Mr.J.

Share an eye screw tip please?

20 posts in this topic

I just put some eye screws into a new batch of lures.

I'm 45 years old and my eyes are starting to show their age, it's hard to focus up close and my reading glasses sure do help.

Now I eye ball the alignment of my eye screws. There's got to be a better way.

If anyone is feeling generous today would you then please share any tips you might have for ligning up eye screws?

Many thanks in advance.

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What type of bait are you talking about?? When I make a bait I always drill the eyescrew holes in the blanks before I make them into lures as everything is centered then. Hope this helps and if not please let me know. I will try again. ken

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I use a wheeled marking guage to mark the center around the whole bait then drill my holes.

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I guess I should have been a bit more clear.

Yes they are pre-drilled holes.

I'm trying to line them up so that when you look down the bait they are in line and straight and not off.

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I use a calliper. The baits I make generally all have flat sides, so this makes it pretty simple. Measure the width, and divide it in halk and mark with an awl. This also provides a pilot for the screw to start in.

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I always know where the centerline of the bait is because I scribe one on all my baits as soon as I cut out the blanks, while they're still "square". Then, there's no question about where any of the hangers, ballast, or the line tie should be drilled. I measure the width and mark a center, then use a compass mounting a pencil lead to scribe the line. If I suspect it isn't exact, scribe from both sides to make sure. The centerline also serves as an index when contouring the baits. I'll also scribe sanding guides on the sides of the blanks. Keeps things straight and symetrical. My baits would be pretty lopsided without it.

Edited by BobP

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I also work same way like BobP , I only draw these pencil lines on the lures freehand after eyesight , got along well with it so far !

If you mark your sawed out blank this way , also make marker lines on one side of blank to indicate the direction of your eyescrews , you might accurately place the pilot holes with a drillpress at this stage already by fixing your blank in a machine vise to drill .

The outer shaping of lure is done afterwards , according to the pencil lines , just like BobP mentioned .

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try useing a fence on your drill press with you bait. Slide you bait on your fence the holes will always line up.

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Guys, his problem isn't drilling the holes, he said he pre drills the lures. His issue is screwing in the eyes and having them line up with the centerline when they are screwed in. I don't have an answer to that, but I bet someone does.

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I think it is just something that you will need to eye ball.

One of the tricks some will use is to line it up in a mirror. Have a mirror set up 90 degrees to your work surface. Place the lure body on its back in front of the mirror and have the nose eye touching the mirror. While you can still adjust the eyes, look down the bait from the tail to nose and see if it lines up and if it doesn't then make the needed adjustments.

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All the above are good solutions.

If I were making large numbers to sell, I would be making a drill jig for the job. Of course, you still have the problem of drilling the holes in the jig square! But once made, the drilling operation would take just a few seconds and no tedious guessing.

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There is sone great tips and advice here, many thanks...but Smokey is right. The eye screws are straight and true on the bait by pre drilling but it is after the hand operation of actualy screwing in the eyes and making sure they line up.

I bet the mirror would would but then that means I would be seeing my ugly face at the same time too. YUK!

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Sorry Smokey, I missed your post somehow. Profiled clamp jaws to clamp the eyes. This would keep them traight.

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Hey vodka, what do you mean by profiled clamp jaws? Do you have a picture? I am lacking when it comes to tool terminology.

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After I cut out the square blank, I sand it with a disc/belt sander. using the table at exactly 90 degrees, and sanding a little from the other side as well, so there are no small pieces of wood hanging out from the edges, and I am sure that the angle is exactly 90 degrees. Now I would scribe the center line as BobP said, but always from both sides, and I think it is better if you have 2 lines, very close to each other, so you know that the center line is between these 2 lines. Using a very sharp kind of nail and a small hammer, I mark (I make a small hole) for every eye and for the ballast. For the ballast hole, I use 4 drilling bits, increasing the diameter.

Then I scribe some other lines which would help in shaping the lure.

And even if I work so precisely, I can still see that after I glue in the wire eyes, they are not always aligned. But I can easily correct this with pliers.

So may I suggest that instead of screw eyes you use wire eyes? You can use the diameter you need and the length you need. You are not constrained by the diameters and lengths you can find for the screw eyes. Not to mention the price.

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I made a quick CAD model to explain the profile clamp. It is self explanatory. The whole could be placed in a regular vice or bolted together.

Another idea based on the same method: Next time you jig-saw your lure body, start and finish from the top. Keep the scrap, this is your profile plate. The eyes can be clamped to this plate using sprung clamps or similar.

Edited by Vodkaman

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Wow vodka, that illustration is definitely self explanatory! Thats a great idea. Constantly amazed at the ingenuity on this site.

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This is a pic of the second profile clamp idea.

Edited by Vodkaman

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