current project

[bigbass101]

heres my current swimbait

should i keep the weight in the back of each section?

weight all sections?

the plan is either a floater or very slow sinker and im gonna use a weighted hook hanger

thank you for the help, Ryan

any mods can delete my other post i dont know how

[BobP]

Maybe one of the TU'ers who build lots of swimbaits have better suggestions, but I doubt you can just look at a bait and decide where and how much to ballast it except through testing. Too much depends on the buoyancy of the bait "as built" and what kind of action you think is optimal. The several swimbaits I built had 3 body sections and a diving lip, no tail. They all seemed to work best with ballast in the rear of the 1st segment and the front of the 2nd, and no ballast in the tail segment (which tended to kill the swim action when I tried it). But that was just my experience - can't say how yours would behave with the same treatment. BTW - nice looking bait!

Edited October 20, 2008 by BobP

[diemai]

@ bigbass101

Alright , I almost don't have any experience concerning swimbaits , and I agree with BobP , that things are hard to tell from a distance !

So I would just suggest you to do what I do with almost ANY wooden lure(only on lures with slotted bellies for internal harnesses I estimate about the weight and glue it in with the harness prior to testing) , that I make , no matter , if new prototype or proven model :

TEST IT !

I first cut a strip of roofing lead sheet approx. 2/3" X 6"(depending on general lure size) , bend it to a "U"shape and hang it onto the belly hook of the pre-assembled and temporary sealed lure .

In a waterbucket I can determine about the sinkrate of the lure this way , cut off lead to decrease sinkrate or cut a new , longer lead strip , if lure still floats up too much .

If you have chosen the right amount of weight , use that leadstrip as a template and cut out a second strip(in case , you'd mess up the first by wrong separating) .

You might as well use it as a weight reference for leadshot or sinkers , if you'd prefer these as lureweights !

Now comes the harder part , you must determine about the location of the weights on the lureblank .

I first estimate and cut off a sufficient part of my leadstrip and roll it up tightly to a "drum"-shape , after I'd stick it onto estimated location on the belly with some plastic tape(cable insulation tape) .

This way I temporary bond the entire lead to the lure and test it's action in a bathtube , I'd fool around with the weight locations , until I'm satisfied .

In case , that I separated the lead strip into wrong portions , I still have that second one to start all over again , or even cut out a third one !

After I'd mark the determined locations with a felt pen , swage those lead rolls real tight and round with a hammer on a steel plate , drill approbiate holes and epoxy them into the body .

If uncertain , you might as well use that mentioned plastic tape(comes off a laquered , wet surface quite easily) to stick a temporary wire toweye(shaped similar to a rod guide) to different locations to see what works best for you .

I know , this testing is always a PITA , but it would surely be worse to mess up the entire work on a lure , when it comes out a reject at the very end due to wrong balance:( !

Good Luck , diemai

[Jeep]

Hey Ryan,

My guess it is better to keep all of your weight toward the front section as this will allow more 'swiming' movement of the joints. And I would also first try to only put lead in the front and mid section. Keep te tail free of weight. And still: yes it's much trial and error.

Succes!

Grtz