mark poulson

Nu Lustre 55

49 posts in this topic

I just got an order of the Nu Lustre 55 UV protected epoxy in the mail.

The instructions don't address things like lure coating.

They also only recommend their own solvent for cleanup.

Does anyone here know what solvent I should use? I am too cheap to mix some up just to play with it.

Also, can I use it just like Etex, with Createx water based paints, and Krylon solvent based spray glitter?

As usual, any help will be deeply appreciated. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this any different than Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX)? Both are "table top epoxies".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's kind of a cross between D2T and Etex in working time. Thicker than Etex.

I am trying it because it has UV blockers, and I'm tired of my silver baits turning a golden hue after I've used them for a while. It's hard enough to get the paint scheme right the first time, at least for me, without Mr. Golden Sun putting in his two cents!

If it's easy to use, I'm going to re coat my other silver baits to give them the additional UV protection. Plus another coat of epoxy can't hurt!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Is this any different than Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX)? Both are "table top epoxies".

Looks similar, but I'd guess it's higher molecular weight(tougher, thicker, and more heat resistant). Mark's post kinda confirms my suspicion. Plus, it appears to have UV additives.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

I have used it recently on some of our newest Musky baits. It is very high gloss and working time is about the same as Etex. It is a little tougher than etex but not as tough as D2. It is thin and that is why I tried it. The jury is still out as far as what Musky teeth will do to the baits.....

Rod

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It should get here in about 5 years @$50 a half pint, you guys will have the bugs ironed out by then, I hope. pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

new lustre is what we use. it is thicker and dries more clear. we love it.. just remember to mix correctly and stir well.. we have mesky lures that have hunks taken out but the clear holds very well with no paint peel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

new lustre fumes are same as etex. there not bad in an area thats not constricted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i also use nu lustre as woodie does( thanxs for the tip oldtimer) lol, been using it for over a yr now and love it, it is between dv2 and etex as far as thickness, and is tougher then etex, just make to warm the bottles a little before using it!

Etch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just coated my first lure with it. Actually, I just put on the second coat.

I did notice that it seems to hold tiny bubbles longer, and has a tendency to make bubbles as I brushed it on, but they mostly go away.

Otherwise, it works just like Etex, and the first coat was clear and beautiful. I just want the extra protection of a second coat.

I wiped the lure down with denatured alcohol before I recoated it. Is that necessary?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Etch,

I'm using D2T on my topwaters now. Is there enough advantage to the Nu Lustre to warrant switching over? I havent found any problems so far with my D2T coated lures, but I've only been making/fishing them for 3 seasons now, so maybe there will be longer term issues?

Just so much about topcoats out there hard to know what is needed, whats overkill, whats "Ford vs Chevy" etc! D2T has worked well for me and so I am hesitant to change something thats been working.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wiped the lure down with denatured alcohol before I recoated it. Is that necessary?

Not if you're recoating it within 48 hours or so. After that, I'd scuff sand it before applying a second coat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Etch,

I'm using D2T on my topwaters now. Is there enough advantage to the Nu Lustre to warrant switching over? I havent found any problems so far with my D2T coated lures, but I've only been making/fishing them for 3 seasons now, so maybe there will be longer term issues?

Just so much about topcoats out there hard to know what is needed, whats overkill, whats "Ford vs Chevy" etc! D2T has worked well for me and so I am hesitant to change something thats been working.

Advantages would probably be less yellowing and easier, more forgiving, application. Durability should be comparable, with possibly a slight edge for the D2T.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Advantages would probably be less yellowing and easier, more forgiving, application. Durability should be comparable, with possibly a slight edge for the D2T.

thats it in a nutshell, have never had my baits yellow with nu lustre, dev is a little tougher, just not worth the headache compared to nu lustre, IMHO, and i recoat nu lustre baits, with in 12 hrs, makes it one super tough coat like instead of 2 seperate coats, in my experince

Etch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It should get here in about 5 years @$50 a half pint, you guys will have the bugs ironed out by then, I hope. pete

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

And here in a further 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

I wave a propane torch over the baits as they rotate and all the bubbles disappear.

Rod

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I have been corresponding with the guys over at swingpaints for a few years now and have been telling them about the need for an epoxy to suit the needs of lure makers like us.

The new formulation is the best one yet and is making it much easier to get a bubble free finish every time. It also has uv protection and while it was supposed to be "drip free" it does still require the use of some type of rotisserie while it sets up unless you flip the lures end over end manually.

It works great if you do what I do...

I set up my clear coating area with a piece of wax paper under where I hang the baits. After mixing the epoxy which is a 2:1 ratio of resin to hardner I pour the mixture onto the wax paper and let it sit for about 30-60 minutes during which time it will release most of the bubbles itself and will have a shorter working time (less drip time) which I prefer.

What I do is then brush the epoxy onto the lures and then use a plastic scraper to get the drips back into one puddle after a while so I can brush it back on. I have to do this until I redesign my drying wheel to accommodate my swimbait sections.

What I love the most about this latest formula is how it doesn't seem to get cloudy at all and rarely ever needs the use of a blow torch to pop any bubbles that form. It's extremely durable too and quite tooth resistant.

I order directly from swingpaints myself and I'm not sure if they have this new mixture on the shelves yet. I know that Home Depot carries the original Nu-Lustre 55.

Love to hear from anyone else that tries the product and I'll forward your comments to the guys at Swingpaints for them to get feedback on it.

I'm still working with them to create a truly drip free epoxy that you could brush on then not need to use a rotisserie as it cures. Hopefully it will come into fruition and i for one will be first in line to get my hands on it! :yes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snax,

I just finished my second, third, and fourth lures with the new 55, and it performed great.

I mixed up 4+ grams of it, one to one, and let it sit while I did a little D2T work on the spring tail holder on the two rat baits I made, and then coated all three baits on my wheel.

It was easy to brush on, and no bubbles.

It went on at 1:00 Saturday afternoon, and was set enough to fish with at 5:00 the next morning.

I'm curious. How much working time do you have with a two to one mix?

Also, can you buy the hardner separately, because, obviously, you're using it up twice as fast?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

This formula is sold with a larger bottle of the resin and a smaller bottle of the hardner so you will use them up equally.

It's a two part resin to one part hardener mix.

The working time is probably about 90 minutes or so. I have been letting it sit for about 50-60 minutes before brushing it on only because my drying wheel is out of commission and I want to reduce the amount of open time that it will drip off.

It's really good stuff to work with and very clear once brushed on with no cloudiness at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now