The Natural

Wood Sealant

13 posts in this topic

I'm not sure what everyone is using, and actually it seems as if everyone has a different sealant they use. I found a product that works very well and is very simple to use. It is Minwax Wood Hardener. It is as thin as water, and you can pour some in a cup and just dip your bait in it a few times.

Here is a link with product description....

makezine.com: Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks interesting if a bit pricey. I use a 50/50 mix of Devcon Two Ton epoxy and denatured alcohol. Why? I've got the stuff on hand and it works well. It penetrates with the solvent but still maintains enough of the original properties of the Devcon that it cures to a glossy, leveled out coating. In fact, adding DA makes Devcon glossier than usual, either as sealant or in a topcoat. And a batch lasts long enough that I can brush a bunch of crankbaits before it begins to set up. The only drawback is I feel it's best to sand off the gloss with 400 grit before painting. Don't know if that's necessary but I do it anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This hardener is used in residential construction to make rotten non-structural wood sound again, like window sills, door sill, sash and door, and exterior trim.

Painters use it all the time.

In a pinch, it's cheaper than replacing the rotten wood. You still have to go over it with an appropriate filler, to restore the original shape of the wood, and then prime and paint.

It's a good product for that.

I just ordered an 8oz. container of it to try on my lures.

I'll let you know how it works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased mine at my local home depot. I think you will like it Mark...it's very easy to use and dries very fast. I just pour some in a cup, and dip my bait in. I'll repeat this several times, letting it sit for only about a minute or two. It is as thin as paint thinner, and absorbs into the balsa fast, leaving behind a thin thin seal.

Edited by The Natural

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nat,

I don't use balsa, but I really like the penetrating properties. I'd thought about bumming some off the painters and trying it, but didn't want to ruin a lure.

It sounds like it will take away all the water penetration issues I have concerning hinge pin holes.

Too cool.

Thanks for the tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ The Natural

Just checked your link , man , this sounds very interesting to me:yes: !

Next time in the tool-mart I have to check for such a stuff , but I doubt about finding it over here !

Only dip my lure blanks into wood preserver , abachewood I'd soak in linseed oil , but it surely does not have an effect on the woods surface as much as described in the link .

Thanks , diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nat,

I just went to the Home Depot that's six blocks from my house, and they had the Minwax High Performance Wood Hardner, so I bought a can.

Now I'll have to make another series of lures so I can try it out.

Thanks for the motivation!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are going to clearcoat with an epoxy finish I would not recommend the minwax wood hardener, many moons ago I tried this stuff and at first I thought it was the cats meow. What I found out was that if the bait sits on the deck of your boat in the sun for even ten minutes ther will be a seperation between the different layers of wood hardener,primer,paint and clearcoat. Once I stopped using it the problem was solved. I know there are some that are using this stuff, but I am not sure of what type of clear they are using. Really sucks to have that happen after all of the work that goes into getting a bait wet!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Boy that blows! However...I've already sealed a couple of baits using it, and I plan to clear them with dic nite's. I'll sure post up my results. Using all these different paints, primers, sealants, and clear coats it's no shocker that some of the carrier agents are reacting with one another. Hopefully my formula will work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

blackjack is so right , its always so dissapointing to find out later , that some of the paints and topcoats are not compatible and ruin your work at last .

This is why , I tend to stick to proven methods , but this here sounds so good:yes::huh: !

Greetz , diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

blackjack,

I use Createx water based paints, and D2T or Envirotex Lite.

Is Auto Air water or solvent based?

In the past, whenever I've used a solvent based paint, I let it set for a day before I go over it with anything else. The exception is my spray glitter, which I heat set like Createx, and then apply my epoxy immediately. It's so thin, I think any solvent is driven off with the hair dryer, and I've never had any bubbling or adhesion problems with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now