Jump to content
My First Photo Finish Bait & Questions
46 replies to this topic
Posted 04 November 2008 - 01:21 PM
I was trying to help with a better photo finish starting from the same image, but after seeing your second photo finish, I think you know better than myself how to play in photoshop. Anyway, here are the images (I also modified the shape a little bit):
As to the problem of recovering your bait in your first post, I think you got the best advice from DSV - just make another one. I think it is impossible to sand a photofinish without damaging it.
As to solving the problem of Devcon beeing brittle, the best way, in my oppinion, would be to cover it with a less brittle clear. Try several until you find the best.
Posted 05 November 2008 - 07:20 AM
I should have phrased this as a question. Do you guys think I should do a 2nd coat of D2T before the Dick Nites, or will a coat of DN adhere the eyes to the bait like D2T does?
Posted 06 November 2008 - 12:14 PM
A second coat of D2T is really your call. I would go strait to DN and probably coat 2-4 times. This stuff is so thin that several coats are not going to affect the weight, and each coat makes the finish look deeper and deeper. Just remember to get it on the turner asap so it can even out. Additional coats may be added in as little time as 20-30 min. Full cure will be 24-48 hrs. but if in a hurry may be fished sooner.
Sinbad, for a finish like this I really like using Envirotex as a first coat vs. D2T. The envirotex is thinner, clearer, and will even out better. Only downside is that the envirotex is slightly more brittle than the D2T. But the DN provides a durable protection for all of it. By all means experiment and find what works best for you. You are gonna have your hardbaits looking as good as your lead in no time.
Posted 06 November 2008 - 05:57 PM
i've had one educated attempt at photofinish so far, with some good guess work too. I used 2 coats of D2T. These are the steps I tried.
1. glue photo down on bare balsa
2. ensure that the photo is as smooth against the bait as possible
3. first coat of d2t
4. sand rough edges at top and bottom of photo
5. apply paint to cover up photo edge
6. final d2t
this worked well (once I get a good pic of my bait ill put it in gallery) and you can barely tell there is a photo edge there. From what I've experienced so far, its harder to blend paint on a photofinish (match colors/scale patterns) than it is to actually paint an entire bait. But its as real as it gets.
BTW, really like the last bluegill bait you posted.
Posted 13 November 2008 - 11:56 AM
Thanks to everyone who advised me on repairing my first photo finish crank. But as expected I have abandoned those first 2 cranks and moved on. In the past week I have made some changes to my technique and I think the baits are progressing nicely. And I just got my Dick Nites in the mail and am experimenting with that too.
Here are the 2 latest ones. I added a drop shadow to the gill plate to give some depth to it and I think the image is applied to the body better:
I also tweaked the image and applied it to a similar but different crankbait body. This shape is more like the bill lewis rattle trap shape:
I also applied the same image and technique to a 2 1/4" crankbait body. I don't like these eyes on it so I am going to get some different ones for the next version. I am psyched to see how this swims:
Thanks again to everyone for helping me with this and everyone who has shared info, photos, tutorials, etc.
Edited by LooksLikeSinbad, 13 November 2008 - 11:58 AM.
Posted 13 November 2008 - 12:30 PM
Perfect images and perfect lures. How long did you say you've been in the business?
Just tell us pls. what clear is there on those lures. Looks very nice.
Posted 13 November 2008 - 01:03 PM
Those look great!!! Where do you find the sticker sheets I would like to try this!!
Posted 13 November 2008 - 01:27 PM
I have only been making these baits a couple weeks, but I have been using photoshop for many, many years so I have a real advantage in that department.
These have 1 coat of d2t and 1 coat of dick nites. I am planning on adding more dick nites though.
Posted 13 November 2008 - 08:28 PM
great job it looks like a real bream i know you will be makeing more i would its one of the best lures i have seen in a long time
Posted 13 November 2008 - 11:52 PM
AWESOME faux finish, if I can ask- How did you get the seam so nice and clean cut on the bottom of the bait?
