squirrel3495

swivel hook hangers

17 posts in this topic

Does anyone have any ideas how the TT hook hangers are molded in? I'm making a few different large swimbaits and gliders with feather lite and smooth cast 300 and would like to incorportate the swivel hook hangers to help land some more toads. Mark Poulson, your the man when it comes to TT's. You got any ideas.

Thanks to every one on this site. I've never posted before, but I've learned lots thanks to all of your generosity.

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Why not go the salmon way ?Use a regular screweye, splitring, swivel, splitring, hook. Or if you dont have alot of cash or want to stay with topoftheline material buy some swivels with snaps (best you can buy ) add a splitring between hook and swivel .This setup will leave less hookrash on your lures while they are in the boxes and when you reach for 1 you get 1 not 10

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The Triple Trout swimbait, instead of having a regular wire loop for hook attachment has a barrel swivel imbedding inside of it with just one of the loops exposed. The exposed loop allows the hook to rotate when a fish is hook helping prevent the fish from using the weight of the lure to throw. I wasn't sure Scott from 22 Century got the swivel inside the lure without filling the inside of the swivel with resin and preventing it from swiveling.

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I'm not sure how Scott does it. He probably has some weighed swivel made for him.

I've tried to think of a way to do it without fouling the swivel, but haven't figured it out, yet.

One way I toyed with is drilling out the center of an egg sinker big enough to put the swivel in, crazy glue it in, and then epoxy the egg sinker/swivel setup in. But I don't know how to keep the epoxy out of the swivel.

That's why his baits are so good. He knows what he'd doing. :worship:

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Mark, I was think something along the lines of coating the exposed half with something like candle wax, fitting it in the RTV mold, pouring the bait and then exposing the swivel to low heat to remove the wax. don't know how it would work but was just something I brain stormed up one morning.

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I'd be afraid wax might contaminate the epoxy, and make the bond weak.

The last thing I want is a hook hanger pulling out with a fish attached.

I guess, if I were going to try it, I'd just play around with trying to seal the bottom of the swivel with epoxy or thick crazy glue, and then gluing it firmly into the egg sinker ballast weight. That way, I could fill the hole for the hanger/ballast half way with D2T, slowly push the hanger into the hole, and, hopefully keep the epoxy from fouling the top of the swivel.

I'd probably play around like that in a test piece until I came up with a system that worked.

But, so far, the fish that have eaten my swimbaits, bless their hearts, have taken the belly hook, and swung the tail hook into themselves.

One took both hooks, from one of my 10" baits, sideways in her mouth, so she was kind of paralyzed. I skied her to the boat with not much fight, and into the net before she really put up much of a fight.

Good thing, too, because I was in my Tracker 175, and the wind was howling on the rocky point where I caught her. If she had made a big run I'd have had my hands full playing her while trying to keep my boat off the rocks.

She went almost 7lbs.

Oh, the agony..... :lol::lol::lol:

I just thanked my lucky stars, and kept fishing.

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Its more work, but why not cast the bait with the holes for the ballast weight incorporated into the mold. Then epoxy the ballast weight (pre drilled with a hole in the middle for the swivel) in, the stick the swivel in and lock it in place with a piece of metal inserted straight through the side through the top hidden part of the swivel. Then sand it flush. Since its featherlite you don't have to worry about it being sealed.

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do you use mold or wood? i just drill a whole 1 size bigger than the swivel use a paintbrush stir the glue in the hole so its sealed then measure how far you want the swivel to stick out and drill a small 1/16 hole through the body horizontal stick your swivel in the hole and use a pin to catch the other end of the swivel in the body

p-line makes some really nice swivels but they retail 6$ for a 2 pack

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To add a belly swivel I would suggest running a through wire. Drill the lure lengthwise. Then drill the hole for the swivel which must be tight to grip the widest part of it and thread the wire though from one end to other ensuring that you pass the wire through the top swivel eye and then wrap your wire at the back end of the lure to give you your back eye for attaching your hooks. You normal process of sealing, painting and topcoating should be enough to keep the swivel in place but it should still be mobile. You could also add a grommet around the swivel which might keep the paint and epoxy away from it enabling it to keep turning smoothly. Hope this makes sense.

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If you solve the problem of glue seepage into the swivel itself, and use a swivel with two split rings, then setting the swivel in a semi snug hole with epoxy will hold it forever. No need to through wire it.

Swivels with welded rings are stronger, and you can cut off the welded ring on the outside to put on your own split ring and hook. Just be sure to use a swivel that's strong enough for the hook, and whose holes are big enough for the split ring you plan to use.

If you want to use a smaller swivel, leave the welded ring on both ends, and just attach your split ring through that. It will make the hook swing a little more, but it will be strong.

P.S. If you solve the glue seepage problem, let us know how.

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