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wood to wood glue?
56 replies to this topic
Posted 23 August 2008 - 01:19 PM
On the bluegill bait, I had to sand the hinges down some to allow clearance for the epoxy finish. The bass bait, I didn't allow for much clearance, but I am going to try to spary Dick Nite's finish since it is so thin. I figure I will spray 1-2 coats on the hinges and try to build the finish up on the rest of the bait. Thanks for the comments guys.
Posted 23 August 2008 - 01:44 PM
Don't think , that there would be much wear occuring with clearcoat rubbing on clearcoat , only when clearcoat is rubbing on uneven or rough-surfaced metal(provided , that it is chosen rigid and hard enough) .
Have some simple sreweye-jointed homemade cranks , designed in a way , so that their sections would constantly hit one another on retrieve to generate noise , no signs of wear to be seen on them , though in use already for several seasons .
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 23 August 2008 - 02:16 PM
What I would really like to do is make a swimbait that I'm 100% satisfied with and make a mold of it. I just don't know how strong it would be at the hinges if using foam. I guess it can be made out of Alumalite (sp?), but I am not familiar with that stuff either. This would be opening up a whole new can of worms for me since I have never experimented with molds for hard baits. The main reason I haven't is because I don't sell my baits and it seems like it would be a lot of work for personal use. Anyway, what do you guys think about the hinge strength of these materials?
Posted 23 August 2008 - 10:19 PM
Try contact cement. It's whats used to glue formica countertops to their wood base.
Posted 25 August 2008 - 09:52 AM
Solvent based contact cement can fail in sunlight/heat. Be sure it's really cured out before you proceed.
Posted 25 August 2008 - 10:04 AM
The Alumilite should do fine. Be sure to mix exactly as recommended. I hope to have a definite answer shortly as I am still working on building a bait that I am completely satisfied with before making the mold. Not sure how long this will be, but it should be in the next week, I hope.
Posted 30 August 2008 - 06:51 AM
Thought it would be of benifit as it was mentioned earlier by Jerry (no good for hinges) to post a pick of the Foaming Polyurethane wood adhesive. This is the stuff you spray with water. Good for filling gaps if through wiring. You can see the hook hanger ring in this picture.
Spread real thin on one surface, mist spray one surface, clamp, wait 5 mins and unclamp. The excess can be removed easily and the joint sanded in around 20 to 30 mins.
Posted 30 August 2008 - 05:15 PM
Looks like frogs eggs Phil ! ! Maybe we could us this stuff as a bait?? Good glue too. pete
Posted 30 August 2008 - 08:13 PM
Philb Ive never used this type of glue for baits , does this glue have any reaction with e-tex lite when clearing? This is on the same line of glue as gorilla glue right? Like to try something new but needsome info.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 03:08 AM
I cannot answer your question yet as I have not coated any of the baits I have made so far with this type of adhesive. There should not be a problem though for me as all I am using the adhesive for is jointing woods together, I am then sealing them prior to painting and ultimately coating with Etex, in theory the glue should not come into contact with the finish coat. I have started using this type of adhesive as I have had trouble in the past with air pockets within the bait body after through wiring.
What I can tell you though is the adhesive is very quick and extremely strong also it is waterproof. I have tried to part two halves and simply cannot. The glue is stronger than the wood.
I do not consider an adhesive being waterproof is of any real benefit because if a bait suffers from water ingression then it it not a worthy construction and will fail as a usable lure, at the end of the day a lure has to be waterproof for longevity this is why so much time is spent on sealing and coating.
I will of course post on the board any problems or related info as it occurs.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:28 AM
I use gorilla glue to laminate some of my lure bodies, and it has no effect on the sealer, paint, or top coat.
I leave it clamped for at least an hour, or until it's hard enough to sand.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 07:00 AM
I believe Gorilla glue is of the same Genre as the glue I am using. I think the difference between them is the gorilla glue does not foam up, am I correct ??
Posted 31 August 2008 - 10:24 AM
It seems that I read or someone has told me that polyurethane and etex dont mix well. Ive never tried this because of that. I dont know if its true or not, love to hear the facts.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:04 PM
Gorilla glue foams, too. In my experience with it, the glue takes a while after it's foamed before it's hard.
I'm sure different brands have different characteristics.
Gorilla glue is the only brand I've used.
Posted 02 September 2008 - 10:24 AM
Borderbasser, back a few pages ago the subject of clamping came up. Several good ideas came out, like using tape to hold the dowel pieces in place. Just thought I would throw this idea out. I have been using Erwin bar clamps that I picked up from Lowe's. these clamps hold the pieces very tight with no slippage. They sure work for me.
Posted 03 September 2008 - 12:44 PM
I'm sure it could be used, it is certainly tough enough and will take a hook easily. You are like me and resent paying a fortune for small amounts of gear when, if you know what it is, you can pick up shed loads for a fraction of the cost. Well this stuff is just like the expanding foam filler you buy in those big cans, they use it nowadays for gluing window frames into openings in buildings instead of screw fixings, you even mist water spray the brick opening for added adhesion just like you mist spray this stuff. It would not be a surprise if they were one of the same.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 01:48 PM
Here's a tip for the pins/holes connection...
Insert the shaft of a plastic Q-Tip into the hole before putting your pin through it. Now the inside of the Q-Tip shaft acts as a plastic bushing instead of the metal pin rubbing against wood.