swimbait , very first attempt
, Jun 15 2008 06:42 PM
183 replies to this topic
Posted 17 July 2008 - 01:02 AM
@ mark poulson
Yeah , so true , women and girls know strange and subtle ways to get through and to follow their intentions:wink:
, men most likely can't get behind it , until they're hooked .
I know this from my wife and daughter as well:lol:
, just sweet-talking to me with a certain glance and smile......"my dear daddy... do you know.......?"
And soon my wallet is empty , and I won't even be angry:lol:
Alright , I have just connected my swimbait and rigged it onto a jig , that I made years ago to paint jointed baits .
The rectangular wood dowel has to be rather slim to maintain good access for brush painting and/or spraying .
To prevent it from falling on its side , one can fix spring-loaded clamps(carpenter's clamps work as well , but not as easy to handle) onto one or either end of the dowel
The lure is put under tension by a looped piece of cord(this one here is supposed for kite flying) , that is twisted and locked with a piece of wire onto the front eyescrew .
This way the blank sits reasonably rigid , enough for my painting purposes
Now , that the lure is fixed this way , I could furnish the final painting , the blending of colors and the color transitions from section to section would surely turn out better , as if painting the sections one by one , as I did for the initial paint coats:wink: .
Greetz , Dieter
PS: utilized a piece of cardboard for the pics for better visibility , in case , one might wonder what this is for on my workbench
Posted 17 July 2008 - 04:31 AM
Hi , folks
Well , my little "carp" by now is slowly evolving , in fact this kind of painting is very time consuming , but its great fun to me , would have loved to proceed , but lateshift's waiting again
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 17 July 2008 - 07:15 AM
Nice job. Clever paint rack.
Can't wait to see it finished.
Posted 17 July 2008 - 12:36 PM
They say that patience is a virtue. Diemai, you are a very virtuous person! Good looking paint job. Are you sure you are not an artist?
Keep up with the good work.
Posted 17 July 2008 - 01:24 PM
that paint job looks awesome!!!
cant wait to see when its done!
Posted 17 July 2008 - 04:55 PM
Thank you guys for your kind words:worship: , but I am also a little surprised myself , that it turned out quite well so far(especially the blending tones of the body)
But I would never call myself an artist
, I am just someone that ever liked to create something with his own hands
Too bad , I don't think , that I could proceed with painting tomorrow morning , my wife intends to go somewhere and wants me around , so no time for my workshop before work
Maybe only one hour , but I won't spend it on this bait , can't afford to rush to continue with a neat job , since THIS time I gotta trick Murphy
, I know , that he won't sleep !
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 18 July 2008 - 05:51 PM
Hi , folks
Still managed to get to my workshop for a little while before work , so I could not help it to paint some more details onto my lure:) !
Now I am in trouble about deciding on a pair of stick-on ,- or painted eyes for my little "carp"
Painted ones would surely fit better to the paint style , but I am scared not to get them as round shaped as neccessary to look good:huh: .
I would still have to think over it , probably I should use stick-on eyes , but paint a blending peripher around them
Greetz , Dieter
Edited by diemai, 18 July 2008 - 05:56 PM.
add of text
Posted 19 July 2008 - 09:53 AM
I think you made the best paint job among the ones that do not care about the paint job.
But there's something else I want to tell you.
I think you have chosen the most difficult to make joint system. It has the advantage of concealing the joints, but I think it has a big disadvantage: the constant friction between the wire (or screw eye) and the next section.
I think that this friction (which would surely ruin the clearcoat and paint, letting the water penetrate the wood) could be counteracted by adding washers, so that the screw eyes would lay on the washers, not on the clearcoat. This would surely add some weight to the lure, which is already weighted, but the only difference would be that the lure would sink a little faster. In case you agree, I recommend that you make the washers (not buy them, because these might be thicker than needed) out of SS metal sheet, with the thickness of, let's say, 0,5 mm.
