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Dick Nite Lure Coat
40 replies to this topic
Posted 03 August 2008 - 11:39 AM
I just started spraying DN and Acetone on my baits. Man I love this stuff. Very easy to apply and dries super quick (at least in this florida heat and humidity) you loose the high gloss effect but as far as applying its a breeze. Also I got the UV active DN which turns kind of a bluish purple in the sunlight, really cool looking. Just be sure to get a good respirator, atomized DN and acetone is not some you want in your lungs....I transferred my pint into a salsa jar like I read on past forums, just replace the lid and wrap with aluminum foil and a rubber band, works great.
Posted 04 August 2008 - 09:23 PM
oh, i meant to ask.
how long does a pint of this last? about how many baits?
Posted 05 August 2008 - 08:20 AM
A pint?????? If you're doing even large crankbaits, you'll be able to get a couple hundred baits out of it. Easily.
B75........how much are you thinning the DN? I spray mine thinned with acetone too and it's just as glossy as when I brushed it on before. You don't need much acetone for it to spray nicely. I've been good with about 25% acetone but it seems like you could even thin it a little less than that. Anyone that has a setup capable of spraying it safely, I highly reccomend giving spraying it a try.
Posted 05 August 2008 - 08:27 AM
Im using about the same as you. My first attempts brushing failed (and trust me they were heat set, almost melted the lure) I found out it was the krylon primer I was using, I switched to a etching primer and started dipping, they look great but when this stuff gets in the sunlight it really turns blue kinda changing the colors on my bait. Spraying cuts down on the blue and is really easy. I have a custom paint booth with a good vacuum and I just dont trust it. I started spraying outside. I'll put a pic on so you can see how they look.
Posted 05 August 2008 - 08:49 AM
is the finish really smooth? It looks to me like it's as simple as your final coat not being thick enough.
I first mist 2-3 very light coats. Then I spray 3-4 more coats a little heavier. When you're spraying it, you don't need to wait that long between coats. Don't go too heavy with the coats, or it'll run just like paint. But if you go too light, it won't level out and get super smooth. I haven't tried spraying the UV stuff yet, but I don't see any reason it should be any different.
Posted 05 August 2008 - 09:44 AM
Real smooth. Its about 6 coats. couple min. inbetween coats. I like the way it looks. Just got to be real careful to get all the fuzz and dust off the bait first.
Edited by b75nweav, 05 August 2008 - 09:45 AM.
Posted 06 August 2008 - 11:30 AM
Ok, Im back on the D2t again. Did this one with it and just love the way it shines and I never really have a problem with applying it, the only thing with it is the humidity here, It always seems to be 100% and the epoxy lets you know it.
Posted 06 August 2008 - 01:41 PM
that paintjob looks amazing and your epoxy puts me to shame!
Posted 06 August 2008 - 03:09 PM
That's weird. It looks hazy like the final coat was misted on. I'd like to know how to end up with that matte finish you got with the DNLC if it's as smooth as you're saying. Interesting. Have you sprayed the original clear yet? If so, same results?
Your D2T skills are just fine though.
Posted 06 August 2008 - 05:27 PM
No I have not tried the clear yet. I misted every coat thick. I have not tried to throwing it against a wall yet but you cant scratch the stuff. I think im going to stick with the D2T for a while until I get all the bugs worked out of the DN. Also cleaning your airbrush after spraying it is a booger. Im using my old capital 2006 gf to spray (Got me a new iwata hp-b, Very sweet gun) and after spraying I put some acetone in the cup and cover it. It usually works great but occasionaly it gets hung up in the nozzle. I usually dont paint alot of baits at once, just several at a time. I think if I was painting quantity this would be the way to go, you could coat them all real quick and not have to worry about the drying wheel. I think I will order some of the clear and see how it works.
Posted 07 August 2008 - 05:02 PM
A cheap single action airbrush is great for spraying DN. It eliminates cleaning issues you will have with a dual action. Simple, easy cleanup and needle/ nozzles are fairly cheap.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 03:01 PM
Is anyone using the Dick Nite for musky lures? If so how is it holding up and how many coats are you adding to your baits?
Posted 20 September 2008 - 10:36 PM
Tyjack, I don't make musky lures but am using Dick Nite and find that it is tougher and slicker than epoxies I've used, so have to believe it would be good on a musky lure. The drawback is that I think you need to let each coating of DN cure for 24 hrs before recoating. How many coats on a musky bait? Got me! I never use more than 2 on a bass bait.
Posted 21 September 2008 - 10:06 PM
I caught a few 2 lb bluefish on a plug I used DNLC on. Only let it cure 3 days before fishing it, and there's only one scratch on it. I'd have to say that bluefish will test a finish at least as much as musky, and they barely touched the finish with a 3 day cure. Would think it'd have been much better after a two week cure, I'll let you guys know in a couple days when I get down the shore again.
Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:54 AM
Sound very interesting, I think Iím going to give it a try. Thanks for the help BobP and clamboni, I read all 4 pages of this thread and I never seen any talk about anyone using it for musky lures. I think it is time too open my ways by add options to my clear coating. Iím one that has a system that works and set on not changing it. But something needs to change for the time I put in to my clear is just not right.
Thanks for all the Info.
Posted 22 September 2008 - 10:39 AM
I admit that I still need more experience with DN. I like it alot - the toughness and gloss are superior. But in my experience, it does produce more "goofs" and irregularities than epoxy and it requires more "technique" (both storage and application) to use successfully. It is much thinner than D2T and of course nothing levels as well as epoxy, so any little surface glitch on the lure is not going to be "paved over" as with epoxy. DN's solvent flashes out quickly (usually within a few minutes). But if there is any area on the lure where DN has pooled, you will have problems after it goes on the drying wheel. It quickly forms a skin over a pooled area and still-liquid DN runs back and forth underneath until it wrinkles the underlying acrylic latex paint. All problems with DN get worse if you are using some that has begun to thicken in the storage container. So you need to be careful about storage and application. I'll stop whining now.
p.s. - I'm still waiting on some Bloxygen to spray into my DN containers to stop any "cure in the bottle" problems. The supplier says the Bloxygen folks had trouble getting aerosol cans for the production so I was backordered for 2 months. Hopefully it will be shipped next week!
Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:35 PM
hay im also from nj and live close to lbi.
i would love to see this stuff in person on a few of you baits.
im in the middle of looking for a new clear for my striper lures and hope that this is the stuff.
any chance we can meet up?????
i will drive out to you no problem..
Posted 28 September 2008 - 04:14 PM
I have tried DN's for musky lures..........didn't like it at all.
Posted 28 September 2008 - 04:44 PM
I just finished a great fluke season banging bucktails on the bottom
Caught lots of big fluke but the bottom of the bucktail that hit the bottom
went back to bare lead.
I used a coat of ENVIROTEX
Should I use Devcon 2 Would it be stronger or just need multiple coats
Thanks Salty Ross