If I decide to have baits molded instead of wood
10 replies to this topic
Posted 08 September 2008 - 10:20 AM
I'm considering having at least some of my baits molded from some sort of material so I can spend more time airbrushing and less time cutting,routing,sanding etc.
I'd like to get some suggestions on where I could have this done for me (someone here perhaps?) and what type of material to use.
As my baits are primarily large musky lures they need to be very tooth proof and be able to hold screw eyes securely. I suppose I could go through-wire if they are molded baits though.
There's the issue of buoyancy also. The baits need to float until weighted which also gives them stability and the correct orientation during the retrieve.
I saw somewhere that a guy made some large crankbaits for musky from molded fiberglass. Has anyone ever tried that?
Posted 08 September 2008 - 10:42 AM
There's a thread about 15 down from this one in which Jeep asked a similar question, and Captsully, for one, responded.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:00 PM
you could maybe try getting in touch with riverman i see he's doing a few plastic baits these days
Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:02 PM
I have spoken to Jed on the subject a little while ago. I know he's had some issues with different plastics and is experimenting still.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 03:45 PM
Snax. I have experimented a lot with the polyester resin (used in fiberglass). But I have not used the glass fibers in combination. Probably made around 200 bodies with it. There are two issues that will concern you:
1. Density, you already mentioned. Polyester resin by itself, has a specific gravity (SG) = 1.2 (water SG = 1.0). This means that it is heavier than water and will sink. To solve this problem, I added silicone micro spheres or micro balloons (MB). But in order to get down to a SG=0.7, I had to add a considerable amount of MB, This changed the once runny consistency of pure resin, to that of thick mustard.
This introduced two new problems, air bubbles and pouring. I found that with creative stirring techniques, I could get rid of most of the air and filled the rest with a household filler, after casting, flash drying with a hair dryer. A better and quicker solution would be a vacuum. Secondly, pouring the mustard paste is impossible. I overcome this problem with a plastic cake icing syringe, using the long nozzle. It worked well.
2. The material, with or without MB is very brittle. I deliberately dropped a 3" body onto a tile floor, it snapped at the lip slot, the weakest part. The addition of the glass fibers might solve this problem for you, but only testing will reveal the answer. Also, I do not know what effect the fibers will have on the density.
The problem I can see with the fibers, is mixing and pouring. Because of the mustard consistency, the resin may not penetrate the fibers. If you plan to place the fibers in the mold and then pour, the pour will probably just push the fibers to one side and not mix and permeate. Another solution would be to separate the fibers and cut into short lengths and mix into the resin prior to pouring. This seems to be the only workable solution, but the brittle test will reveal all.
I abandoned the resin, mainly because of the density. My target SG was 0.5, the equivalent of pine wood, in order to keep my lipped cranks lively and give me room for maneuver with ballast. I quite liked working with the material, once I got my system of tools and procedures sorted out, can get messy if not organized, everything must be to hand. Used with RTV molds, it works well, looks like plaster. Another advantage is that it is ready for working in an hour.
It was not necessary to through wire as it drilled very easily and tidily. Wear a mask when drilling and handling MB and good ventilation required for wet resin, gloves and mask required when handling the fibers.
Thatís all I got, good luck.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 05:39 PM
Thanks so much for sharing that information Dave!
I'll do some more researching into this idea of having baits molded for me.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 06:46 PM
I would look into whatever companies like 3:16 lure co use. If you through wired those baits they would be very tough. You might get some tooth rash though.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 10:55 PM
Hi Snax,I am molding some musky bait with resin for the past 4 years and the best stuff i tryed is the smooth-on feather lite!It work great!!Hard and solid,it flots,and easy to pour!I also use the smooth-on rtv to do my molds.If you need any help let me know!Cheers,muskydan
Posted 16 September 2008 - 06:08 PM
Dan your PM box is full and I'd like to talk to you about maybe having you mold some of my lures for me. Please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org so we can talk about it. Thanks!
Posted 17 September 2008 - 05:02 PM
small side note for vodkaman. If your poly resin is curing too brittle, try using a little less hardener.