see "Gonystylus sp " on this site http://www.worldagro...ts/AFDbases/wd/
which was posted by 'Rofish'. pete
Edited by hazmail, 13 November 2008 - 04:46 AM.
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3 inch baby bass wooden topwaters I turned...
30 replies to this topic
Posted 13 November 2008 - 06:40 AM
Guys, The wood I'm using is light weight and high flotation. The problem is this. It starts out at 1/2 in diameter max, Then I taper the head 1/2 in into the body. Then I taper the tail 1 in to the back... Thats 1 1/2 in of material removed. Only leaving 1 1/2 at full diameter. Not alot of wood here left.
Now I clear them before paint, Paint, rhinestone eyes, then clear them again.
Then add 3 screw eyes, 3 split rings and two hooks... The floating problem is just not enough wood for the weight added....
I could try painting before the first clear coat, make the bait 1/2 in longer, use smaller hooks and split rings, etc...
These baits are alot smaller than the pics make them look.
I do not have a lathe, I'm turning these in a drill press with a 1/2 in chuck. Therefore another reason I dont want to go to 5/8 dowels. 1/2 in is perfect for what I'm trying to achieve.
I tried using elmers glue as a wood sealer before I painted as someone reccomended here... My paint all cracked on the white base coat even after 2 heavy coats. I'm not sure that just painting the raw wood is an option....
Posted 13 November 2008 - 07:32 AM
Hey 21, I live in Garden City. Wheres a good place for paints around here?
Posted 13 November 2008 - 07:48 AM
I used to use elmers for this purpose, but I was informed that it was not waterproof. However, I doubt that it is causing your problem, unless you did not give it a full 24 hours to dry.
The problem could be an incompatability between your base coat and your colors. If not that, it could be also that your base coat is not fully dried. I suggest you tell TU what paint combinations you are using and let the experts help.
The sealer coat serves several purposes, #1 is to seal the wood, making it waterproof. #2 is to add some strength to the wood, especially for lighter woods, like balsa. #3 is to hide the wood grain, providing a good level surface to paint on.
Currently, I am using fibreglass resin to seal. But it too has waterproof issues, so I am not recommending that. A lot of TU members use thinned D2T, some use propionate. But what ever you use, you cannot rush the process. Allow 24 hours before painting. I am still searching for a suitable seal and to coat, Clemmy has pretty much convinced me that prop is my direction for both.
Painting direct onto the wood, no matter how smooth you sand it, is going to give an amateur finish, with the wood grain showing through.
Nice art work
Posted 13 November 2008 - 08:00 AM
Believe it or not... I get my Acrylic Plaid Folk Art paint from Michaels, JoAnnes, craft store or Wal-Mart. I thin it to a milk like consistancy with water. I use a cheap air brush set. I have not had any trouble with the airbrush clogging. I use a piece of copper craft wire to put in the bottle opening to seal the left over paint. Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
I did not let the elmers dry for 24 hours. I did thin it with water to put a lighter coat on it. It seemed very dry and it still crackled the basecoat.
Posted 13 November 2008 - 06:58 PM
@ Hazmail , @ mark poulson
Hi Pete and Mark , thanks for your posts here and sorry for hijacking the thread a bit , but here is a pic of the two kinds of broomsticks , that I've mentioned .
The lighter one is the one for topwater lures and buoyant cranks , the other , darker one is similar looking to teak and way heavier , but I guess , that the lure , that I'm presently working on , would still float up a bit without any weights added .
Maybe , now you could figure out better about it ?
Greetz , Dieter
Posted 14 November 2008 - 09:52 AM
I don't recognize the lighter wood, but the darker one looks like the Malaysian hardwood we use here for exterior decking. Really heavy and hard, like teak, and greys when it weathers.
I have a lot of it sitting in my lumber storage area left over from different projects. I'll have to give it a try for lures.
Posted 07 December 2008 - 10:30 AM
The dowels I bought from home depot float much better than the dowels I bought at the craft store... I can use any hook I want now.
Posted 07 December 2008 - 06:20 PM
Gettin BETTER!!!!!! Holy Crap those are great!!!!!!!! I wish I had the skills to paint like that. I'm lucky to powder paint my jigs LOL
Posted 07 December 2008 - 06:40 PM
This is what I was trying to say.......one has to look around !
Good success with your new dowels:yay: !
greetz , diemai
Posted 07 December 2008 - 08:00 PM
I'm proof that practice will teach anyone to paint.
The action and profile catch the fish, the paint job catches the fisherman.
An oversimplification, for sure, but if you get the action and profile right, you can be "close enough" with you color scheme and still catch the fire out of the fish.
Take a look at the first Triple Trout lures. The maker just did a prototype paint job to test it, and it caught them so well he just kept it that simple for years.
So don't dispare. Paint. Like most anything else in life, the more you do it, the better you get at it.