borderbasser

wood to wood glue?

57 posts in this topic

Can anyone tell me what is the strongest glue for a wood to wood connection. I am experimenting with a different type of hinge on my swimbaits (similar to a 3:16) and the hinges are made of wood and have to be glued to the body. Thanks.

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All 3 mentioned have the ability to adhere stronger than the wood itself.

The wood (Any specie) will be the weak link.

If you can setup your hinge design to glue "grain to grain" (avoiding end-grain) then any wood glue will work.

As for water resistance, that's a whole other can of worms.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second Jerry's comments. He's a cabinet maker, knows what he is talking about. My brother is a chainsaw artist and uses PVA (elmers) exclusively. Excellent strength, but give it 24 hours undisturbed.

Can't wait to see the pics!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys. What would be some examples of water proof or at least resistant glues? I have heard that Titebond III is one, but I have no experience with it. It would really be nice to have something that sets up quick too like Devcon 5min because it is difficult to clamp the pieces in place. Anyway, does it really even matter what the water resistance is once the bait has been topcoated? I will post pics ASAP. Thanks.

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It would really be nice to have something that sets up quick too like Devcon 5min because it is difficult to clamp the pieces in place.

I'd 2nd. gorilla glue for water resistance, it's a polyurethane glue.

If I'm not mistaken, they recommend using water to help activate gorilla glue. One thing to note is that it foams & expands as it cures, so take care if you're doing intricate glue ups.

There is a product I have personal experience with. Its a type of super glue, but engineered specifically for wood, it come in 2 parts, the glue & an aerosol activator. It's strong stuff & have seen it split hardrock maple trying to separate 2 glued pieces.

It sets/cures in about 10 seconds, I use it when a micro-pin is too large to hold 2 pieces of wood together:

It's not cheap & I'm sure there are other manufacturers, likely serving the hobby modeling market or something similar.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would of used a polyurethane glue thats activated by spraying water on the glue like redg8r suggests

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In Germany there is a special waterproof version of a popular(white) wood glue available called "Ponal" by "Henkel" .

You should have such available in the States as well , for example for making outdoor garden furniture or wooden boats .

I am using this stuff to glue 1" abachewood boards together(not available in thicker measures) , when I need a thicker blank to turn down a more voluminous lure and also lures , that consist of two halves with internal wire harness .

Never had any problems , even put some of these blanks into turpentine/linseedoil to preserve them , didn't harm the glue bond a single bit !

Some I've been fishing for years already , no failure visible !

Good Luck , diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is another awesome wood to wood glue called Titebond......I make wainscoating at work and we glue all of our wood panels together with it. I've personally hit quite a few panels on the edge of a table to see where it breaks and its never broke in the seam where its glued..this stuff is awesome....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments guys. As for the Titebond, I have heard that the Titebond III is a waterproof version and have thought of trying it, but was wondering what type of glue it is and if it tacks up fast so that the pieces can be handled. As I said before, it would be a pain (not impossible) to clamp the pieces so a fast setting glue would be better. Thanks again.

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Titebond & Titebond II are interior grade, Titebond III is exterior grade (should have a "duck") on the bottle.

They are all typical to standard wood glue.

My experience has it tacking in about 20 minutes & clamps removed after 2 hours, let setup overnight, but I think the bottle says, cures in 4 hours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ borderbasser

As far , as I am concerned , any wood parts bonded with special wood glue have to be clamped , whilst glue is curing .

Surely I don't know about your design and construction , but if it is headache to set carpenters ,-or spring loaded clamps , maybe you could use some sort of wedges ?

There is another special glue over here called "UHU-hart" , it is especially made for building model planes , also model boats of wood .

It is clear , sets within 15 min(full strength after 24 hrs) , but I don't think , that I would trust it for lures without any mechanical fitting , unless these are made of balsa(soaks very well into the pores of balsa , you can't break that bond , the wood would crack up) .

good luck , diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure I can figure out a way to clamp but it seems like it would be difficult. So far I have used Devcon 5min. since it sets fast. I can use hand pressure to "clamp" the pieces long enough for that stuff to set up. Can anyone give me any reason why any of the other glues previously mentioned would be stronger than the Devcon? If not, I will probably stick with it. Might even try some of the faster setting stuff. I just figured that there might be some glues out there that were made especially for wood that might be better. Thanks again.

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is really nothing new, but few people are doing it. The only major manufacture that uses this type of hinge is 3:16 which I think are the finest hard baits made...so I had to try it. These are the hinges that I mentioned in my post about wood to wood glues. The bass bait still needs some finish. I am waiting for some Dick Nite to spray on it 'cause I didn't want to build in much clearance for appearance reasons. The bluegill bait is coated in Etex so I had to build it with a little sloppier tolarances in the hinges.

TJ

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/borderbasser/102_7756.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/borderbasser/102_7755.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/borderbasser/102_7754.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/borderbasser/102_7748.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ borderbasser

Very interesting pics of your well done swimbaits :yay:.

By those pics I can even figure out about the working operations neccessary:yes: .

Truly quite an uncommon method on homemade baits , but also now I understand , why you requested a dead safe kinda glue and why clamping would have been headache :yes:!

I once have to try this method as well(when I would have time , may be when I'm gonna be retired in 20 years :huh::):lol:???) , but since I have a hobby routing machine in my workshop , I'd cut those hinges out of the full material , but I am not sure , which way would be easier:? ?

Great job and idea :yay:!

diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Borderbasser - :worship::worship:. these are exceptional baits. I have been using screw eyes, twisted wire hinges since I started building (or trying to) swimbaits a year ago. You have raised the bar as far as hinges go and I now feel compelled to try to at least come close. Thanks for the pics. These are great looking baits, love the paint as well as hinges.

Have a question for you but it is off topic. Will send pm.

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

borderbass,

Try using masking tape to hold the parts until the glue sets. Or duct tape, or scotch tape, or any tape that will hold them. Masking tape is just cheap, and easier to handle than the other types.

If you have a close fitting joint, the wood glues mentioned will have enough strength to hold, and the joint will fail in the wood itself, not at the glue joint.

Do you drill the female part of you hinge slot after you've shaped everything as one?

You do some nice carving, and that's a clever hinging method.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mark. I didn't think about using tape. I build the bait as one solid piece. Before I cut out the profile from the block, I drill a 5/8" hole where I want the pin to be, cut out the bait and get it shaped and sanded down to size, and then once it is finished, cut through both of the sides at the center of the hole to seperate the the joints.

TJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Incredible looking baits. I too have been thinking about trying the 3:16 hinge system with wood, just haven't gotten around to it yet. It is by far the best looking hinge for swimbaits. I have a couple of questions. Did you use a dowel for the actual hinge? Can we see a video of the bass?

Bravo!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now