Good baits, keep em comming
Posted 14 November 2008 - 06:20 AM
I have a buddy that specializes in taking fish pictures (he got real good at it doing his PhD @ purdue while photographing age 0 whitefish, which are a smidge over an inch long). Anywho, as a trade-off I'm helping him make some giant plugs for arctic char and he's providing extremely detailed images for me (ex: 1" whitefish can be blown-up to a poster and be crystal). I've done one photofinish so far and it came out pretty good. However, the fish (fathead minnow) had a totally different body shape than my crank. This required a lot of tweaking as far as sizes went b4 we got a bait with similar size specs. Also, I had to do some hardcore airbrushing to get it to blend. My question is:
Is there a way to punch in a specific area (outline of my crankbait) and have it stretch/compress the image vertically on photoshop?
BTW, that rattle-trap style lipless bait is insane! Very nice, very nice indeed!
Posted 14 November 2008 - 07:58 AM
There are infinite possibilities to modify a picture in photoshop - color, size, contrast etc
To compress the image size you go image/image size, then you chose not to constrain proportions for width/height, and then you introduce the new values for width and height. How much you will reduce them depends mainly on how thick the lure will be ( to compensate for the roundness of the lure). For instance, I usually reduce both width and height by 8%, then I reduce again the height by another 20%. But the new width and height depend on other things too. So you have to make several trials.
After reducing the width and height, I print the image (I only need the outline of it, so I can type the name of the fish in the middle), glue it on soft metal sheet, cut it out, file/sand the edge, and this is how I make the stencil for the respective fish photo ( to trace the outline of the lure on the wood).
Here is an example. I hope the pictures will not be automatically resized:
Sorry, these 2 won't go together. I just reduced the 2 images, to be accepted by TU. But they are not proportional. Anyway, I guess you have an adeea about how to proceed.
This is just a little thing you can do with photoshop. I would like that LooksLikeSinbad could tell us how he created that beautiful image.
Posted 14 November 2008 - 08:33 AM
right on rofish! I personally "don't know jack" about photoshop, but I'll let my bud check it out (I'll have to open the pics on his comp too). One thing I am definately amazed w/ is the fact that lookslikesinbad got the image to completely wrap the bait! No PAINT! As much as I enjoy painting, I'd prefer not having to combine the two (I found it really tested my airbrushing abilities trying to blend a photo w/ paint). It seemed more challenging than just painting a whole lure.
quick question too:
has anyone tried photofinish on sebil magic swimmers?--- see where I'm going w/ the image adjusting...
anywho, thanks for the info! can't wait to try it out. I find its impossible to ever be satisfied (for too long) w/ baits, they always leave me wanting more! crazy addiction.
Posted 14 November 2008 - 08:55 AM
I think this way you can easily open the images. I transformed the PSD images in JPEG images. And now they match together. One more thing: this is a new image I created, not tried it yet, so I hope the proportions between the image and the template are right (for 14 mm thick wood).
And here is a photofinish belly without any paint on it. I simply cannot understand how LooksLikeSimbad could make the same thing from the second attempt. It took me some years to do so.
Posted 14 November 2008 - 11:05 AM
The seam on your example above is much better then mine. I can tell it took years for you to get it looking that good. Don't forget that mine has epoxy on it and that makes it look better.
Posted 14 November 2008 - 11:18 AM
I applied the sticker to one side of the bait and rounded out the edges and trimmed it with scissors as I went along. Then, on the 2nd half I rubbed down only on the middle part first. Then, I would go around the perimeter of the image trimming it with the scissors and rubbing it on with my finger. My seam overlaps, it does not butt up against each other like Rofish's. I think the fact that the belly has a scale pattern helps cover up the seam. I used photoshop to extend parts of the image that did not cover the lure properly.
Here is a lower-res version of my templated version:
For reference, here is a smaller version of 76gator's original bluegill image. I experimented with a few others but for some reason this one works really well:
On mine you can see that I cloned scales from the belly and tail below them to fit the lure better. I also made the belly orange. You can also see that I added the drop shadow to the gill plate to give it more depth. I also saturated the colors a little bit to make it richer.
See the red outline? That is my tracing of the bait that I scanned in as a guide. I turn that photoshop layer off before printing but I can turn it back on to use as a reference when i am applying the sticker.
Edited by LooksLikeSinbad, 14 November 2008 - 11:21 AM.
Posted 14 November 2008 - 12:00 PM
True. When it comes to tweaking an image to fit on a bait, I would recommend experimenting with: EDIT -> TRANSFORM -> SKEW/DISTORT/PERSPECTIVE This will allow you to resize your image in non-uniform ways. For example, if you want to make the tail part of the image larger but not the head. Also the WARP option can help with this.