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too much head shake?
10 replies to this topic
Posted 14 September 2008 - 08:47 AM
Im building 2 and 3 joint wake baits(similar to a triple trout) but in more realistic colors. anyways I semm to get alot of left to right head shake instead of just mid body and tail do you guys have any ideas?
Posted 14 September 2008 - 10:56 AM
can you show a picture of the bait you are making? How do you have it weighted?
Posted 14 September 2008 - 02:31 PM
The head section is too short and the tail section is too long, make another joint in the middle of the tail section and it should be ok.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 11:17 AM
I agree....also from this angle it looks like your joints are a little close. (could just be the pic)
Also for weighting I personally only weight in the 1st 2 sections with 65-75% of the weight being in the 1st section (I found this to really help the bait do a 180 and 360 degree turns when twitched)
Edited by boomah21, 15 September 2008 - 11:19 AM.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 02:44 PM
I've found that, in two joint baits, the farther forward the front section is weighted, the less the head wobbles. I use weighted hook hangers, and the second hanger is in the front part of the last section, but that doesn't affect the action. I get a flag flapping action from two section baits.
In three joint baits, I never weight the last section, and the head seems to be more stable because of the extra section.
My rear hook hanger is in the back of the third section.
I get a pronounced S shaped snakelike swimming action with three section baits.
This is what I've learned through trial and error.
I have no idea why it's true.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 02:54 PM
how do you guys decide how big to make each section? 1st being the biggest then smaller from there? Ive built a few others and there all wake baits and they swim good the large 4 section seems like it swims too much?
thanks for all the help. I would like to eventually sell these if i ever get a body shape and weight system that works. keep all the info coming!
Edited by bigbass101, 15 September 2008 - 03:15 PM.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 03:53 PM
I don't think there's such a thing as too much swim action.
A wildly swimming swimbait looks like a panicked baitfish or trout.
As for weighting, I just looked at the successful lures that are available commercially, tried to make my section divisions similar, and use their hook hanger locations as my guide.
I use weighted hook hangers, so I've already got 1/8oz ballast weight per hook hanger, and then just add weight near those points until I get the lure to sit in the water the way I want it. Basically, that's horizontal, either sinking or floating.
I don't know if there's a formula for it. Mostly, I think it's trial and error.
One tip is, don't do a final paint scheme and topcoat until you're really happy with how the lure swims. Seal, weight, prime, and test.
I've had lures that I finished completely, without a thorough testing first, hanging over my bench for years, laughing at me, and it's taken me a lot of will power to finally strip all the finish off and rework them.
Save yourself the angst, and test well first.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 04:09 PM
When deciding where to make my joints I use the 40/60 rule, which is the first section will be 40% of the baits entire length, and the remaing 60% can be divided up into two or three more sections, with the tail section being the shortest.
Posted 15 September 2008 - 06:21 PM
I just went to the gallery to check the proportions of the baits I posted there.
My 4 1/2" wooden body (6" overall with the plastic tail) 3 part baits seem to be divided in a 1/1/1 ratio.
My 6 1/2" (8" overall) and and my 8 1/2" (10 inch overall) 4 part baits seem to be divided in a 2/1/1/1 ratio.
Not sure why, except that the 10" was my first jointed bait, so I used that ratio, scaled down for the 8".
I drew the 2/1/1 ratio on my 6" bait after it was outlined, but before it was cut, and saw I would have trouble getting hinges and weighting in the sections if I made them that small, so I went to the 1/1/1 ratio, and it worked.
I've caught fish on all of them, so I know the ratio isn't that important.
But I do think that the bigger the head, and the farther forward the weight in it is distributed, the more stable it will be. I start with the weighted hook hanger as far back in the head as I can make it, and then add balast in the belly of the head moving forward until I have enough.
I really don't worry about the head being stable. The line tie will tend to pull it straight, and, if it is erratic, so much the better.
I try to remember that rear weighted lures, like gliders and top waters, are much easier to work in a walk the dog, or 180 degree retrieve, and try to keep the weight toward the rear of each section that I do weight, to make it less stable on the pause. Like a jack knifing truck, where the cab stops, and the trailers just keep coming.
Even with the 1/1/1 ratio, the heads on the 6" baits are also pretty stable, on a fast retrieve, and wiggle a little on a slower retrieve.
Not scientific, but it works out that way.
Edited by mark poulson, 15 September 2008 - 06:29 PM.