@ FERG DADDY
Allright , this is something to talk about :
Your lure does not dive deeper , since the angle of the lip (is it made of aluminium ?) is very steep , rather more like a wake bait .
It has the tight action , that you mentioned(I suppose , it does not wobble strong enough for your taste) , mainly because of the heigth to width ratio of its body , second issue about that is the relatively small lip .
If you would have made your lure maybe halfway thicker and into an rather oval cross-section , it would have had a better wiggle , since that oval shape would provide a better roll against the water as this rather flat body .
Obviously the lure is thru-wired , so you cannot alter the towpoint anymore , but placed rather more down at the chin towards the bill , it would surely have caused a better action .
Since the wobbling action is poor , I don't think , that added weights would help , but on a short term you could still try it (suppose , your lure still has a lot of buoancy , since it does not go down deep ?) .
Allright , try taping some weight(leadshot , rolled leadsheet , etc....) onto the outside of it and try it in a bathtube , swimming pool , shallow bank , etc....) .
Try the spot between bill and first hookhanger , but I think , in this case weight on the back of the lure would do better , since it makes it unstable to tend to capsize , so maybe this would provide a sufficient wobble . Try different weights and locations . If the weight-testing should work out , you must embed the weights into the body and repaint .
Off course such only works , when the internal wire form is not disturbing .
If you somehow have a chance to pull out the lip again , you should also try this , but only when the weighting thing failed . Make the lip about almost halfway longer and wider , its base end (root) a little narrower than width of lure , the other end should be fully rounded .
This would not increase the diving depth a lot(in my point of view not absolutely neccessary for a gift lure , since there are shallow and deepwater fishing situations alike , paramount is the action) , but a bigger lip would surely also cause the lure to roll and wobble more !
Another option is , though the most elaborate , to shave the lip(if you are unable to remove it)back flush to body outline and then make another lip slot :
Draw a pencil line sideward onto the nose portion , leading from the tow eye to the rear eye , than draw another line from the spot , where the bill enters the lures belly , to hit the first line 90° . Now mark a third line through the spot , where the two previous lines meet towards the chin , to divide this 90° angle into halves .
Your new lipslot to furnish must be on this third line , or slightly behind it , but parallel , so it would sit in about 45° to the centeraxis of lure .
Hopefully you can cut it yet deep enough , due to the internal harness .
Make a new lip about sized as described previously , fix it temporary(maybe with little wooden wedges) and test again for action .
When making a lexan lip , you might also glue it in right from the start , since with some eyeballing you could easily minor its size on a power sander , if neccessary , a metal lip would be better to remove to re-size .
This lip configuration would surely make your lure swim deeper and wiggle more !
Allright , FERG , all I can say in brief for you to tinker on your lure , in every case you ought to repaint and reseal , no way to leave this out !
For your next lure bear in mind to try first as described previously(with all hardware rigged) , and tune it , when neccessary , prior to painting , saves you from extra work !
Just apply one or two clearcoats of ordinary clear laquer , just to prevent water sepage on your blank whilst testing, you may sand it off or at least roughen it up for better bond of the final paint coats later !
One more thing.........: welcome at TU
! Greetz , diemai