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Mad Eye

Help with molds (starting a business)

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Loving making my own plastics and have found that here in Australia there is room for a custom hand poured bait company.There are alot of production companys doing the same thing but we certainly have the range you guys have in the USA.

Just curious in what types of molds you guys with business are using. I Really want to get some custom molds made out of aluminum but got a quote to make a 5inch 5 cavity bait and they quoted me $2000 aud !!!!!!!!!

So unless i can get some quotes around the $500 mark i will have to make my own molds. So what are you using???? POP, RTV, DWP???

Im still having problems pouring consitently as i cant pour stright down the hole perfectly on smaller 3inch stick baits. Does a heat pot make it easier to pour. Think i just need to make some vent holes though.

Last thing would love to make some curl tail grubs but my 2piece molds never fill the tail and when i try 1 peice my plastic raises to high (over fills) making the tail to way to thick and not wriggle.

Thanks again guys and dont worry i wont be stealling any of your customers only plan on selling in Australia =)

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Dwp, RTV, PoP, they all work well and each have a good following. Each have pro's and con's too. A few searches should get you all the information that you could possibly need.

The problem with the grubs as that there is not enough weight of plastic to force the pour into the thin tail section.

Ghost posted a similar pour (successful) just a day or two ago. It was a larger body though. Check out the post and see the venting strategy.

If this does not work then you are either going to have to inject or vacuum the plastic into the tail. Lots of posts on this too.

Good reading.

Dave

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Ghost posted a similar pour (successful) just a day or two ago. It was a larger body though. Check out the post and see the venting strategy.

Dave

Seems that post is gone Dave.

Here is a 2 piece out of pop that works 100% of the time with super soft, regular and even saltwater plastic. Venting was accomplished with coffee stirring straws. There is some trim on the tail as the vents fill slightly. Not much though.

The vent at the end of the tail is vital as that is where the air will push to and not fill. The bait is a finesse bait that is only 4" in length. Not much plastic is used. I am getting ready to do 4 different styles of grubs in a 2 piece so I will be glad to pass along any info WHEN I am succesful on these. (Another $50 coming my way when I get these done!!! New reel is on the horizon as I still have the other $50 :yeah:)

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Jim

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Won't be long!!!!!! The one grub is extremely easy to mold, just has a flat pointed tail straight off the body. I never fish grubs but I think they call it a stingray grub. A single vent point at the end of the tail and that mold is set. Might do a full 10 cavity on that one right out of the gate.

The other 2 have the classic large, thin tails. Molded one today and planned my venting points carefully. We will see on Friday after the molds are sealed if it pours with the mold closed.

I have added a hole through the mold to help vent points in the tail. Pics of mold to follow (along with the clear, silver and black flake grubs!!!:lol:).

Jim

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Back to the topic of curl tails. Is it posible to do a two-color pour with this type of mold?

I saw on u-tube, a clip of a guy souldering skirts to spidergrubs with a souldering iron that had a piece of flat brass attached to it. He would slide the two pieces down either side the brass plate and then when they slipped off they stuck to each other pretty quickly.

Anyone ever tried this technique for making two-color baits?

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Must apologize that I have set the grub mold aside. Here is the bait and the mold I did.

new%20008.jpg

new%20009.jpg

I will get back on it and seal the mold and pour. Post results soon!

There are some companies that attach their tail via heat vs pouring them. You can tell as some get put on a little off. Those are the baits that catch the MOST fish!!!!

Jim

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I will actually end up drilling a smaller hole in the center of the curl tail. The vents can then push air to that area and out. Just have not done that either. :o

I have noticed that the more vents provided, the less the mold retains heat which is a big plus with a pop mold.

I will confess, in my attempt to get this bait to pour on the first try, I probably have overdone the vents. Cool thing is that it is way easier to plug a hole than to create one with a finished pop mold. I will plug some off as I pour to see how well and where the vents are really needed.

The tail on this grub is really thin though so I hedged my bet!

Jim

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I've used a lee pot for pouring led for quite a while and what I like about it the most is that when you put the mold directly up against the spout it actually injects the lead with the weight of all the contents in the pot. Would it help to use the same technique with pouring one of these types of molds from a presto pot? ... rather that pouring it from a couplle of inches away as I've heard of some people here doing. Just curious.

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Robalo01. Interesting point. To achieve a complete pour using this method, would probably require modification to the venting trategy. A bubble is probably going to force its way through the main body, so a vent adjacent to the sprue would be useful. I found this out when experimenting with vacu-venting.

Also, as the plastic is used, the head of pressure will reduce, changing the pour characteristics. If a bubble consistently forms, simply add a vent.

I think the idea is worth some trials and you should report back the results.

Dave

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I also think that the "weight" of lead disperses the air bubble much easier than the "weight" of plastic will disperse the bubble.

The vent near the sprue is GENIUS!!! Many air bubbles do emerge right at the sprue.

I looked over my mass of molds and found that I have ZERO mold with a vent placed near the sprue hole.

Jim

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Great thread guys... Keep thinking it through and bit more and see if there is any thing else that can be gleamed from this on going discussion.

Jim - the photos really add to the explanation of venting.

Dave - Some of the newer guys may not understand the "vacu-venting" method you are referring to; could you add a link to that thread?

Thanks and tight lines.

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