Posted 19 July 2008 - 03:12 PM
It's true , the most elaborate one , that I ever made:yes: , but I guess , it is part of the intention of such swimbaits to be looking as realistic as possible , and since my my first rattle can job failed , I just had to proceed this way , since I don't intend to use an airbrush .
On ordinary crankbaits or topwater lures I might not do it , but I must admit , that I came to like this paint style , so maybe in future a little less lures made but painted thorougly...........
I made those hinges after mark poulsons describtions , since I do not have any experience with swimbaits , this is my first:yes: !
But I saw many lures rigged this way , have already also seen descriptions , but I don't remember any mentioning washers at your suggested locations .
Though your concerns are truly considerable , I'll risk it to go without washers at first , and if it is only to learn more about swimbaits .
If the finish should get spoiled by that certain abrasion , caused by the constant movements of the hinges , I could always disassemble the lure without any problem(Thanks to Mark
)and re-coat .
In this case I would off course rig washers , but I really want to see first , wether such would really happen and in which extend ?
It would be too late now to put 0,5 mm washers anyway , would have had to consider about it when cutting the hinge slots , but , if neccessary , I could make such washers also only 0,1 mm or maybe even only 0,05 mm thick !
Provided , that I get sufficient brass or even SST foil at my work , some times I see such on the scrabyard , but so far I never bothered about it:huh: !
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 20 July 2008 - 08:31 AM
I don't make lures to sell, so I don't have to make them bullet proof.
I haven't really notice a problem with the epoxy failing in the hinge joints too much. I coat the insides of the joints separately, and then coat the rest of the lure.
I have run into the hinge joints sticking when the lure lands funny on a cast, like the two epoxied faces bind.
I've found that, if I shoot a little fish attractant on the joints before I throw them, they free right up, and I don't have that problem. It doesn't hurt the epoxy, and adds a little scent to the lures. Like the guy said in the movie Evolution just before the proctologist went in to retrieve an alien insect that had gotten into his body,
"There's always time for lubricant!".
Posted 27 July 2008 - 01:41 PM
Though Murphy did not quite leave me alone on the final run again:( , I am now done with my first swimbait attempt and I like it !
Haven't yet field-tested it , since I like to have the topcoats cured for a few days before exposal to water .
The hinge pins now sit very tight in their bores , had to push them in with quite a force under constant turning , but I did not have to drill the bores free from epoxy , not too much had entered whilst topcoating a few layers of epoxy and two-component clear gloss .
But still the little pieces of electricity cable insulation securig the pins are fixed with a drop of superglue .
After I had glued in the bristle fins with two-component glue , I have found some spots in their fitting grooves been uncovered with glue , so I decided to have some of my two-component clear paint flown into those gaps to seal off the entire bond properly:wink: .
So well , after I had applied a good share of that clear paint with a brush and laid the sections aside to dry , Murphy joined the game to have me find the wet paint "climbing" upward inbetween the bristles
As I noticed this , instantly it came to my mind , that decades ago in school I had heard about a physical effect like this , but it was too late , the bristles got partly stuck to one another
The dorsal fin got affected more , the tail fin only has some bristles at its bottom bonded half length , I am hoping , that it won't affect the swimming action too much , can't wait to test the lure coming week
Finally I would like to thank all the guys involved here on TU
for their support and assistance , my special gratitude goes to mark poulson:worship: !
This was definately not my one and only swimbait , a new idea is already on my mind(smaller bait with different hinges)..............
Thanks all:worship: , greetz , Dieter
Posted 27 July 2008 - 01:43 PM
So well , here are two more close-ups of the detacheable hinge pin affair !
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 27 July 2008 - 09:18 PM
It looks great!
The pleasure has been mine.
It's been a lot of fun sharing your lure making experience.
Thanks for taking the time and trouble to keep us all involved and up to date.
Take insurance out on that carp. Some pike is going to KILL IT!!!
