Thad

Spraying your clear coat?

16 posts in this topic

I use Devcon and like it but would like to start spraying the cleat coat. What is your favorite clear coat brand to spray? I have read about DN and may give it a try. I just got a new Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and don't want to ruin it so should I just get a single action airbursh instead for the clear coat?

I'm sure this has been asked but I can't find a thread on just spraying, please just point me in the direction of that thread if so.

Thanks

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Hi

No need to PM. I do not spray epoxy but once replied to a thread quite a long time ago with a question about spraying epoxy because the place I buy my paints from do an aerosol can which sprays epoxy, it has a button on the bottom which you strike and that mixes/activates the epoxy which you then spray. I believe though you have to use the whole lot at once.

I have sprayed propionate sealer with my airbrush but found it turned the prop milky which wasnt what I wanted and no good for a top coat, I think that was due to the sealer drying too quickly.

Edited by philB
Typo

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Sorry Phil, I thought it was you, I know there is someone who sprays it - I have dipped and painted with it but never sprayed, those fumes smell too lethal.pete

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I use PPG DC4125 Ceramiclear.

It's expensive--- $200 a gallon but will rival any cleacoat on the market.

Shoot it thru an air brush

No turning on a drying wheel.

It sets pretty quick " no runs- no drips" so just hang it and let it dry.

Regards, Blades

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Recently started spraying DN. Love it even more than I did before. Cleanup is not nearly as bad as you'd think......just spray an ounce or so of acetone through the brush, then clean as you normally would. As long as you don't leave the brush laying around you'll be fine.

Definitely need good ventilation though.

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Clamboni, how many coats do you use? I was wondering how many it would take to get good depth to the finish when spraying. Thanks.

TJ

I spray 2-3 very light misted coats then 2-3 more heavier coats. The heavier coats are just heavy enough that you don't see each droplet and it looks smooth. Working good so far for me, but I'm only making bass baits. I just made a few that'll be used to target stripers so they'll be ready in a few more days. I'll have to wait and see how well they hold up to the bluefish.

The tow main things I like about spraying is you get thinner coats that don't fill in scale patterns, and also, between coats I only have to wait a couple minutes. If I have 5 or more baits that I'm coating, I just start the second coat on the first one as soon as I finish the first coat on the last one. It flash dries much more quickly. I also only thinned it slightly for the last batch of baits I painted. Seemed to be abel to spray a slightly thicker coat on without negative effects.

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if its on plastic or metal baits. i use automotive clear. its pricey but is very durable and shiny. i have spinner blades that have been outside in weather for 12 years. paints faded but the clear is like day 1.

dupont chromeclear 2500-s.

its a 4 to 1 mix.

dry time 4 hours.

bake time on metal

155degrees -3 minutes and cool.

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I use practically the same method as clamboni. I have a single action pasche I use to spray the DN. A couple of reasons: The single action is easier to clean, just spray some solvent through it, and you can get a larger volume nozzle ( I think an H-3 or H-5) and spray some pretty thick coats and cover more area. I use an H-3 nozzle most of the time because my baits tend to be smaller, bass baits.You can use the H-5 and mix and spray certain glitters with the DN. Just be sure to test the glitter in some DN before you spray and make sure it doesn't melt. And be careful with the high volume, cause you can make the DN run if you try to spray too much.

Jay

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I would definately like to try that Ceramiclear. I was wondering if the auto clear is a name brand or a reference to any two-part urethane used in auto painting. Lastly, can someone recomend a clear coat to go over laquer paint to protect it from the urethane top coat. I have not switched over to acrylic yet and have lots of laquer paint. And I would like to use up some air dry urethane. I am guessing just any acrylic clear?

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You shouldn't have any problems shooting clear automotive 2-part urethane clear over lacquer paint. There can be issues if dipping in uv cured urethane as described by Tim Hughes and there was a specific clearcoat applied to deal with that problem.

I think it was a PPG product also known as ditzler. All the major automotive paint makers have a comprable product if it is unavailable at your locale

Edited by KcDano

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I would definately like to try that Ceramiclear. I was wondering if the auto clear is a name brand or a reference to any two-part urethane used in auto painting. Lastly, can someone recomend a clear coat to go over laquer paint to protect it from the urethane top coat. I have not switched over to acrylic yet and have lots of laquer paint. And I would like to use up some air dry urethane. I am guessing just any acrylic clear?

Just scroll down to Ceramiclear and there's a Tech Sheet in PDF.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...c-04551702a5df

I have no adhesion problems and or bad reactions with this clear and I use laquer 99.9% of the time.

Regards, Blades

__________________

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Do you think that the ceramiclear would be durable enough o protect a wood lures vs the durability of epoxies?

I'm already set up for spraying urethanes for my airbrushing business so if it would work as well as epoxy I'd be willing to give it a shot.

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Thanks McDano and Blades..that is some helpful imformation. Still trying to get my head around the chemical situation, I have spent so much time on size,shape,weight,lip,etc...I have been fooling around for some time now but it really did not all fall together until a couple of years ago..(slow learner). So now I am focussing more on finishing out my investment in time, properly! This can make the work all worth while!

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