7 replies to this topic
Posted 03 November 2008 - 03:30 PM
Looking for some advice/insight here on topcoating. I have been making baits for a limited time now and up to this point have not encountered any issues with the topcoat cracking or chipping unless I banged a bait on the rocks. I am currently sealing with solo cups dissolved in virgin laquer thinner and topcoating with d2t. I know that epoxy is somewhat brittle and probably not the best topcoat, but is obviously used a lot by luremakers here. I also now know, thanks to a recent post here, that the sealer mentioned can also crack. So here is the problem. I am fishing this weekend and hit nothing but water all day, no rocks or docks. After fishing the bait for thirty or so casts I see a huge crack the length of the bait. During the next 10-15 casts the finish basically deteriorates with cracks and chipped d2t all over the bait.
My question is two-fold and I know there is a ton of info here if I do a search but let's see where this goes. First, how common of a problem is this using this sealing and topcoating method? Second, what is your favorite combination to deal with these two parts of crankbait making?
Posted 03 November 2008 - 04:49 PM
First problem is the sealer (solo cups). When all the solvents evaporate and the plastic cures you are left with a very hard and brittle shell sealing the bait. The method is not the problem. It is the product you are using. Don't use the Solo cups. They cure way to hard and brittle for what we are doing. Try the Propionate if you want a sealer that you can dip. It is the same principal as the Solo Cups but the hardness is perfect for wooden and foam lures.
If you want a sealer that can be brushed on there are a lot of topics on thinned epoxy.
Topcoat of Devcon... Devcon is very hard and brittle also. Use it with a very brittle sealer and you will have problems with cracking.
My preference is Propionate wood sealer, Lacquer (solvent based) paints and Dick Nite Urethane (sprayed) or Propionate as a topcoat.
This makes a very strong bait no matter what type of wood you work with.
Posted 03 November 2008 - 08:04 PM
I use Devcon 2T mixed 60/40 with denatured alcohol or propionate disolved in acentone for undercoating. Never a problem with either, clearcoating with D2T or Dick Nite poly. I have to believe it's your undercoat that is causing the problem, but I've never used it.
Posted 03 November 2008 - 09:59 PM
What do you use for eyes if you topcoat with propionate? The acetone or lacquer thinner will damage plastic eyes, right? Does that mean you are limited to painted on eyes or glass eyes?
Posted 04 November 2008 - 03:04 AM
I use propionate lacque (clear and white) only for priming, over the painting I use clear polyurethane based concreate lacque, which give very hard cover to my lures.
That concrete lacque "fits" for everything I've used without burning or floating; eyes (stick-on and plastick or glass ones), paints which are thinned by aceton (and I know that waterbased airbrush colors works as well).
AND I don't need any drying wheels because I can just dip my lures to the lacque several times. No need to use any epoxies or 2 comp. lacques for covering and my lures are "enough" tooth proof for pike fishing.
Posted 04 November 2008 - 05:24 PM
Most of the time I am painting wood baits and I just paint the eyes on. The times that I have done repaints w/ plastic eyes I just topcoat with Dick Nite (airbrushed). When I am topcoating with propionate I spray either clear lacquer or airbrush a coat or two of propionate over the paint job wait a few min. and then dip my topcoat. 3 or 4 dips in the propionate 15+ minutes apart will give a great topcoat.
One tip for Propionate topcoats... If you are having trouble with the topcoat blushing (turning white because the solvents evaporate too fast), just hang the lure in an empty jar just after the last topcoat dip. I put 3 or 4 drops of acetone in the bottom of the jar before I hang the lure on final dip. This will give a crystal clear topcoat every time.
Posted 04 November 2008 - 10:01 PM
So will a coat or two of clear lacquer protect plastic eyes enough for a prop dip topcoat? I am going to use the prop topcoat either way, I just want to know before I go buy plastic eyes.
Posted 05 November 2008 - 04:56 AM
PB - I like it, I have had that problem in the past and gave up on it - a miniature fume cabinet, what a great idea. Thanks pete