Jeep

Swimbait troubles: epoxy and hinges

9 posts in this topic

Hi guys,

I wonder how you guys put your epoxy on swimbaits? I have been breaking my head over this one for a week now and am very curious how you guys do this.

I mean: do you assemble the swimbait first and then put on the epoxy or do you epoxy all the loose parts and then put them together?

Because, if you put on the epoxy while assembled it is really tricky to NOT get any epoxy into your slots and onto your hinges.

Also if you put on the epoxy while assembled you can not get any epoxy on the inside of the 'cuts'. But since i now seal all the parts in polyurethane sealer it thought that it wasn't nescessary to epoxy the inside of the cuts.

But... this will leave a 'ridge' at the edge wich -as I found out- can delaminate because of the friction of the joint.

And then, if you would put on the epoxy on loose parts, you can put the epoxy everywhere, but have to re-cut all the slots to get rid of the epoxy....

:?

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I put D2T on the inside of the joints before I assemble them. Then I assemble the lure, put it on the drying wheel, and put two coats of Etex on the faces, being careful not to get it into the joints. I lap the D2T onto the faces a little so I have an overlap. Also, be sure to round the sharp edges of your joints with sandpaper so the epoxy will stick. I've found the stiffer D2T sticks better to the edges of the joints, so I don't have to worry about getting the Etex to stick there. The Etex bonds to the D2T overlap just fine. I've never had a problem.

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hi Mark

Thnx for the advice. But what is D2T?

I'm currently using G4 polyurethane sealer as a base and then etex as topcoat.

Jeep

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Jeep,

I apologize for assuming you knew what D2T is.

D2T is Devcon 2 Ton epoxy, the thirty minute version. It's a clear glue epoxy that sets up in thirty minutes, and is water proof. If you have access to Google, or some other search engine, and type in Devcon Epoxy, you should find it. I get mine from Wood Carving Tools - Texas - The Old Texas Woodcarvers Shop, Tools, Roughouts, Books, Classes

If you don't have access to that, try using the Etex. Mix a little, let it sit for five minutes to be sure it's really activated, and then lightly coat the insides of the joints. You may have to do it in two steps, so you can keep the epoxy from dripping from one end while you do the other. I don't know what's available as far as epoxy in Europe, but maybe one of the European builders, like deimai, could help you with locating some Devcon epoxy. It's stiffer that Etex, so it doesn't run as much and is much easier to use to coat the insides of the joints.

I suppose any waterproof epoxy would do, if it sets relatively quickly. But the Devcon is clear, so the paint in the joints isn't hidden.

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Jeep, I coat my wood with the Devcon after all sections are formed,sanded, etc. and before assembly for paint. I put a screw eye into one of the hinge holes of each section so that I can put on the dryer to get an even coat of epoxy. If you are using the hookeye/pin method it is ok for the epoxy to get into the holes for the pin. This helps to make sure that the pin is firmly in place during final assembly. Hope this helps.

David

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I just sealed some lures using the Minwax wood hardner as a sealer. It is really runny, and seems to get into the hinge pin holes really well.

My hope is that the lures will be wateproof even if the topcoat is damaged.

Fingers crossed.

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I carve, sand, seal, paint, and clearcoat all the sections prior to assembly. I also use screw eyes in the pre-drilled hole to keep the epoxy out.

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Don't think , that D2T is widely available in Europe(if at all) , but I think , that in RC-model shops I have seen similar stuff .

Or maybe google for Devcon distributors over here ?

greetz , diemai

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