Techniques you use to apply your clear coat.
23 replies to this topic
Posted 18 September 2008 - 04:23 PM
Iím looking for Tricks and Techniques that can help speed up applying the clear coat.
The way Iím doing it takes about 20 Ė 30 minutes per lure. So when Iím done with the three coats I have just about an hour Ĺ in each clear coat. Iím using Etex with the small art brush from the $ store.
Iím getting great results. But Iím just putting in a great deal of time into every bait.
Is there a better brush or are you dipping your baits?
Posted 18 September 2008 - 04:55 PM
Check out the tutorials section, there is one by 'Fatfingers' on etex. pete
Posted 18 September 2008 - 05:22 PM
Didn't use Etex, but used to use a multiple coat clear system that was pretty cumbersome. Switched to FlexCoat Ultra V for single coat coverage and could knock out probably 50-60 lures in that 1.5 hours with 5-10 lures per mix and probably just as high of quality of clear, if not better. If I ever quit manufacturing my own clear, I'd go right back to Ultra V in a heartbeat.
Posted 18 September 2008 - 05:32 PM
I'm not so sure if you will have access to the tutorials, as you are not a 'club member' yet.
But, as applying the top coat with a brush, should not take more than 3 minutes, I assume the rest of the time is spent rotating the lure manually, in order to keep the top coat level. This is good technique but I agree, rather tedious.
Above is a link to a search on “drying wheel motor”. Read the threads that refer to drying wheel or lure turner, for a variety of ways to construct this magical piece of equipment. Well worth the effort if you plan on making hard baits a hobby. This piece of kit will release your hands to coat ten more lures in the same time.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 09:51 AM
Hazmail, I have looked at all the tutorial spent 5 or 6 hours searching in the forum for hard baits. But I donít see anything giving hints on how they apply the clear. It seem like everything is about thinning it down.
Vodkaman, I canít open the link you sent. I have been around the block in lure building. I have been playing around with lures for over 15 years. I was on TU for the longest time using CKARREN but I lost my password and I donít have the email address that I had then. In the past two years I have made very little baits. You know it is kind of hard with 4 kids in all, all boys. Out of all the steeps I have in making my lures this is the one I love to hate. I love seeing the colors coming alive but I hate all the time I put into it. Iím making larger musky lures with a flat side. Yea I have done the smaller bass plugs and it only takes about 3-5 minutes. But my problem is if I rush my bigger musky lures Iíll get big puddles on the bait or a dry spot. I have enough time in the bait alone too go and throw it away because of the clear. That is why Iím asking for the help. I would love any help or anything you could throw at meÖ
Posted 19 September 2008 - 01:02 PM
I dont know why it would take that long but for me to do a swimbait @ about 10 inches and multiplpe sections it only takes 5 - 10 minutes...
I use D2T Epoxy... mix it in a pill cup and apply with a FLUX brush. The Flux brush is the cheapest disposable brush i have found and it has about 1/2inch surface area. Other than that i dont thin it or anything. I get some bubbles here and there but if your worried a light sanding and another coat and it is golden. Hope that helps!
Posted 19 September 2008 - 01:07 PM
I am currently using Nu Lustre 55 UV inhibited epoxy, but I have used a lot of Etex, in making my 6"-9" gliders.
I have a drying wheel that's two plywood wheels mounted on a rotisserie shaft, about 14" apart, with screw eyes on the opposing faces.
I mount my gliders on the wheel, using paper clips to adjust for the different lengths of the baits, and then coat them on the wheel.
With the paper clips, I'm able to rotate them enough while the wheel is off to get the epoxy on all the way around.
I use a soft 1/4' wide artists brush.
I let the mixed epoxy sit for a few minutes to let the air bubbles out, and then, if there are still a lot of bubbles, I'll hit it with the hair dryer, to make it more runny and let the bubbles escape faster.
I've heard of using a torch to get rid of the bubbles, but I've never tried it. My luck, I'd burn up my lure.
I've found a good light is important so I can be sure all of the lure is covered.
I try to cover the lure without putting too much on, so I don't get sags. Even with a drying wheel, sags can happen if you put it on too thick.
