DanCampbell

Help with mini lathe

8 posts in this topic

Hello,

I just got a Grizzly mini lathe and the instructions seem a bit lacking, I have some questions about set up and thought maybe someone has the same lathe and could answer my novice questions.

1. The instructions state to "Tap" the live center and spur centers into the head and tail stock, What is the purpose of the locknut on the headstock?

2. I bought a chuck arbor and drill chuck, the arbor has a flat stub on the end, anyone know what this is for?

3. In changing from the live center to the drill chuck arbor, do I just "Tap" it out of the head stock?

I'm sorry for the layman questions but I am stumped, I have read through the 3 pages of instructions but I don't seem to be getting it.

The bottom line is I don't understand how the tooling works, or what the big nut on the headstock is for.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dan

This is my lathe : G9247 VS Mini Wood Lathe

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Dan,

I'm no lathe expert, but your lathe may have a tapered chuck, meaning the end that goes into the head is tapered. That's pretty standard in lathes and drill presses.

You use a piece of wood to tap the chuck into the taper, so it won't slip when you first start it up. There's generally lubricant, or, more accurately, protective oil/grease coating on new machine parts, and this is probably to get the chuck seated.

Bear in mind, I have a 50 year old wood lathe with a separate motor, that I picked up at the Saugus Swapmeet for $10, almost thirty years ago. It has a tapered chuck on the headstock.

So does my Grizzley drill press, which I bought twenty years ago.

If the chuck slips after you've tapped it into place, you may not have enough tension between the head and tail chucks, or live center, or whatever you use. Try wiping the tapered end off with solvent, and then reinserting it.

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Mark,

Thanks so much for the reply, I have not even turned it on yet. I just wanted to figure out how it worked. the lock nut was throwing me but I don't think it's actually a "Locknut" for the tapered arbor.

I will put in a pice of stock and give it a try.

Thanks again.

Dan

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@ DanCampell

These tapered fittings have to be clean , corrosion-free and bare of any dust/dirt , otherwise they won't bind , when tapped .

The flat stub on the tapered arbor(if it is the thing , what I understand it to be with my poor technical English but good technical knowledge) is worked onto such devices to transmit the torque , meaning the tapered arbor can't slide and turn in it's fitting tapered bore .

On drillpresses there is also a slot passing crosswise the main drive spindle , when the tapered chuck arbor is fitted in properly , the flat stub is partly visible through that slot , a flat metal wedge is inserted into the slot , a single hit with a hammer on that wedge causes the tapered chuck arbor to be forced out of its fitting .

This flat stub may be useless on such a small machine , I assume , that maybe they only made it this way , because it has to be like that in technical terms to be complete and interchangeable to other designs .

Hope , that you can get something out of this:huh::huh: ,

Good Luck with your new toy :yay:, Dieter

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1. The instructions state to "Tap" the live center and spur centers into the head and tail stock, What is the purpose of the locknut on the headstock?

the "tap" is just to seat them...the big nut locks whatever you have in there down, its a collet...heres a visual... http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/HK1680,Chuck_with_3_collets.jpg

2. I bought a chuck arbor and drill chuck, the arbor has a flat stub on the end, anyone know what this is for?

the stub just locks the morse taper in place to keep it from spinning...

3. In changing from the live center to the drill chuck arbor, do I just "Tap" it out of the head stock?

loosen the collet nut a bit and just give whichever one you have in there a tap...

I'm sorry for the layman questions but I am stumped, I have read through the 3 pages of instructions but I don't seem to be getting it.

dont sweat it, theres enough terminology and accessories to give anyone a headache... you should get a handle on it pretty quick, like everything else, just give it some hands on time...

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Just remember to keep the tool rest close to the work, and your cheisels sharp!

Long handles on lathe tools are for leverage, so the tool doesn't catch and get thrown back at you, or into the ceiling or wall.

Edited by mark poulson

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Hi Guys,

Thanks for all of the great information, I did call grizzly yesterday and ask a few questions from their tech support.

Between Grizzly and the great answers I got from all of you I feel better about my new lathe.

Dan

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Now get to work and turn some lures!

Not to be a nag, but one last thing.

Dan, I have several friends who are successful turners, making bowls, vases, stuff like that.

They all wear full face shields when they turn, the kind that is on a band that fits around your head and covers their entire face. If they think it's smart, it probably is.

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