spoopa

help with scaling

16 posts in this topic

I have been using webbing for my fish scales and my biggest problem is that i always get messed up at where the lure bends. So what im saying is that i can only get the scale on the flat sides of the lure. Well my question is how do you guys get your scale finish to a apply to the sides. I have been searching past forums and cant find anything.

Thanks, Jake

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try wrapping your scale around your plug and at the belly of your lure clothes pin the scale together, the scale material will not move when your working and will stay tight to you lure.

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I have some small clambs looking exactly like laundry pegs , but they are only a bit longer than 1" .

Don't ask me , where I obtained these many years ago :huh:, maybe it was some kinda "cheapies" shop , this kind selling all kind of low quality stuff for little money .

You might as well check sources for RC-modelmaking . I think , for plating wings of model airplanes with that special paper foil one needs some sort of small clambs , but not too sure about that:huh: !

Greetz , diemai

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I use some clamps that you can buy at an artist shop wich are used to hold papers to a board while sketching. But laundryclamps will do also.

Just make sure to clamp real tight and don't remove until the paint is really dry.

Grtz

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I assume you're talking about airbrushing a scale pattern onto a lure.

What kind of lure are you scaling?

I use small clamps I purchased at Home Depot. They are about an inch long and slightly weighted. Wrap the scale around the lure and use the clamps along the bottom to hold it in place . With 4-5 clamps, the weight is enough to keep the scale from moving.

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Like everyone has said you need to wrap it around and pull it tight.

However, I have some netting that won't stretch very as it looks like each netting cell is bonded and doesn't allow it to stretch. So, well I use that netting to do sides only. I mention this because you might have that same type and you are fighting a loosing battle with it. So just make sure it conforms to the bait if you just wrap it and nug it up using your own fingers hands ...

And I will say that from time to time if I am spraying only one bait and because I am spraying Acrylics and because I have big hands, I will often wrap it and hold it by hand, spay it, set the airbrush down, grab a blowdryer and flash dry it so I can remove the netting. Not sure if I can recomend that for every one and especially if you are using paints with solvents.... heck the acrylic is bad enough to get on you all the time as it is.

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My limited experience with netting, is that when it is new, it is quite stiff and will only bend in one axis, like paper. But after a few cycles in the washing machine, it loosens up and will form with more success, around the double curvature of a lure.

Just sneak it into the linnen basket a few times. Nothing to lose.

Dave

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Not sure if I can recomend that for every one and especially if you are using paints with solvents.... heck the acrylic is bad enough to get on you all the time as it is.

You might want to try latex or non-latex gloves and save you hands... pick up a few "free samples" during your next visit with your Health Care Professional. Remember, if it was perfect, they wouldn't call it a practice.

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I assume you're talking about airbrushing a scale pattern onto a lure.

What kind of lure are you scaling?

Correct i do have a air brush. The lures that i am painting are top waters and swim baits.

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I use clothes pins, and ture the lure up side down. I cover the back bone with another color, so if it isn't tight, it will be covered. Good luck Doug

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I bought a box of 80 pin curl clips for $2.99 at a beauty supply. Then just bent the prongs off real short. Just a couple back and forth bends. Makes for a lightweight, short, strong hold. ;)

TRS-9098.jpg

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21XDC- like it, what a great idea, and like you say shorten them and increase the grip- good thinking .pete

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What I've been doing for a while now is sort of a little different but it works for me...

Firstly I lay the bait to be airbrushed onto a metal tray which has a piece of wax paper on top held down with magnets. I also use more magnets to hold down a piece of my mesh material that I lay over the bait. I move the magnets as needed to stretch the mesh tightly where I want it.

I rarely if ever add the scale pattern to the very top and bottom of a lure so I've found that doing it this way allows a nice fade to my solid colors as the overspray carries over the top and bottom as I paint.

I do one side at a time.

The reason for the wax paper is so I don't have the bait stick after I flip it to do the opposite side. Of course don't lay the bait down while it's still wet! I use Auto Air paints and use either my heat gun or a blow drier to gently move air across the lure to dry it before removing the magnets and peeling the mesh away. I remove the mesh just after the paint flashes dry but before it is absolutely set. Don't want it lifting at all.

It is definitely a unique way of doing things but it's worked well for me and especially on oddly shaped baits and swimbaits sections in particular which can be tough to airbrush sometimes because they blow away on you! lol

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What I've been doing for a while now is sort of a little different but it works for me...

Firstly I lay the bait to be airbrushed onto a metal tray which has a piece of wax paper on top held down with magnets. I also use more magnets to hold down a piece of my mesh material that I lay over the bait. I move the magnets as needed to stretch the mesh tightly where I want it.

I rarely if ever add the scale pattern to the very top and bottom of a lure so I've found that doing it this way allows a nice fade to my solid colors as the overspray carries over the top and bottom as I paint.

I do one side at a time.

The reason for the wax paper is so I don't have the bait stick after I flip it to do the opposite side. Of course don't lay the bait down while it's still wet! I use Auto Air paints and use either my heat gun or a blow drier to gently move air across the lure to dry it before removing the magnets and peeling the mesh away. I remove the mesh just after the paint flashes dry but before it is absolutely set. Don't want it lifting at all.

It is definitely a unique way of doing things but it's worked well for me and especially on oddly shaped baits and swimbaits sections in particular which can be tough to airbrush sometimes because they blow away on you! lol

Brilliant !!!!

Thanks for sharing that with us.

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