I usually put two coats on, so I don't worry about not having a thick enough coat the first time. I coat the lure, turn it on my 1 rmp wheel for 24 hours, wipe the lure down with alcohol, let it dry (hair dryer), and re coat, letting it turn for another 24 hours. The epoxy is stiff enough after 6-8 hours that I could turn off the wheel, but I just let it run all night in my garage.
When they come off the wheel, they're ready to fish.
I've found that the brush must be very clean, or residue that's in it from previous sessions will get into the finish coat.
I clean the brush with alcohol, and then with MEK. That seems to get all of the residue out.
I also make sure the brush is completely dry before I start to coat.
Any solvent still in the brush can ruin the topcoat.
With a strong light, I'm able to spot blank spots, or bubbles, or residue, and deal with them while the epoxy is still runny.
I also make jointed swimbaits, and, for those, I coat the insides of the joints with D2T first, since it sets quickly and is waterproof, and then, once it's set, assemble the lure and put in on the wheel for coating the faces with Nu Luster. I've found both the Etex and Nu Lustre are less brittle and tougher than D2T, and work much better for the faces of my wooden lures.
One thing I've found is that the D2T can still be tacky when a joint lets two pieces touch, so I put a small piece of scotch tape at any potential contact points.
And I coat the joints with Megastrike, or some other scent, before I fish them for the first time. For some reason, the fresh epoxy seems to stick to itself, even after it's cured hard and smooth, and the scent acts as a lubricant to prevent the joints from binding on a cast. I only need to do this the first time I throw that lure. After that, the joints don't stick.
Edited by mark poulson, 19 September 2008 - 01:11 PM.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 01:35 PM
Like I said Iím using the small art brushes from the $ store very small. I have attempted the 1Ē paint brush and that didnít work. I was thinking about the Flux brushes but every time I use a Flux brush for Flux I have a problem have bristles falling out in the Flux. I was not going to try and dig all the hairs out of the clear. Are you running into this or are you doing something to the brush? I think it has some to do with the big belly and flat side on my bait trying to put it on even. It seems Iíll have to work the flat edge or I get dry spots.
I know it should not take this long that is why Iím asking what people are using and I thank everyone for any help I can get.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 01:46 PM
First of all, beautiful lure.
Now, I use the 1/4" artist's brush because I also had issues with flux brushes. I clean the brush in solvent when it's new, and dry it with a cloth, pulling on the bristles to remove any loose hairs. I still get the occasional hair. I just watch for them, and pick them off while the epoxy is still runny.
The 1/4" brush puts the epoxy on fast, and it's easier to brush out and get good pressure on all parts of the lure than with the flux brush. I would never use a 1" brush, because I'd be afraid that I'd have trouble controling that much epoxy at once.
One thing Hazmail taught me is to wear latex gloves when I paint, to keep finger prints (oil) off the lure and avoid dry spots caused by the oil.
Edited by mark poulson, 19 September 2008 - 01:47 PM.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 02:32 PM
I never want to fool around with bristles, so I use the cheapo sponge brushes, you can pay a lot for them at a hardware store, or keep your eyes open and you can find deals on them in walmart and other places for a dozen or 20 or so for a buck or two. They don't collect dust or lose hairs. I use etex, and don't seem to have any trouble with dust or anything.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 02:47 PM
Thanks, Mark and Wayupnorth36
Mark, Iím also use a drying wheel. The brush that you are using is it like a horse hair brush? The one that Iím using is the cheep throwaway kidís art brushes. The bristles are the thick plastic type I donít know if this is my problem or not. Now for the curve ball when I clear the bait below I can have it done in about Ĺ the time if not sooner. It is a thicker bait and not as deep on the belly but I donít see why such a time difference. I think it is time to try some different brushes.
Posted 19 September 2008 - 03:51 PM
If your having problems with hair falling out try crimping down the metal band that helps hold the hair in place with a pair of pliers. by the way nice looking bait.
Posted 20 September 2008 - 05:26 AM
Tyjack. My link was to a search result for ďdrying wheel motorĒ, Sorry it didn't work. As you are already using a lure turner, it is irrelevant anyway.
