bigbass101

7" super spook

4 posts in this topic

just built one from 1-1/4 poplar dowel i was wondering where you place the weights so that it sits correct in the water to "walk the dog" when you retrieve it

my guess is farthest towards the tail as possible?

and does line tie placement make a difference?

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@ bigbass101

I have already made some spooks in smaller sizes 2" to 5 1/2" , so I surely gained some experience with them , also have a couple of different brand commercial ones !

One of these commercial topwaters from the "Berkley Frenzy" series , has unlike all others its line tie at the very tip of the nose , which I don't like , since it causes the lure to dive approx. 2" under the surface on ocassion .

I much prefer the toweye to be located under the chin of sucha lure , so it always remains surface on its "walk-the-dog" course .

Furthermore I have found out on my homemades , that the more towards the rear the weight is placed , the sharper the sideward break-outs of the lure would be and the less distance it would glide . I have placed a carved-to-shape inline sinker directly under the tail screweye on one lure , so I found out about this .

With a weight placed more towards the body , the brake-outs won't be as sharp-angled , and the glide would be a bit longer .

If you look at the old traditional "Heddon Spook" body shape , I have place the weight at the rear transition of the round body to the tail taper , so in about 1/4 body length from tail .

I guess , if weight is placed still further away from tail , the lure won't perform well anymore ?

There is a thread in here "questions to our european members" , dealing on a topwater stickbait , I guess , one or two posts there contain some info about weighting stickbaits as well .

maybe , this could help ,

greetz , diemai

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Weighting Walk the Dog baits......

We build some top water WTD style Musky Baits. We make 7, 8 and 10 inchers. They are made from cedar and are turned on a lathe starting with 1 1/2" square stock. They are tapered with the head being 1 1/8" down to 1/2" in the tail for the 7 and 8 inchers and a little bigger diameter for the 10 inchers. We then soak the blank in sanding sealer and let dry. Next we drill a hole with a 3/8" forsner bit straight in the tail of the bait about 1 inch long. We then attach a 1 1/2" screw eye in the middle of the hole. We then melt 1/2 oz of lead and pour it in the hole around the screw eye. The end is sealed with epoxy, the other screw eye is added and then prime, paint and top coat. This seems to be the perfect weight for this bait. They turn out to be 2 1/2 and 3 oz. with two 4/0 VMC trebles. These baits have awesome action, very easy to work and Muskies love em. I have caught some huge smallmouth on these while fishing for Musky.....With the 10 inchers we use 3/4 oz lead. These end up about 4 oz or so and three 5/0 VMC trebles. Because these baits are heavier than most commercial WTD topwaters they don't blow out as easy on a strike from below and you get much better hook ups. All of these baits have the line tie approximately 1/4" under the nose of the bait.

Rod

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I don't see how you can decide how much and where to do it without float testing the lure with trial ballast weight so that you get the float attitude you want. Different strokes for different folks, plus the shape and weight of your bait is probably different from all other baits. I personally like a walking bait to sit tail down at 45 degrees in the water. Some like more, some less. My 5 incher has the ballast forward of the tail about 1.5 inches. I also like the line tie underneath the chin.

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