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adrenalineben

Clear Coat

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I am now experimenting with clear coats and would like to know what products you find most successful. At this time I am using Wildlife Colors mainly because Smith Paints is only an hour from where I live and the service and delivery has been better than the suppliers that are in other areas of the US. I tried Life Tone poly-urethane and had some compatibility problems with the wildlife colors.

What have you has success with and what is your method of application. Again thanks for your input.

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NU-USTRE-55 www.swingpaints.com

Yes I use it on wood, as a sealer and a top coat. It is awsome.. two part polymer. Two part mix like epoxy, brush on and rotate. I just finished doing 25- 3'' lures with just two plastic teaspons full!

The finish is as attractive as a Rapala- it looks clear, like plastic.

I found mine at the local hardware store, I asked for a two part bar top finish. It's the same stuff those old plastic coated picture art things are made with. I've heard that Canadian Tire has it in their on line catalog???

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Just purchased some Famowood Glaze Coat High Build Epoxy Coating from Home Depot. It should correspond to the Nu-luster 55 Big Splash said he was using. It is used on Table tops, clocks, etc. It is a two part mix and brush on. Directions did say 6 hours to dry. Will try some this weekend and report back as to the results. I think this is the stuff that you see on table tops like at "Hooters" so they tell me!

:D Charlie M

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Now Skeeter, I think they call it "Happy Hour"

Could not wait to try the Famowood Glaze Coat so I did it last night before I went to bed (2AM). This morning at about 11:00AM it was dry to touch and handle without any problems and was not stickey. It said that it might take another 36 hours to cure. It did look clear and deep. I did not put it on a drying wheel but one would need to do so. Got a small amount of run to the tail hook. (tried it on an old lure) and did not bother to take off the tail hook. The Glaze looked like it might work and it really went on good with a hand brush.

Skeeter, the gentlemen that I told you about that uses auto clear coat was at a tournament to day and had some of his lures. He just paints Plastic bodies from Jan's. Anyway he had a nice looking finish on the lures and said that he has found out that he could spray it a little heavier and just do it once. Cleans air brush with cleaner and has not been a problem. The finish looked and felt hard but that was on plastic. He uses Createx paint also. As I told you he uses dupont two part clear coat.

Spookeman, as I was looking for the Glaze I saw the minwax polyurethane, and the one that struck my eye was the Gloss Floor fast drying material. That looked like it was hard as nails and would take a lot of abuse. The only thing was, I only saw it in a gal. can. Too much to buy just to try.

Charlie M, AKA boyhowdy

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Before I bought the minwax everyone was telling me it was the best. Now I have another can of poly to get rid of. I don't have a rotater can you get a decent job by just hanging the lure up with the new luster 55 or the devcon? finished these two today with minwax. Dipped them 4 times so they will probably be yellowed in a year or so.

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I did some reasonable NU-LUSTRE-55 jobs by hanging, turning the lure end for end every 5- 10 min. Then I built a rotating rack out of a cardboard box, a rotisary motor, a pool noodle, and an arrow shaft (doweling). I still get a few runs now and then (nothing is perfect), but I can do a lot more at one time, and I dont get the drips running off.

Be sure to keep us posted on how the minwax holds up over time.

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Try a product called Top Secret TS100 Cear. It's a one part epoxy that has a two year shelf life. This stuff used to be top secret. They used it on tanks, aircraft carriers and aircraft radomes. Since declassification, the company that makes it changed their name to Top Secret. Being a one part epoxy, it is oxygen activated. I dip all my lures in it then just put the lid back on the jar. It runs about $29.95/qt

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OBAYB, do you ever get wrinkles or drying problems with the TS100?.. Ive been using it for about 5 months,still on the 1st quart,stuff goes a long ways.. But I have drying problems, doesnt harden if I dip lures direct without thinning..I bought their thinner for it, mix 50-50 & it drys fine like that..But then its really thin like milk viscosity..I'd like to dip my lures at the original "fresh out of the can" viscosity to achieve a thicker coat..Is there a secret to Top Secret?.I rotate constant for 2 hrs then hang at room temp, mid 70's..Thanks in advance for any input..John

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OhioLureMaker-John-

I'm doing everything almost the same as you are, John, except you might try drying your lures in a low humidity area. I have a dehumidifier in the house. I made a hanger for 25 lures and bring them in the house for 48 hours. The Top Secret seems to like this. No runs or drips now.

Al

texastopwaterlures.com

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:wink: Spookman

I've been using the Minwax for almost two years now and have had no problems with yellowing. I do however understand where they are coming from. If you do not get a good seal on the can after each use the urethane will thickin. You're talking about one thick mirror wet finish, but it will yellow. If the urethane thickins discard and get a fresh can.

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