I just crimp my cheap brushes by lightly tapping with a ball end hammer and tug the bristles to remove the loose. Painting a rough surface, like a brick with soapy water will also get rid of the loose bristles.
Welcome back to TU!
Posted 20 September 2008 - 01:40 PM
I think it may be horse hair. Dark brown bristles.
It was from a cheap set of artists brushes I picked up at a hobby store.
Sorry, I don't know the brand name.
Natural fibers are probably better than nylon, although I don't know that for certain.
In house painting, generally, nylon bristles are used for water based paints, because they don't absorb water, and natural bristles are used for solvent based paints. Maybe that holds true for epoxy, which is a solvent base.
I've never tried nylon bristle brushes for epoxy, because I didn't have any when I started, not because I'm particularly smart. Just got lucky.
Posted 21 September 2008 - 11:20 PM
Tyjack, I use Dick Nites exclusively now. I apply it with a 1/4" badger hair brush. This stuff goes on very smoothly, dries very hard. I apply 2 or sometimes 3 coats letting each dry 24 hrs. The badger hair is soft and applies the DN very well. Like Mark, I apply the clear coat after I put it on the drying wheel. I can apply it fast enough that I can stop wheel to hang another bait and apply coat to it and have never had a problem with runs in previous baits. Hope this helps.
Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:45 AM
Thanks everyone for all the helpÖ
Jamie, I have like a 20 pack of the Flux brushes. I think that is where Iím going to start.
Vodkaman, Iím glad Iím back on TU. Iím just winding down the mile long to do list from the wife plus Iím finishing up the new work shop. I now have a new 30íx30í workshop with a 10íx10í finishing room for painting and clearing my lures. Who said this hobby is cheaper than buying lures.
Mark, Iím going to try the Flux brushes and if it works I think Iíll get me a good set of brushes from the hobby store. Thanks for all the good input!
Captsully18, Iím very interested in trying the Dick Nites clear. It sounds like some good stuff.
Posted 23 September 2008 - 05:10 AM
Hey Corey, I remember your previous moniker, welcome back! I use a soft 1/4 inch Oxhair artists brush also for applying Dicknite's topcoat. Oxen throw a bit less of a fit than a badger when you pluck a few hairs from its back . captsully18 must be wearing some seriously heavy gloves when goes to obtain his brush bristles!
I can see how it would take you a while to brush E-tex on a big bait with a little brush and getting that perfect amount on. With Dicknite's topcoat one key is brushing it on quickly, but thoroughly, and not going back over what you've previously coated, especially so on a large bait.
I clean my bushes with alcohol, and then soap and water to keep them in tip-top shape. I very rarely get a hair in my clear coat, and when I do, I immediately remove it with tweezers that I keep handy when I'm clear-coating.
Posted 23 September 2008 - 08:44 AM
I tried to clear coat my baits with a badger comb whenever I CAN!!
WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!
YOU DA MAN DAVID
Posted 23 September 2008 - 12:04 PM
DUH, t'anks Rook. Dats nice of ya. Did ya notice that Dean saves all the loose hairs he picks offen baits? He saves 'em and puts 'em back in the handle of the brush when he finishes. Such a cheapskate . However, I must admit that he be the man.
Posted 23 September 2008 - 03:58 PM
Dean, ckarren stands for my name ďCorey KarrenĒ. I donít know what my password was and I donít have my same e-mail so I just setup a new account. Iím just glad to be back. I just canít wait until my new shop is all setup and I can get back to making baits. Two years ago I had my high of highs when my lure was on TV when a team I was sponsoring caught a nice fish in the Pro Musky Trail in front of the camera crew. That was about the time my wife and I had our 4th kid. He took over my room that I was using for finishing my baits. My wife didnít like it when I was painting and clearing my baits on the kitchen table. So I went idle for the last two years.
I think given that Iím from the badger state maybe I should use the badger hair. Maybe not I could see the Fish and Game locking me up because Iím taking hair from a state protected animal. The hard part is getting it to rollover on its back so you can get some of the softer hair. That is funny!!!