slingToad

Swimbait Prototype and body thickness question

6 posts in this topic

Great site. I've been making several swimbait prototypes and have finally arrived at a body style that moves well. I hope to use the baits for Rockfish here in the Chesapeake bay. I have been making mine about 8-10 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. The 2/1/1/1 length/segment ratio seems to work well.

Question:

For large baits like these, what thicknesses are you making your baits? I plan to make a few about 1" thick soon.

Thanks,

slingToad

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WOW!!! u guys like em thick!

I target blackies here in california so mine are a bit thinner. For my bigger baits 10 inches and above 3/4 is the bggest i have gone. I generally stay between 1/2 and 3/4 though. I have found size isnt really an issue its all about the weighting and sectioning of the bait. So use the size for the profile you are trying to acheive!

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I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc.

I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism.

Thanks for the replies,

slingToad

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I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc.

I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism.

Thanks for the replies,

slingToad

I agree on the actions of the flat profile baits being great! I was going to make all my swimbaits have the tapering body too but found that it made it trickier to use my router to do some of the steps I do.

When I have bodies molded for me I'll make them exactly like the real thing at that point.

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AGREED! Flat sidded baits have more action because they catch the vorticies in the water much better. I Use these flat sides for many of my baits that are always moving and usually very slowly. But for realism and deadsticking you have to go with the V shapped joints. You can still get good action and it is much more realistic just much harder to make. I have a 7 inch 5 flat cut jointed bait that i am testing right now and it is by far the most lively bait i have ever made. So all i can say is experiment and find what works for you! And show some more pics!!! :popcorn:

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