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36 replies to this topic
Posted 09 June 2008 - 01:44 PM
What I have is FolkArt under $2 at Hobbby Lobby. 4 oz bottle #695
Don't worry how the crackle coat looks. It is not a clear coat like the final Devcon.
You're going to cover over it ant that layer of paint will crack.
It;s made for acrylic paint not vinyl or lacquer.
BJ's got - just give it about 15 minutes then spray the second color.
Posted 09 June 2008 - 01:50 PM
When I started with the Crackle thing I was trying to work out a way to paint baits like JAMAL does with all the mixed color swirls. Does anyone know how that is done? He hasn't decided to share the secret yet, but someone here will figure it out I'm sure.
I thought the crackle would work well for crayfish looking baits, but would love to see other ideas.
Posted 10 June 2008 - 09:35 AM
Swirl paint effect. What i do is i cut the top off a 2 liter bottle fill it with water then drip enamel paint on the surface 2 or 3 colors then stir the colors together and dip in the lure and twist it on the way out.This one i dipped multiple times
Posted 10 June 2008 - 10:04 AM
That is really creative! A fascinating paint job.
How'd you ever think of a method like that? I'm jealous.
Posted 10 June 2008 - 10:13 AM
Thanks a million for the tip. That is great. I've been wanting to get that effetct fro some time not.
Very much appreciated
Posted 13 June 2008 - 09:38 AM
Here are two that were recently done.......... Thanks DUCBOS
Posted 29 November 2008 - 07:07 PM
Can this crackle effect be achieved with acrylic laquer? I have tried everything and am not getting satisfactory results. thanks
Posted 29 November 2008 - 09:19 PM
that swirl lure is amazing... so model paint works. do you wait between dips or does the water get squeezed off/out by the paint drying?
Posted 30 November 2008 - 01:54 PM
you can do the base coat with lacquer. then apply crackle . let sit 45 minutes. then apply a water based color over. remember to let cure after the coats and the next day epoxy the bait. it holds fine.
Posted 02 December 2008 - 01:17 PM
Several variables exist when crackling paint. Don't expect that a specific brand of crackle medium, or a specific top paint, or a specific set of procedures will "get it done" until you put them all together and try them!
The first variable is your crackle medium procedure. I spray the base color and then brush on the crackle medium. When I tried spraying it, I got crackle medium filaments all over my work bench that looked exactly like spider webs! If you give it some swirls while brushing it on, that will also affect the crackle pattern.
The 2nd variable is when/how you dry the crackle medium and color top coat. The instructions say let the medium dry, then apply the top color and let it dry. That may work, but I got zero crackling with the medium and paint I used. For maximum crackle, I brushed on the medium, then immediately sprayed the top color and dried them both at the same time with a hair dryer. That allowed me to get both sides of the lure roughly similar, which was a big plus. The drier the crackle medium is before you paint it, the finer the crackle pattern will be. At least that's true for the brand of acrylic crackle medium I bought!
The last variable is the specific brand/color of top paint. Some brands/colors of paint will crackle much more than others. It's a function of the specific formulation of the paint and I can't predict how a particular shot of paint will crackle until I've tried it.
Bottom line: It's not as simple as buying a particular brand of crackle medium! And you thought it would be straightforward and easy:roll:
Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:49 PM
I am thinking about attempting this type of a finish the entire length of a fishing rod. Do you think it would be possible?
Posted 02 December 2008 - 08:03 PM
We did several crackle/ WCC finish rods years ago. It is both do-able and durable, though it requires some trial and error with both technique and product (s). Finding a compatible, light, yet strong, flexible clear took some searching.
Posted 03 December 2008 - 01:02 AM
I've seen multicolor swirl/feathering jobs on split grip rods so think crackle might be possible - but hard to control over the whole length of a rod. Besides, as the rod tapers, the crackle effect would have less and less visual impact. I only have experience with acrylic latex crackle and you might want to investigate other types to get better adhesion. Like Kellure says, you'll have to clearcoat the whole shebang which will add quite a bit of weight to the blank. And like other rod finishes, it would be subject to lots of stress, flex, and marring. I'm a strictly functional rod guy and am always looking to put LESS stuff on a rod, especially one where I paid $200 to get the lightest and most refined rod blank available!
Posted 03 December 2008 - 10:01 AM
Bob is correct about losing much of the visual detail as you head towards the tip of the blank. It was a nice effect however on the lower third to half of the blank, especially with a contrasting paint on the upper third...re: clear, after sampling multiple clears, I believe it was U-40 (aka Permagloss) that we discovered to offer the best qualities that we were after.
Edited by kellure, 03 December 2008 - 10:23 AM.
Posted 03 December 2008 - 04:53 PM
What a coincidence.LOL Permagloss is exactly what I was thinking of using for the clear. In fact I have the brand new bottle sitting in front of me that just came in today. I am going to do a few with full length marbling, and then I thought I may try to do some this way, but thought I would ask first. I have a bunch of pieces laying around to play with first to get the bugs out and see what the best way to do it will be. Any other words of warning before I dive in would be appreciated.