Posted 28 July 2008 - 07:07 AM
Diemai, looks fabulous. Hope it swims as well as it looks. Hope the largest pike around also thinks it looks good.
Posted 28 July 2008 - 12:15 PM
that bait looks VERY nice!
i was suprised at the range of movement you were able to get by using that style of joint. i will be using that style on my next bait for sure!
be sure to let us know how that bad boy swims!
Posted 28 July 2008 - 12:26 PM
One test I've found works to figure out how loose to make your joints is to assemble the lure, and then see how far it bends. If it doesn't easily bend at least to 90 degrees, it's not going to swim worth beans.
Posted 28 July 2008 - 07:04 PM
diemai the bait looks great. Im following right behind you on making my first swimbait and I hope mine looks as good as yours.
Posted 29 July 2008 - 12:37 AM
@ jamie , @ captsully18
Thanks a lot for your kind words and support , guys
I am also hoping , that local pike would like my work , too !
But presently the fishing has been extraordinary slow:( , the best time is still going to come in fall(gonna have three weeks off then !) , and this is the time , I am usually switching lures in my tacklebox to the bigger , heavier and deeper running ones , so this little carp is gonna be amongst those as well for sure
@ mark poulson
I have read about that 90° rule on a German site even before I got here on TU
There was a link to some TU
swimbait videos there , if my memory serves me right .
I've clicked it , and so.......here I am
The degree of movement of that hinge style depends on how the corresponding edges of two sections(no matter wether concave/convex or angled)engage , but the joints play is also easy to adjust by twisting the screweyes more or less in/out !
I guess , that I'd still continue this thread during the coming weeks , 'cause there is another swimbait idea on my mind:? !
I intend to try my hand on such a wire coil hinged bait , like I posted a pic in here previously .
I am thinking over and sketching on it every day at work , I think , that it could be possible to build a three-section bait around or even less than 4" length this way , so this is what I chose for my challenge(but also I must put another idea to test about a topwater bait that can Plaster of Paris and also "walk-the-dog" in one retrieve).
Until then , Dieter
Posted 30 July 2008 - 05:13 AM
Hi , folks
It just urged me this morning to try out making those small wire coil hinges , that were on my mind for days now
It went on pretty fine , finacky job though , but manageable .
My goal is to build a three section bait up to 4" in length to also have an appeal on smaller predators like perch , asp and zander(walleye) .
This brief sketch here(not the lure-sketch , just to explain my intention) still shows a little longer lure(4 1/2") , but I guess by shortening the wire arms of the hinges I could still gain space for a smaller lure .
So , my idea is , to make that lure out of reasonably sturdy light wood like abache or pine , the wire arms of the hinges will be epoxied into the bores , after the lure sections have been entirely finished and topcoated .
To accomplish this finacky task , I'd have to somehow bind the two hinge parts in a straight position temporary , and glue them first into one section , after curing into the other !
I am thinking about plastic tape or pressing toothpick points into the female hinge part to bind the bail inside .
For shaping and painting the lure sections in a connected condition I am planning on sticking them together with wooden or plastic tubing pins , that are inserted temporary into the hinge bores
If the bores of two opposing sections should not come sit quite flush , it would surely be possible to heat up the plastic tubing pins with a lighter and then kink the temporary softened tubing a little offset , so that it would fit the two opposing bores , even when they are not quite flush:wink: .
I am aware , that probably the wire arms of the hinges might pull out with a big fish on , but I just want to try it out this way .
With some more subtle work effort I could also secure the hinges with some crosswise wire pins , that engage into the "U"-bends at the end of the hinge wire arms .
But I think , that they will hold with epoxy only !
What do you think about all this
Greetz , Dieter
PS: To determine about hinge size , five squares of the background paper make up for 1" !
Posted 30 July 2008 - 08:13 AM
The epoxy will pull out of the wood before the hinges pull out of the epoxy as long as you have the ends doubled over like in the picture.