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clear coat question for the engineers out there...
30 replies to this topic
Posted 04 August 2008 - 01:02 AM
I think a short shank triple grip is one of the two new trebles Mustad came out with recently.
The other is a short shank 2X treble.
I don't mind the regular shank triple grips on the back of a lure. In fact, I think it probably looks like a tail, swinging back there, and the longer shank is almost like a stinger hook.
But Pizza is right. In the smaller sizes, the angle of the hook point makes the gap really small, so I use round bends on my lures that take a #6.
I like short shank hooks for jointed baits, since it lets me use larger hooks without fouling.
I've been using Owner stingers, but I'm going to try the new Mustads.
I've never had a hook stay sharp as long as their ultra points.
Posted 04 August 2008 - 08:02 AM
That's why I lean toward the tensile and impact as data that very loosley corelates to what a lure might go through. Most likely, when a lure impacts a rock, it's a glancing blow and the coating is sheared on an angle. The failure probably occurs when the rock digs in and elongates the coating until it breaks or just looses adhesion, subsequently causing a lager failure. Same with teeth. With balsa, the tooth is going to indent the lure and take the coating down with it until it elongates and fails. On plastic baits, you probably get a shearing action similar to a rock strike. I guess an impact test could be useful because the failure usually comes in the areas that are elongated on the outer edge.
Man, we think about this stuff way too much. LOL
Posted 04 August 2008 - 08:27 AM
Pete's test is the best.
Posted 03 September 2008 - 09:38 PM
"Durometer" or "Shore hardness" is the number you are looking for. Elastomeric materials like common o-rings are a 60 to 70 durometer. Polyethylene milk containers are about 80 to 90. The epoxy manufacturer can provide you with the value for a particular resin/hardner combination if mixed to there specifications. This hardness value will clue you in to whether the epoxy is too soft or too brittle. Keep in mind that the harder it is the less surface grip strength it will have. This is why I posted earlier that to hard a coating will shatter and seperate from the surface of the lure easily. I was using polyacrylic on my lures and it is to gummy. It has a durometer of 60. A toothy fish can penetrate it easily. However, when I hit the rocks, it gets more of a rash (rough surface) as opposed to a chip.
Edited by Sonny.Barile, 03 September 2008 - 09:42 PM.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 05:28 AM
Here's a bit of info, just to cloud the words HARDNESS / TOUGHNESS, a bit more. The last paragraph, is a bit deflating. pete
The shore scleroscope measures hardness in terms of the elasticity of the material. A diamond-tipped hammer in a graduated glass tube is allowed to fall from a known height on the specimen to be tested, and the hardness number depends on the height to which the hammer rebounds; the harder the material, the higher the rebound .
Shore hardness  is a measure of the resistance of material to indentation by 3 spring-loaded indenter. The higher the number, the greater the resistance.
The hardness testing of plastics is most commonly measured by the Shore (Durometer) test or Rockwell hardness test. Both methods measure the resistance of the plastic toward indentation. Both scales provide an empirical hardness value that doesn't correlate to other properties or fundamental characteristics. Shore Hardness, using either the Shore A or Shore D scale, is the preferred method for rubbers/elastomers and is also commonly used for 'softer' plastics such as polyolefins, fluoropolymers, and vinyls. The Shore A scale is used for 'softer' rubbers while the Shore D scale is used for 'harder' ones. The shore A Hardness is the relative hardness of elastic materials such as rubber or soft plastics can be determined with an instrument called a Shore A durometer. If the indenter completely penetrates the sample, a reading of 0 is obtained, and if no penetration occurs, a reading of 100 results. The reading is dimensionless.
The Shore hardness is measured with an apparatus known as a Durometer and consequently is also known as 'Durometer hardness'. The hardness value is determined by the penetration of the Durometer indenter foot into the sample. Because of the resilience of rubbers and plastics, the hardness reading my change over time - so the indentation time is sometimes reported along with the hardness number. The ASTM test number is ASTM D2240 while the analogous ISO test method is ISO 868.
The results obtained from this test are a useful measure of relative resistance to indentation of various grades of polymers. However, the Shore Durometer hardness test does not serve well as a predictor of other properties such as strength or resistance to scratches, abrasion, or wear, and should not be used alone for product design specifications.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 07:51 AM
Holy mackeral! I am a computer programer and you guys are making my head hurt! I feel like a box of rocks!
After all the engineers are done, someone send us a note with the best products to use or mix together for finishing swim bait joints (meaning how to avoid too much build up yet being totaly waterproof, especially for repaints of someone elses baits, and oh if this means just use lacquers or ??? for painting just say so), what products would be better for jerk baits (because they tend to hit lots of docks and rocks), and then what is the best overall finish for painting over wooden baits. I'll use this one on plastic repaints too, because well, uncle!
Posted 04 September 2008 - 08:25 AM
In the past, on my wooden swim baits, I've used D2T, which chips off wood lures, and Etex, which I love, but it yellows if the lure is in the sun all day.
I've just started using Nu Lustre 55 epoxy on my wood swimbaits.
It has UV inhibitors, which are supposed to stop the yellowing that drives me nuts, after I've spent so long coming up with a paint scheme I like.
For balsa cranks, I used Etex, and will now use the Nu Lustre 55, over Createx.
If I'm repainting a plastic crank, I use D2T over Createx. It is harder than the other epoxies, and holds up well on plastic baits.
If I'm touching up a jerkbait, or adding glitter to a lure, I use cheap $.99 NYC nail polish, which, I think, is similar to vinyl lure paint. It comes in clear, too, and each bottle has it's own brush.
To touch up gashes on the water, I use brush-on super glue. I just make sure the lure is dry first, and let it set for 15 minutes or so after I apply the glue, to avoid the chalky white that forms when the glue gets wet before it sets.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 12:35 PM
Mark, to fix gashes while fishing, I use a really fast method. Cut off the crank, toss it in the bottom of the boat and tie on another crank! Cuts that 15 min wait time down to nothing!
A comment on treble hooks: Gamakatsu Round Bends are sharper out of the box and stay sharper than any I've used including japanese hook brands. They're also tempered to be tough. I found this out when cutting replacement hooks for blade baits (cut the eye of a treble with wire pliers, then bend it closed on the blade bait). You can't use Gamys because the temper is hard enough that the wire in the eye will break before it bends. I can't remember the last time a Gamy hook bent out on a fish. Not so with other brands, including the VMCs and Mustads I also use. I'm not knocking them. I put Rapala Inline VMCs and premium Mustad Triple Grips on some baits and like them. But Gamakatsu's are worth the extra cost to me because their light wire penetrates well and they are very strong and sharp.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 03:22 PM
Posted 05 September 2008 - 08:24 AM
Is it possible to have a UV activated epoxy with UV inhibiters?
Seems like the UV inhibiters would prevent the UV light from penetrating and curing the epoxy.
Posted 05 September 2008 - 06:10 PM
Shouldn't be much of a problem. The UV rays needed to cure are a pretty narrow band. Even if it did affect it, the initiator that makes it cure could probably be boosted. Not something a consumer could do. It would have to be done in the formulation.