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looking for purple prism baits-or purp/foil
12 replies to this topic
Posted 13 June 2008 - 07:34 PM
The area I fish gets trolled with alot of baits that are purple prism, in color(thundersticks,reef runners). Was wondering if any of you hardbait making guys make anything similar to that? Looking for something diff to troll by the walleye. Was looking for something on the order of a hot n tot or the rapala dt. Looked in the picture gallery and saw some foil covered baits that look nice.
Posted 13 June 2008 - 10:30 PM
Are you looking for a source of the purple prism material or someone to build you some purple prism hard baits? There are some nice foil covered lures and there are a few builders that use mylar which has a great look. Good luck.
Posted 14 June 2008 - 04:46 AM
And Pete's the builder that came to mind... What's new down under?
Posted 14 June 2008 - 05:10 AM
Hey Bruce - Been working on some shelving in the shed, trying to make some of the junk disappear, and some of the benches to reappear- and buying that boat, I have to drive 1500 miles to pick it up this week, I think.
I Have not painted or shaped, a piece of wood since my return, and wont until I tidy up the shed, I'm embarrassed after seeing Gene and Vince's 'operations' - ask Coley??pete
Posted 14 June 2008 - 06:24 AM
Pete - It sounds like you really logged some miles while you were state-side too. Cuttem' Jack said he got a visit by you and Vince and had a blast with the meeting; I know it really cheered him up to talk lure making, fishing, and other "guy stuff". By the by, Mark said he's back to normal shoes again or will be as soon as they fit again. He's been getting a little musky fishing and spending some quality time with his son and father.
Pikeman - sorry about hijacking your thread, but Pete really is a heck of a nice guy and if your going to attempt any mylar lures, I know Pete will be right there to lend you advice.
Posted 14 June 2008 - 09:56 AM
Not looking to make any just wanted to buy something different than what everyone else is using out on the lake. The purple prism colored baits work good so was looking for something similar in color, like a foil with purple back and something that would dive down to at least ten ft when trolled like a hot n tot or rapala dt. So if anyone has anything like that I would be interested in buying a few. Can't make my own I'm a spinnerbait man, mostly fish for pike.
Posted 14 June 2008 - 03:05 PM
Pikie- these are only 80mm long and with tat lip , would only go to about 6 -8'. With the lip reversed, they go to 15'. pete
Posted 14 June 2008 - 03:13 PM
Didn't you do a tutorial post on foiling with mylar a while back?
I can't find it, and am drooling once again over your lures, turning green with envy (not beer).
Posted 14 June 2008 - 03:58 PM
Mark -I did not do a tute on it, it's a bit fiddly holding a contact glued piece of mylar, and a camera at the same time, if you know what I mean!! But I think I may have posted something, I will have a look today (your tonight). pete
Posted 15 June 2008 - 12:31 AM
I have already posted something like this, but could not find it, so done another, more comprehensive one.
I have tried to foiling (Mylar) solid 3” lures and I found it very difficult, as they are hard to handle, glue up and foil, without fouling the glue etc. So I have been splitting the lures and doing a side at a time (to split, see tute: ‘Through Wire Construction’).
First, if you can get the Mylar gift bags (I find these the best) they already have glue on the Mylar, so this saves a lot of fiddling around. To get the Mylar off the paper backing, just give it a QUICK dip in some mineral turpentine and remove, dry excess off, with a tissue, and you should be able to gently peel it off (only do as much as you will immediately use). When you have your sheet of Mylar off, face down/glue up, weight it with some wire rods, as it will not curl up when the glue starts to dry again. The quicker you dip it, the more glue will release with the Mylar sheet and not the backing. Put aside and LET IT DRY.
Place the lure halves on a flat surface, with a bit of Glad Wrap under them, if the halves still have panel pins in them, all the better, because you can force these into the backing to steady them (I use a cork block). The lure halves must be sealed or primed and sanded smooth, what you have underneath the Mylar will show through the finished Mylar, this includes dust specks, so make sure they are sealed first.
As all contact glue (I have used) says, you have to “GLUE BOTH SURFACES, AND LET DRY”, so you need to apply contact to the lure body also.
Get some contact glue (green snotty stuff - not spray) and place enough to coat both lure halves on a sheet of plastic or glass, then add mineral turpentine, to thin it down (about 4:1) to a watery liquid (use this so it does not flash too quickly). Now, either paint glue onto lure or use your finder and apply EVENLY and THIN to lure halves (working quickly), making sure you work right to the edges. If the glue is thinned enough, it will not drag when you are applying it and will feel very slippery – if it starts to drag, dilute it a bit more.
When all is good and evenly coated, cover the blanks and Mylar with something to stop dust settling on it and let it dry - DRY for 12-24 hours, as, if there is still solvent in the glue it will gas off and blister the sheet when the lure is top coated.
Now the hard part - Sticking the Mylar to the lure. –
Clean your hands and lay a piece of Mylar on the side of the lure at the highest point of the side (which would usually be the flattest part of it). Watch out, because it will grab it, so closely align it before you place it. Stretch and smooth along the flat portion, working from the centre out to the edge of the flat, work out any wrinkles (if wrinkled, try and lift it and stretch it out). Now pull the Mylar toward the crest on the back centre, and lay it against the glue, it should grab and stay there – work along the lure, from top centre to back, and then, centre to front, don’t be afraid to pull and stretch it (it’s a bit like upholstering a chair). Next do the same on the bottom, going centre bottom to back and front, look for wrinkles and try and lift it an stretch them out – when you’re happy smooth the whole lot out with a soft cloth and heaps of pressure. Where two curves meet, you may get an overlap of Mylar – make a cut along the fold and overlap so there is coverage and trim off waste – be careful when cut as it will easily tear. Do the same to the other side, check the edges to make sure they are glued, then lightly sand the flat (joint side), and edge, to trim off excess Mylar. Mix up some D2T and glue together, making sure there is heaps of glue so it fills the joint. Sparingly, wipe off excess glue, with some alcohol, put it aside and let it set on a wheel if you have one, so the glue does not run out. The rest is up to you. pete
Posted 15 June 2008 - 01:57 AM
Could I convert your process (above) into yet another TU Member Submitted Tutorial for our knowledge base? I think I can do a good job. Let me know.
Posted 15 June 2008 - 02:32 AM
No worries Bruce, and it will spare me having to one finger type it again. Thanks again, for that pete