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Crackled paint

37 posts in this topic

agrifola

Thanks a million for the tip. That is great. I've been wanting to get that effetct fro some time not.

Very much appreciated

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that swirl lure is amazing... so model paint works. do you wait between dips or does the water get squeezed off/out by the paint drying?

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you can do the base coat with lacquer. then apply crackle . let sit 45 minutes. then apply a water based color over. remember to let cure after the coats and the next day epoxy the bait. it holds fine.

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Several variables exist when crackling paint. Don't expect that a specific brand of crackle medium, or a specific top paint, or a specific set of procedures will "get it done" until you put them all together and try them!

The first variable is your crackle medium procedure. I spray the base color and then brush on the crackle medium. When I tried spraying it, I got crackle medium filaments all over my work bench that looked exactly like spider webs! If you give it some swirls while brushing it on, that will also affect the crackle pattern.

The 2nd variable is when/how you dry the crackle medium and color top coat. The instructions say let the medium dry, then apply the top color and let it dry. That may work, but I got zero crackling with the medium and paint I used. For maximum crackle, I brushed on the medium, then immediately sprayed the top color and dried them both at the same time with a hair dryer. That allowed me to get both sides of the lure roughly similar, which was a big plus. The drier the crackle medium is before you paint it, the finer the crackle pattern will be. At least that's true for the brand of acrylic crackle medium I bought!

The last variable is the specific brand/color of top paint. Some brands/colors of paint will crackle much more than others. It's a function of the specific formulation of the paint and I can't predict how a particular shot of paint will crackle until I've tried it.

Bottom line: It's not as simple as buying a particular brand of crackle medium! And you thought it would be straightforward and easy:roll:

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We did several crackle/ WCC finish rods years ago. It is both do-able and durable, though it requires some trial and error with both technique and product (s). Finding a compatible, light, yet strong, flexible clear took some searching.

Good luck.

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I've seen multicolor swirl/feathering jobs on split grip rods so think crackle might be possible - but hard to control over the whole length of a rod. Besides, as the rod tapers, the crackle effect would have less and less visual impact. I only have experience with acrylic latex crackle and you might want to investigate other types to get better adhesion. Like Kellure says, you'll have to clearcoat the whole shebang which will add quite a bit of weight to the blank. And like other rod finishes, it would be subject to lots of stress, flex, and marring. I'm a strictly functional rod guy and am always looking to put LESS stuff on a rod, especially one where I paid $200 to get the lightest and most refined rod blank available!

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Bob is correct about losing much of the visual detail as you head towards the tip of the blank. It was a nice effect however on the lower third to half of the blank, especially with a contrasting paint on the upper third...re: clear, after sampling multiple clears, I believe it was U-40 (aka Permagloss) that we discovered to offer the best qualities that we were after.

Edited by kellure

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What a coincidence.LOL Permagloss is exactly what I was thinking of using for the clear. In fact I have the brand new bottle sitting in front of me that just came in today. I am going to do a few with full length marbling, and then I thought I may try to do some this way, but thought I would ask first. I have a bunch of pieces laying around to play with first to get the bugs out and see what the best way to do it will be. Any other words of warning before I dive in would be appreciated.

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