Jump to content
slingToad

Swimbait Prototype and body thickness question

Recommended Posts

Great site. I've been making several swimbait prototypes and have finally arrived at a body style that moves well. I hope to use the baits for Rockfish here in the Chesapeake bay. I have been making mine about 8-10 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. The 2/1/1/1 length/segment ratio seems to work well.

Question:

For large baits like these, what thicknesses are you making your baits? I plan to make a few about 1" thick soon.

Thanks,

slingToad

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

slingToadProto3.jpg

3716_thumb.attach

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW!!! u guys like em thick!

I target blackies here in california so mine are a bit thinner. For my bigger baits 10 inches and above 3/4 is the bggest i have gone. I generally stay between 1/2 and 3/4 though. I have found size isnt really an issue its all about the weighting and sectioning of the bait. So use the size for the profile you are trying to acheive!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc.

I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism.

Thanks for the replies,

slingToad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking a fatter wood stock would give me more room to cram in eye hooks and weight. Of course if I use smaller amounts of wood (thinner) I should need proportionately less amounts of weight etc.

I started out going for the "real" fish look, with curved profile for a real fish look head on, but I am so impressed with the action of the basic "flat" wood sections, I may stick with that for now and spend more time learning to seal/foil/coat lures for realism.

Thanks for the replies,

slingToad

I agree on the actions of the flat profile baits being great! I was going to make all my swimbaits have the tapering body too but found that it made it trickier to use my router to do some of the steps I do.

When I have bodies molded for me I'll make them exactly like the real thing at that point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AGREED! Flat sidded baits have more action because they catch the vorticies in the water much better. I Use these flat sides for many of my baits that are always moving and usually very slowly. But for realism and deadsticking you have to go with the V shapped joints. You can still get good action and it is much more realistic just much harder to make. I have a 7 inch 5 flat cut jointed bait that i am testing right now and it is by far the most lively bait i have ever made. So all i can say is experiment and find what works for you! And show some more pics!!! :popcorn:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top