswood and get it locally from a wood source shop. Its not that expensive and really pretty easy to carve. For paints I use createx airbrush paint. I personally seal the bait with a mixture of denatured alcohol and devcon 2ton epoxy....paint then do 1 more coat of devcon 2ton (not mixed).
As for molding I dont see why you couldnt take a fish and make a mold using something like Plaster of Paris.
Hope some of this helps. Make sure to use the search options as there is a TON! of information already on here.
Posted 29 April 2008 - 02:40 AM
I would use CEDAR!!! if your going to fish it... but that is what I like.. Its hard and easier to carve than most HARDWOODS!! IT FLOATS GOOD TOO!!! but if your just plain carvin and molding start with balsa.. easy to carve..
I would use Emron paint... you will not have to clear coat it.... IT WILL LAST LONGER THAN YOU IF YOU breath the fumes!!
Posted 29 April 2008 - 03:55 AM
From what I have read, lipless swimbaits can be a bit hit and miss. My suggestion is to accept that some testing and adjusting will be necessary. Do your carving quick and rough for the first one and seal it against water, NO PAINT or finish. Fit your ballast and hook hanger and swim it.
At this stage report back with pics, whether you have a problem or not as we would like to whitness your progress. If you have a problem, there are a whole bunch of guys here that are ready to help you out. Great project and welcome to TU.
Posted 29 April 2008 - 03:20 PM
Find a swimbait that you like, and start by copying it, to learn how. Then you can make your own designs using the knowledge you've gained by imitating a successful lure.
Posted 29 April 2008 - 09:10 PM
Yeah I am in a way trying to rig it like a Triple Trout but here is the thing I can't figure out about that lure (and I don't want to take it apart) is how does he weight the lure and how are those hooks rigged on there? I am using bass wood right now just to do my initial lures, what wood do yall recommend for actually using the lure and not having to add too much weight to it? These pictures are just of the initial lure we just made it today so give me any opinions there is about a 4" and the 6" version
Posted 29 April 2008 - 09:37 PM
I make a 4 piece swimbait that my partner named the QT, for Quatro Trout.
I weight it with a weighted hook hanger ( 9grams) in the first and third sections, as far back in each section as I can go without running into the hinge cotter pins.
For floaters, I only add a little more weight in front of the head section hook hanger. I test float the lure after I've installed the hook hangers and hinges and treble hooks. I can pinch more weight onto the hooks to get the lure to hang level in the water.
I allow 3 grams for paint and epoxy.
For slow sink, I weight the unpainted lure until it has about 1/4" out of the water before paint.
For faster sink, I just add more weight, usually in the second section, again toward the rear. I never add weight to the fourth, tail section.
Don't waste time painting anything, other than sealing the lures, until you've worked out the weighting. That process includes casting it to see how it swims. Good paint jobs and top coating takes a long time.
If you do go too far and your lure doesn't work the way you want after you've painted and top coated it, don't be afraid to drill out some of the weight, patch the holes with light filler and epoxy, and test it again.
Don't be discouraged. If I can do it, anyone can.
P.S. Four sections swim much better than three.
Edited by mark poulson, 29 April 2008 - 09:38 PM.
Posted 30 April 2008 - 01:34 AM
Once you add the top coat and hooks, it will swim different again. But this time you will at least be close to the solution. A few more minor adjustments and you'll be ready for the mass production run.
Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:01 AM
Mark has said it all. Just test as you go. I keep a tall bucket of water handy to keep check on the floation especially as I am adding ballast. Usually I will tape pre-weighed pieces of lead to bottom of bait before drilling the holes for it and test float it first. This way the weight can be moved to best location.