Jump to content
30 replies to this topic
Posted 03 July 2008 - 10:18 AM
What I wanted to say is that I started with through wire construction, then I changed to twisted wire eylets, then I made some with the through wire construction again. I find this one to be easier to accomplish than a through wire construction, because if the wood you are using is not balsa, you have to make grooves in the wood for the wire, so that the 2 halves meet in every point of their surface, and that's a tedious thing to do.
0.032" = 0.8128 mm x 2 = 1.6256 mm
I use about the same wire. I thought I would need to drill holes with the diameter of roughly double the diameter of the wire. At first I used 2 mm drill bits, and now I use 1.9 mm. The twisted wire must be straight. I think 3 mm holes is too much for that wire.
And by the way: we are all trainees here, aren't we?
Posted 03 July 2008 - 10:32 AM
With a smaller hole, it is much more difficult to get the resin in. I deposit a few drops with a tooth pick, then work it in to 'wet' the surface inside the hole. Then I place the loop in the hole and feed the resin in drop by drop, until filled.
The surface tension of the resin is strong enough so that I can do all the eyelets without spilling. The time available before setting, allows me to do about half a dozen lures, in front of the TV.
The larger hole gives a larger contact surface with the body material, less chance of it pulling out. Plus, it is compatible with my resin bodies. I did a 24hr pull test, started 1 hour after pouring (12Kg), with no problems. Even the loops did not distort, though that might be a problem. I don't twist the wires, they go in straight, works fine for me.
Posted 03 July 2008 - 10:40 AM
I have used the stainless cotter pins and wire formed in the fashion described by Gene (Lincoya) and never had any fail.
Posted 03 July 2008 - 11:37 AM
I use sst cotter pins, set in epoxy, in a hole approx. 1 1/2 times the diameter of the pin. I try to bend the pin tips out, and put a belly in the two pin sides, and rough up the edges of the pins by "biting" them with diagonal cutters, just to put a series of dents in them for the epoxy to adhere to. I think the epoxy would pull out of the wood before the pins would pull out of the epoxy.
Posted 03 July 2008 - 03:09 PM
You made me curious, so..........
I went on the Devcon site, and asked about both the 5 minute, and their 2ton 30 minute, and this is what the technical representative said:
"Mark; The 5-Minute is what is referred to as water resistant, which
that the plug/lure that catches on a branch or rock and snaps the line,
that it stay immersed will fail over time. The 2 Ton Epoxy is water
and will not be affected except for a slight yellowing over time. Many
people that make jewelry and fishing lures use the 2-Ton and many Fly
use the 5-Minute. Thanks! Have a great forth!"
So the verbiage on the website is wrong, or at the least confusing.
That's a relief. I'd hate to have coated lures with something that wasn't water proof.
Posted 03 July 2008 - 07:56 PM
Here is the skinny..............
Water resistance means water will bead up on it and be shed like a waxed car. However, the material is water soluble and will eventually break down.
Water proof means the coating is not water soluble, therfore not breaking down from exposure.
...oh....and another thing.....
Water proof doesnt mean water proof in all circumstances. According to some astm specs, water proof can mean many different things. You would need the spec number that the epoxy company claims to be in compliance with to really tell.
For example, one spec that I know of for a seal material claims water proofness to a depth of 10 meters in 70 f. mineral free water. (I work for a medical device manufacturer). This is probably not usefull info but may help you win on Jeapordy.........
Edited by Sonny.Barile, 03 July 2008 - 08:06 PM.
Posted 04 July 2008 - 05:02 AM
I wish the industry would be more uniform in it's wording and descriptions, without having to resort to ASTM specs. I spent fifteen minutes reading all the specs. on all the glues that Home Depot had on their rack, trying to figure out which was truly waterproof. I finally figured out that ASTM 1 was the most waterproof rating, but the others were still called waterproof.
Confusing, like being a little pregnant, don't you think? After all, to me, either a glue is waterproof, in which case you can immerse it in water and never have a failure, or it's not.
But, then again, what do I know?
Posted 04 July 2008 - 09:28 AM
Being a little pregnant would also mean that the respective person would give a little bit of birth?
To me, things are clearer now. What we have to learn out of this thread, thanks to Mark, is that 2ton epoxy is reliable for crank makers while 5 min. Devcon (and I assume it goes for other brands of 5 min. epoxy as well) might be good, or might be not.
5 min. Devcon will fail over time, if immersed in water. But for how long? Days, months, years? And do you keep your lures immersed for days when you go fishing? After a fishing day, they have the chance to dry.
I think it would be interesting to find out if the specs for the 2 ton epoxy will change in the official site of the producer, after Mark has shown them a confusing aspect.
Posted 04 July 2008 - 10:05 AM
The problem will only arise if the protective topcoat is breached and water gets inside AND the lures are not air dried out before storing for the next trip (You'll have to write instructions to insert with the lures that you give away or sell)(do people actually return freebees if they get a problem!). This assumes that you are not using '5min' for a top coat, for which it is not recommended because it yellows with time (UV light problem I think).
But the worst thing you could possibly do, in light of this whole discussion, would be to leave your lure sitting in the sun, on a rock, to dry out. That is guaranteed to break the seal and let water in next time you use it. I think someone mentioned this not long ago, so sorry for the dplication, but well worth mentioning.
Posted 04 July 2008 - 03:29 PM
Yeah.....the UV thing is a whole other learning experience......lol
Interesting note: I went to Lowes today and saw a loctite product labeled 50 minute epoxy.....and it said it would be "water-proof" if cured more than 24 hours.