bigbass101

have you ever used this to seal wood baits?

11 posts in this topic

bigbass101    10

i met a guy online who i was going to use to airbrush my swimbaits he said to seal the wood to use virgin laquar thinner and put solo plastic cups in it stir it till they disolve and the mixter is like whole milk then dip my parts in it for 5-10 min and that you get a real nice plastic coat on the wood that actually seeps into the wood sealing it better

has anyone ever tried this?

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Snax    0

There have been many posts about this subject actually. Try searching for plastic dipping or something similar with the search function.

If you want some really good first hand information about doing it right and want the proper stuff, contact Swede here on the website. He'll hook you up.

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Snax    0

Here's what Swede had sent to me for how to use his Proprionate pellets...

Mix 1bag with 1 liter of acetone & thin it to milk like consistency

You can thin the one with least pellets in 1 liter too for first dip to penetrate deeper when soaking the lure.

Wait one day before painting after last sealer dip.

1. Get 3 glass jars with lid i use olive jars bout 6" high & 3" in diameter .or bigger to fit your bait sizes



2. Get a glass sheet in dim 1ftX2-3ft for drip protection for placing under baits during drying.



3. Make a hanger for baits to dry on 



4. Make S shaped bait holders for use as hangers on baits 



5. Get 150g of Probionate.



6. Get 1 liter=2 pints ofAcetone

*

7. Put 90 g Probionate in 1 of the jars fill up with Thinner /Acetone to 1" under lid 



8. Shake the jars to solve Probionate approx

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Jio    2

I use propionate-baced lacque also for my lures but only before painting.

I let my lures me on very thin lacque ca 24 hours. Then I let them dry one week and put weights to the belly and fill the weighthing holes.

After that I dip my lures several times firts in clear and after that white lacque and I let them dry (at least) another week.

All that because aceton evaporate a long time after the lacque felt "dry".

After painting I use one component, urethane based, concrete lacque.

Great stuff, don't burn or make paints flow and gives very hard cover to my lures.

http://www.obblers.com

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philB    10
I use propionate-baced lacque also for my lures but only before painting.

I let my lures me on very thin lacque ca 24 hours. Then I let them dry one week and put weights to the belly and fill the weighthing holes.

After that I dip my lures several times firts in clear and after that white lacque and I let them dry (at least) another week.

All that because aceton evaporate a long time after the lacque felt "dry".

After painting I use one component, urethane based, concrete lacque.

Great stuff, don't burn or make paints flow and gives very hard cover to my lures.

Jio-Aaput & -Erkit • Jio-Obblers & -Erks

Good point jio, I have found that prop really does take a long time to set properly, it dries in minutes but sets in days.

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cheesehead    0

I have had the solo cup / plasticware mixture crack many times on me. Since changing to the prop mixture this problem was greatly reduced.

I used the last of my solo cup mixture to seal a plywood divider that prevents my takle trays from spilling into the bilge on my boat. within a few weeks time the plywood and mixture had as many cracks as if I put nothing at all on it.

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BobP    832

Get the idea yet that there are lots of ways to do it? Yep. I seal mine with a 50/50 mixture of Devcon Two Ton epoxy and denatured alcohol, brushed onto the lure. Buy Devcon Two Ton in a 30 ML double syringe at most Walmarts for $2. Mix the epoxy first, then stir in the solvent.

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