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Swimbait joints revisited (Again!) lol
27 replies to this topic
Posted 16 September 2008 - 08:47 PM
Good call on the hot glue as a filler/adhesive for the wire and eye screw holes. I am moding my prototype #3 to use ss thru wire. I am basically:
1) create a wire template (wood and nails) to pre-wrap a complete segment of wire that would pass through all segments of a swim bait. Interlock the wire at segment lengths.
2) this allows pre drilling and pre coating etc...just drill the thru hole for the wire and insert with wire and fill with epoxy or hot glue.
3) I am also using a swivel for the hook hangers. The wire simply passes through the swivel and then add a split ring.
This method is commonly used for "plug" type lures. Lots of detailed discussion at striped-bass dot com site.
This requires a little more pre planning, but once it is done right, it SHOULD work well. I like the ease of the eye screws, but I like the idea of not having to cut the slots for the double eye screws in each segment. Now to get this final prototype connected and tested.
What is the name of the router bit that can be used to route out the "V" notch in the back of each swim bait segment? Is there a special name for that bit?
Posted 16 September 2008 - 09:01 PM
The bit for notching I use is a double flute groove bit. There are a few angle options available. I think mine is a 90 degree but I've forgotten exactly.
I use a router table with a fence fence to guide the piece over top of the router bit. I set up the fence so that as I slide the lure on it's end to be routed, the bit passes exactly down the center of the lure body making a perfect notch in one pass.
I use a different bit to rout the opposite end of the body section that will fit into the notch a little once assembled. It's a 45 degree chamfering bit.
With this step I hold the section in a clamp and I make sure that the flat side of the lure is flush against the router table when flipping it over to do the other side. This is done in two steps.
Hope this helps.
Posted 17 September 2008 - 06:42 AM
Thanks for the explanation and the names of the bits.
That is exactly what I would like to do. Should make my build process quicker, more accurate and safer.
Posted 17 September 2008 - 06:58 AM
My pleasure Toad.
Be very cautious when routing and especially when routing small pieces. Definitely use a clamp to hold the pieces when using your chamfering bit. Even with a clamp I had a lure section fly up and crack me on the bridge of my nose.
I use a clamp with plastic grips that hold the work piece which I strongly suggest using. You don't want anything metal to accidentally contact the router bit while it's spinning. Good luck and safe woodworking.
Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:54 AM
I have been wanting to post this for some time now and this seems to be the right place. I have been cutting some of my lures out from a scrap of PVC bord brick molding. I have had the problem of my top coat cracking because the wood has not been seeled up well. Sence the PVC is a plastic, I thought that this would eliminate the water seaping in to the wood. It has worked so far. O.K. now for the joints. I had the idea of using wire leaders. The successful one was using a Titanium 7 strand leader material. I made sort of a mini leader with leader sleves and a loop on each end. Drilled the holes on each end of the sections of my swim bait, top and bottom. Placed them on the top of my swim bait to estimate (eyeball with a pen mark) a place to drill a small 1/16 hole for a pin made of stainless steel wire. Put the leaders in the holes in the ends of the bait, then placed the pins in through the top. With a much prayer, it worked. I can pull and pull and the thing does not budge. I used no epoxy, glue, or anything. The PVC sands, cuts, and shapes nicely. It does leave a bit of a "sandy" feeling to the unpainted bait. I have tested it many times, and it still works great. I have not caught any toothy monsters, however bass seem to like it as well. No problems yet. The Titanium wire is very stiff. The bait has a tight swim, yet still looks natrual. This is a 7in., 3oz swimbait, on a smaller trial, the wire was too stiff and I did not like it. Anyway, that is my experiment with swimbait joints.
Posted 17 September 2008 - 01:41 PM
I dimple (aka countersink) the holes for the screw eyes a little so I can position the segments together as close as I like. Hand wound screw eyes have lots of glue surface and can be any length you desire. I install the screw eyes in one segment after painting, purposely getting epoxy on the eyes so they remain stiff, then clearcoat the bait. Last step, clean out the eyes and join the segments. Use a Dremel with a small drill bit to remove any epoxy from the joint after curing.
Posted 04 January 2009 - 09:39 PM
As it turns out, swimbaits swim easier if the faces of the joint sections are either not angled or if the faces are concaved to catch more water.
I've been needlessly cutting angles on the face of my swimbait sections all this time!
Thanks to Mark Poulson for doing some tests on this. Now if you want high speed action perhaps the angled sections might make for less drag on the retrieve and make things easier on the angler.
Posted 05 January 2009 - 02:03 AM
From my "expert" observations (), the main thing is loose, easy moving joints, and especially a tail with a lot of movement.
Shake that booty!