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Posted 23 November 2008 - 01:54 AM
i hear the best way to thin D2T is denatured alcohal ? how far can you thin it before its to thin and weakens the mix and does it add much to the drying time?
Posted 23 November 2008 - 05:27 AM
I have done 15 drops to enough to cover 4 lures with no different effects.
Posted 23 November 2008 - 08:07 AM
When I called Devcon to speak to a product knowledge specialist, They told me if I had to thin it down. Use acetone only. Works for me. Trial and error for how much, But the less acetone you use the better.
Posted 23 November 2008 - 09:50 AM
Yep. Any alcohol will interfere with the reaction of the D2T. The reaction relies on oxygen and hydrogen, and alcohol is just about all hydrogen and oxygen, so something in the glue is getting robbed.
A 3:1 mix of MEK : toluene will work great. No reaction problems and it will level much better than straight acetone and much less likely to blush or cloud the finish.
Posted 23 November 2008 - 01:23 PM
You can thin D2T down to 50/50 and it will still level and cure out - but why would you, unless you're using it as a waterproof undercoating? For top coating, I mix 3-4 drops of thinner into enough epoxy to paint 2-3 bass lures. I've used denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner and acetone and have personally never been able to tell any difference in the end product in terms of durability, leveling or sheen. I haven't had coating failures with any of them. How long your brush time is extended depends on the solvent. DN is longest, LT shorter, acetone shortest. I only thin when I must to get the D2T to brush well in cool conditions.
Posted 24 November 2008 - 09:51 AM
I'm not trying to pirate this thread, but I would like some input on the sheen factor BobP mentioned. I find that jigs I coat with Dev2 have a nice sheen to them until you touch them. It's almost as if they were't dry. These had been coated several days prior with a light coating. Anyone have any thoughts on why this is occuring?
Posted 24 November 2008 - 03:50 PM
Mpashnt1, I've used D2T on quite a few jigs and never had the same problem as long as the epoxy was fully cured and hard. I switched to Dick Nite for jigging spoons because it was originally designed for that application and it's easy to use - just dip'em and hang'em. But you need to let Dick Nite cure for about a week to become really tough. It dries in a few hours but it takes days after that for the finish to moisture cure into a really tough coating. It has a higher sheen and is very clear, plus it's already thin consistency works well when dipping.
Posted 24 November 2008 - 04:34 PM
Sounds like either your porportions are off, it's not mixed thoroughly, or if you're thinning it with the wrong solvent, the reaction is getting robbed and not fully curing.
Posted 24 November 2008 - 07:23 PM
I should have mentioned I second coat with DN as well.
Posted 24 November 2008 - 07:55 PM
Does Dick nites react with airbrush paint? Some 1 part sealers have a bad reaction with paints.
Posted 24 November 2008 - 10:09 PM
I have had problems with it doing just that, that is why I use 2t first.
I have not been able to pin point it to certain colors , not worth it to me.
Others will say it is because you do not heat set it but to me that does not work, I guess just like anything else, what works for others does not always work for you
Posted 25 November 2008 - 01:26 AM
In my experience so far, Dick Nite doesn't react with dried airbrush acrylics. But if you put it on too thick, some of it can collect in one area on the lure and stay in liquid form after the overlying Dick Nite forms a skin. As the lure rotates on a rack, the liquid then runs back and forth under the skin and usually causes the paint to wrinkle. I dip lures in Dick Nite and let any excess thoroughly drip off before putting it on a rotating rack. For spoons, you can just dip it and hang it, no drama. You also need to let it dry/cure for about 24 hrs before applying another coat or the new coat can cause it to bubble.