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Whats a good paint to airbrush on propionate plastic sealer

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#1 claye75


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Posted 30 April 2008 - 08:33 PM


#2 LaPala


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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:25 PM

Let me answer you with a question too ;)

Prop after you dip and cure coats the lure with a layer of plastic (prop), what paint is good for plastic?

#3 Palmetto Balsa

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Posted 01 May 2008 - 11:29 PM

Any paints will cover the plastic or propionate, but is there one that is better than the others?
I have seen some that fail and separate because they don't bond to the base and each other as they are applied.
Others that fail because they never cure or dry all the way. This might happen when paint types are mixed. Enamel then lacquer then water based then lacquer or some mixed up order. Paints will wrinkle and peal when different types are mixed also.
Use a paint that will etch into each prior layer and bond as it dries. The solvents in lacquer paints will allow each new layer to bond to itself to make one strong, solid layer with little chance of failure because of a scratch by the hooks or teeth.

To open up this discussion I will say... I don't feel that water based paints are up to the task when painting lures for fishing. Once the epoxy topcoat is breached it will take just a short time fishing for the entire paint job to peal off. Water based and epoxy will make some beautiful lures for display.

#4 mark poulson

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Posted 02 May 2008 - 07:45 AM

You're right about it being layers that aren't bonded, so it is prone to delamination, especially at the joints which are constantly banging against themselves, but I've found that rounding the edges of the joints, and taking my time in coating the joints before I assemble the lure and coat the faces makes them pretty durable.
I use Createx and Etex over wood swimbaits, and for crank repaints.
I've found that the type of wood I use, and how well it's sealed before I paint it, has a lot to do with how it reacts after a break in the epoxy. I use mainly poplar now, and seal with two coats of Minwax polyacrylic, sanded between coats and after the second. Then I prime with Krylon white primer.
After I've finished my scaling, including shading and any other major paint applications, I spray on a layer of pastel clear fixative. Then I add details like fins, gills, and eyes, and finally top coat with Etex.
I think that for my larger wood baits, this combination works really well.
I like the fact that the Etex stays somewhat flexible, so that it can deal with the expansion of the wood underneath when it gets hot. I've had lacquered balsa baits that bubble and blister from the heat.
I fish mainly for largemouth and smallmouth, with the occasional striper eating my lure, so I don't get much damage from toothy critters. Most of the damage I get is from overthrows, where I've introduced one to the rocks. Even then, if it's bad, I just retire the lure for the day and let it dry out, then touch up the bad spots with a brush, and some D2T, and it's ready to fish again. Of course, the topcoat winds up feeling like a bad case of acne, but the fish don't seem to mind.
I even use brush on crazy glue for on the water fixes of small defects, and it's fine. I just make sure it's set before I get it wet again, or it turns white.

Edited by mark poulson, 02 May 2008 - 07:58 AM.