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Jointed lure first attempt
27 replies to this topic
Posted 19 August 2008 - 09:11 AM
I made the tail the same size of the photo I used as a reference. I wanted the tail to really kick from side to side. Once I redesign the tail connection and it holds the tail in place better I'll be able to tell for sure what is causing the tail to twist. I just melted some really soft worms and the actual plastic I use will be much stiffer.
You could be right. The tail might be too big. It might need to be downsized and lighter.
I'm already working on remaking the masters and I'll make one just a bit smaller.
Posted 19 August 2008 - 09:51 AM
Man, that lure looks great! Everything about it works. Good job.
I can't wait to see it painted and finished!
As for weighting, you've already determined how much and where.
Try drilling ballast holes just behind the front hook hanger, and as close as possible to the rear hanger, without weakening either.
It looks like you used screw eyes, and are tight for space on the rear hanger.
I would consider removing the screw eye and weighting the hanger itself. That way, you can get the ballast exactly where you have it now.
I learned a tip early on here to use weighted hook hangers, since all of my lures need some weight anyway, and the location of the hook hangers seemed to be the best place for the initial weight.
There used to be an outfit that sold weighed hangers, but they don't return my calls anymore, so I make my own, again with a tip I learned here.
I push a sst cotter pin through an 1/8oz egg sinker, and then bend the ends out 90 degrees and clip them off even with the outside diameter of the sinker. That way, I can slowly push the entire setup into a 5/16" hole that's half filled with D2T 30 minute epoxy, and the epoxy pushes back up past the weight, and also up through the pin hole.
If the 1/8oz weight is too much, you can pinch the split shot around the shank of the cotter pin, and then bend it and cut it off.
I bet, if your screw eyes are long enough, you could do the same thing with screw eyes instead of cotter pins.
I found it's an easy way to start the weighting process on jointed wooden lures, and makes weighting smaller sections easier.
After that, I float test just like you with #5 split shots pinched onto the trebles until I get the floatation I want, and drill and set them in epoxy, too.
Hope this helps.
Edited by mark poulson, 19 August 2008 - 09:56 AM.
Posted 19 August 2008 - 10:40 AM
Would just like to add my . Man, you have a wonderful bait there! When you make a swimbait that starts that snake action as quickly as yours, you have done exceptionally well.
As Mark stated, you do want the weight as far to the rear of the front section as possible. I think you have found the spot by hanging your weights on the hook. If you use an egg sinker or tungsten (thanks for the mention Dean) you can do one of three things. 1) you can use cotter pins as Mark suggested, 2) you can drill out the center of lead weight so that it will fill with epoxy and then insert screw eyes, 3) same as 2 only use the twisted wire. The epoxy (and I would strongly suggest D2T and not 5 min.) WILL hold the eyes.
Excellent work. I look forward to seeing the final version ala paint and video in the pond (hopefully with a BIG bass attacking it).
Posted 19 August 2008 - 11:29 AM
I made a coil of spinnerbait sst wire, about 3/8" diameter and 3/4" long, by winding it around a 5/16" diameter lag screw I locked in a vise. I used channel locks to hold the starting end of the wire and just used my hand to wrap the wire around the lag.
I drill a 3/8" hole in the back of the rear section, again about 3/8" deep, and epoxy in the coil with D2T 30. Then I "screw" on my tail. Like a large version of the Hitch Hiker.
Posted 19 August 2008 - 11:40 AM
Thanks Mark. That's what I thought by looking at them. I made a few last night and they look like they will do the trick.
Posted 19 August 2008 - 04:56 PM
To be honest, I didn't notice a twisting in the swim action. But, when the lure halts, the last two sections do twist up. Because you have used balsa, a very buoyant wood, any sections without ballast will try to lie flat. This takes up the slack in the hinges and twists.
You cannot solve this problem at the hinges, the play is required to keep the movement free. The only solution is to ballast one or both of the rear sections. Maybe just the second to last section alone will reduce the problem to your satisfaction. Of course, this might harm the action you have now, only a trial will reveal.
Posted 19 August 2008 - 06:20 PM
Vodkaman, I just got back from testing it in the pond. The twisting is from the tail not being correctly secured which allows it to twist a bit. You are right the tail section was twisting.
I didn't know why until you explained it and after I watched the video in slow motion several times. The tail doesn't twist unless I really jerk on it. I think the new connection will fix that.
It swam a bit differently in the pond. It was much smoother and the action seemed to be more fluid and less jerky at slower retrieves. When I pulled it hard it had the same action as it did in the tub.
I tried to add additional weight to the rear hook but you're right, it really killed the action. It swam with the head downhill a bit due to the weight so I tried less weight and that seemed to fix that. I need some different size weights so I can experiment some more.
This weekend I'll have more time to tinker with weighting it.