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My first crank...
26 replies to this topic
Posted 25 June 2008 - 12:05 AM
Natural. I did read your suggestion of the dowel insert and have been chewing over since then. I think it is a very good idea. Increases the contact area of the glue.
Posted 25 June 2008 - 12:13 AM
Love to read your posts diemai. You have put in your time and then some. I'm not worried about my superglued eyelets as fishing poles are flexible and the largest forces those eyelets is gonna see ain't squat(and I fish with mono which is forgiving/stretchy). The super glue absorbs extremely well and I bet there is a large volume in there that has superglue. If it breaks it will probably break at the superglue/wood interface or just in the wood part which will mean the lure will end up snapping in two rather than the eyelet pulling out. Plus you've then got your epoxy clearcoat(s) adding yet even more strength/structural integrity.
Works for me and as the saying goes "if it ain't broken don't fix it". With balsa I would do the dowell rod thing for sure.
I did buy some balsa 1/4" X 1" X 36" and do plan to do thru wire with that since I'll be putting two pieces together anyways.
The joint on this bait was made using a modified dowell rod technique. Instead of using screw eyes I used wire and cut slits opposite each other in each of the two dowell rods. I had no idea that people were using dowells in commercially available baits, glad to know my idea wasn't completely off the wall.
Edited by pizza, 25 June 2008 - 12:47 AM.
Posted 25 June 2008 - 12:44 AM
I have also considered to use superglue for the purpose , since it's a lot faster process , but I left it for that two-component glue , since I was scared about the glue curing too fast and I'd end up with an eyelet fixed only halfway into its bore , not possible to pull out again:( !
But I guess , this depends on the type of brand , that one uses ?
Once got a balsa lure blank from a Finnish friend , haven't used that wood before , but I was aware , that its surface somehow has to be rendered harder prior to painting .
Well , I painted it over several times with a special two-component laquer , that I purchase from a local mailorder store .
They state , that it is used in the auto-industry , it is quite liquid(consistency like superglue) .
The balsa soaked very well with it , after the third or fourth coat a glossy surface developped , a sign , that it won't soak no more , so I gave it another three coats of ordinary epoxy clear coat , just to thicken the outer layer , after I sanded it a little rough and started with the first white primer coat !
The surface turned out quite hard , but never caught a pike with it to tell , how it would withstand the abuse of its teeth .
But for bass fishing such a treatment would surely be sufficient , sadly we don't have them over here:( !
Greetz , diemai
Posted 25 June 2008 - 12:48 AM
Just noticed your picture and explanation .
These slotted dowels are a very smart idea , I'll have them in mind , very clever , indeed:yes: !
Thanks for the input:worship: !
Posted 25 June 2008 - 12:54 AM
Cool...just to clarify that definitely isn't something I came up with. I knew Ed Chambers does this, and was just wondering who else did as well. Maybe he is the only one? Maybe he invented the technique...the dude is old and has probably been making cranks a long while.
Posted 25 June 2008 - 01:56 AM
Concerning employing wood dowels for fixing hook ,-and tow eyes to wooden lures :
Here are some pics(sorry , don't have a printer/scanner) of one of the rare lurebuilding instructions in German angling literature , already almost 15 years old .
It's about a large pike trolling lure of pinewood , the wire suggested here is of brass , 2 mm diameter .
After inserting the "U"-bent wire , its ends are bent sideward inside the bores(With pointed pliers) , then cut flush to flanks and finally secured with that glued-in dowel , wich has a plane on its circumference to accommodate the wire ends .
The woodglue would close up the dowel plane slot entirely !
For my very first lures at that time I have uzilized this method , since there were no such special tackle components available over here and I never knew about possibly mailordering such items from America .
Anyway , it wasn't that hard to do , but later in use I found my lures to be expanding , leaving blemishes sideward at the dowel locations and the coating crackled there:( .
Maybe , the pinewood hasn't set well before getting sold ?
But today I blame this on my lack of experience back then , maybe also my clearcoat was not sufficient , also I did not treat the material with a wood preserver back then !
But I haven't employed this method again , since soon after I learned about getting myself screweyes from the USA .
Off course this method would not work with soft woods like balsa !
Greetz , diemai
Edited by diemai, 25 June 2008 - 02:02 AM.
Posted 25 June 2008 - 08:39 AM
Natural, the old school guys on here have been using dowels in balsa baits for a long time. I use to build my baits the same way but I've found that is a extra step that adds nothing to the bait.
Most of line ties and hook hangers are brass cotter pins with 1 end folded down. I've never had a hanger pull out of a bait. I also twist SS wire around a nail to make hangers, none of those have pulled out. Just a little different way of getting the job done.